Buenos Aires
Buenos Aires is one of South America’s most electrifying cities, graced with European architecture, atmospheric neighbourhoods and bustling nightlife. Buenos Aires is much more than just its glorious past and you will find an elegant shopper’s paradise and cosmopolitan centre. At Buenos Aires’ heart is its microcentro, which holds many of the city’s historical buildings and museums. To the north lies upper-crust Recoleta, with its famous cemetery, and park-filled Palermo, home to many great restaurants and bars. Down south is where the blue-collar class hangs: this includes the tango neighbourhood of San Telmo and colourful, roughhousing La Boca. There’s enough bustle in this city to keep you trotting around all day and all night. To see its cultural side, visit the Cathedral Metropolitana, the Teatro Colon (the world’s largest opera house), the Ambrosetti Museum, the Museum of Colonial History, the Basilica Lujan, Iglesia San Ignacio Church, and the Isaac Fernandez Blanco Museum of Spanish American Art. The old artists’ quarter of La Boca, is the original home of the tango and is located along a narrow wharf lined by meatpacking plants.
Yet every great metropolis has a poorer side. Cracked sidewalks, ubiquitous graffiti and rough edges – even in the wealthiest neighbourhoods – speak volumes about this city. Poverty and beggars exist, and there’s a deep melancholy here: an acknowledgement of Argentina’s riches coupled with the despair of not realizing its full potential.
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Plaza de Mayo
Surrounded by the Casa Rosada, the Cabildo and the city’s main cathedral, Plaza de Mayo is the place where Argentines gather in vehement protest or jubilant celebration. At the center is the Pirámide de Mayo, a white obelisk built to mark the first anniversary of independence from Spain.
If you happen to be here on Thursday at 3:30pm, you’ll see the Madres de la Plaza de Mayo gather and circle the pyramid, holding photographs of their missing children. These mothers of the ‘Disappeared’ (Argentines abducted by the state during the military dictatorship of 1976 to 1983) continue to march as a reminder of the past and for other social justice causes.

Casa Rosada
On the eastern side of Plaza de Mayo stands the Casa Rosada, named for its distinctive color. It was from the balcony here that Eva Perón famously addressed the throngs of impassioned supporters packed into Plaza de Mayo. The building houses the Argentine President’s offices; the presidential residence is in the suburb of Olivos, north of the center. Free hour-long guided tours are given at weekends and must be booked online in advance; bring ID.

Catedral Metropolitana
This cathedral was built on the site of the original colonial church and not finished until 1827. It’s a significant religious and architectural landmark, and carved above its triangular façade and neoclassical columns are bas-reliefs of Jacob and Joseph. The spacious interior is equally impressive, with baroque details and an elegant rococo altar. There’s a small museum dedicated to the cathedral’s history. For Pope Francis souvenirs, visit the small gift shop near the entrance.

Teatro Colón
This impressive seven-story building is one of BA’s most prominent landmarks. It’s the city’s main performing-arts venue and a world-class forum for opera, ballet and classical music, with astounding acoustics. Occupying an entire city block, the Colón can seat 2500 spectators and provide standing room for another 500. The theatre’s real beauty lies on the inside, so if you can’t get hold of tickets to a performance, take one of the frequent 50-minute backstage tours to view the stunning interior.

Centro Cultural Kirchner
It was former president Néstor Kirchner who, in 2005, first proposed turning the abandoned former central post office into a cultural center. He died in 2010 before the project was completed, but the breath-taking cultural center was named in his honour. Within the vast beaux-arts structure – which stands eight stories tall and takes up an entire city block – are multiple art galleries, events spaces and auditoriums. The highlight, however, is the Ballena Azul, a concert hall with world-class acoustics that seats 1800.

Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur
The beautifully marshy land of this 350-hectare nature reserve has become a popular site for weekend picnics, walks and bike rides. Bring binoculars if you’re a birder – over 300 bird species can be spotted, along with river turtles, iguanas and nutria. At the eastern shoreline of the reserve you can get a close-up view of the Río de la Plata’s muddy waters.
The park has a second entrance at the other end of the Costanera, from where free guided tours (in Spanish) depart at 9:30am and 4pm on Saturday and Sunday, November to March. From April to October tours depart at 10:30am and 3:30pm on Saturday and Sunday. Free night tours are also held one Friday per month (call for the latest schedule; reserve ahead).
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San Telmo
Full of charm and personality, San Telmo is one of BA’s most attractive neighbourhoods, with narrow cobbled streets and low-story colonial houses. This is where some of the first homes were built in the early years of the colony, and these elaborate mansions later became conventillos (tenement housing) for European immigrants. Amid the melancholy of homesickness and the merging of musical traditions in the shared patios of the conventillos, tango music was born. Take a walk around; history oozes from every corner of this barrio.
On Sundays, San Telmo’s main drag is closed to traffic and the street is a sea of both locals and tourists browsing craft stalls, waiting at vendors’ carts for freshly squeezed orange juice, poking through the antique glass ornaments on display on Plaza Dorrego, and listening to street performances by myriad music groups. It runs from Avenida San Juan to Plaza de Mayo. It’s a tight and crowded scene, so be prepared to bump into people, and watch your bag carefully.
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La Boca
Blue collar and raffish to the core, La Boca is very much a locals’ neighbourhood. Its colourful shanties are often portrayed as a symbol of Buenos Aires, while El Caminito is the barrio’s most famous street, full of art vendors, buskers and tango dancers twirling for your spare change.
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Recoleta
It’s easy to see how Buenos Aires could be called the Paris of the South in this grand neighbourhood. Recoleta is where the rich live in luxury apartments and mansions while spending their free time sipping coffee at elegant cafes and shopping in expensive boutiques. Full of lush parks, grand monuments, art galleries, French architecture and wide avenues, Recoleta is also famous for its cemetery.

Palermo
Palermo’s large, grassy parks – regally punctuated with grand monuments – are popular destinations on weekends, when families fill the shady lanes, cycle the bike paths and paddle on the peaceful lakes. The sub-neighbourhood of Palermo Viejo (itself subdivided into Soho and Hollywood) is home to dozens of restaurants, bars, nightclubs and shops, along with the city’s largest selection of boutique hotels.

Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires
Sparkling inside its glass walls, this airy modern art museum is one of BA’s most impressive. It displays the fine collection of Latin American art of millionaire and philanthropist Eduardo Costantini, including works by Argentines Xul Solar and Antonio Berni, as well as pieces by Mexicans Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo. The temporary exhibitions here are usually world class so it’s worth checking what’s currently on offer. A cinema screens art-house films.

Parque 3 de Febrero
Also known as Bosques de Palermo (Palermo Woods), this sweeping open parkland abounds with small lakes and pretty gazebos. Stands rent bikes and in-line skates, and joggers and power walkers circle the ponds – if you don’t have the energy to join them, lie back under a tree and people-watch. There’s also a monument to literary greats called El Jardín de los Poetas (the Garden of Poets), and the exquisite Rosedal (rose garden).

Tigre
About an hour north of Buenos Aires is this favourite porteño weekend destination. You can check out the popular riverfront, take a relaxing boat ride on the Delta del Paraná and shop at Mercado de Frutos (a daily crafts market that’s best on weekends).

San Antonio de Areco
Dating from the early 18th century, this serene village northwest of Buenos Aires is the symbolic center of Argentina’s diminishing gaucho (cowboy) culture. It’s also host to the country’s biggest gaucho celebration, Fiesta de la Tradición. There’s a cute plaza surrounded by historic buildings, while local artisans are known for producing maté paraphernalia, rastras (silver-studded belts) and facones (long-bladed knives).

Rosario
Located just a few hours north of Buenos Aires, Rosario is in many ways Argentina’s second city – not in terms of population, but culturally, financially and aesthetically. Its roaring port trade and growing population even made it a candidate for national capital status for a while. If you like the idea of Buenos Aires but find its sheer size and frenzy too much, Rosario might be the place for you. It has a growing backpacker scene and along with it's huge university population of students, artists and musicians it provide for a great vibe.
Rosario’s most attractive feature is its waterfront, where what was once derelict warehouses and train tracks has been reclaimed for the fun of the people. It stretches some 15km from its southern end at Parque Urquiza to the city’s northern edge, just short of the suspension bridge crossing into Entre Ríos province. It’s an appealing place to wander and watch what’s going on, from the plentiful birdlife and impromptu fútbol games to massive cargo ships surging past on the river.

Santa Fe

Paraná
Although less famous than Santa Fe, Paraná is, in many ways, a more attractive place. Built on the hilly banks of its namesake river, the historical center is largely intact, and the city boasts a couple of majestic plazas. As is the rule in this part of the world, fun seekers hit the riverbanks at night to choose from an array of restaurants, clubs and bars. Paraná is quiet midweek, but gets busy at weekends. Most of the action is at the eastern end of the riverfront around Liniers Lineal.

Parque Esteros del Iberá
Esteros del Iberá is a wildlife cornucopia comparable to Brazil’s Pantanal in Mato Grosso. Aquatic plants and grasses, including ‘floating islands,’ dominate this wetlands wilderness covering 13,000 sq km. The most notable wildlife species are reptiles such as the caiman and anaconda, mammals such as the maned wolf, howler monkey, neotropical otter, capybara, and pampas and swamp deer, as well as more than 350 bird species.
Bird-watchers and nature nuts from all over the world converge on the village of Colonia Pellegrini, which is 120km northeast of Mercedes, to take advantage of the ease of access to the park (Colonia Pellegrini lies within the park’s boundaries). It’s a charming enough place in its own right: dirt roads, little traffic and plenty of trees. There’s a visitors center across the causeway from Colonia Pellegrini with information on the reserve and a couple of short self-guided walking trails.
Many hotel operators in Mercedes (the gateway town) will try to railroad you into buying a package tour with tales of overbooking, closed hotels and so on. If you want to book ahead and go all-inclusive, fine, but there’s really no need to panic – there are way more beds available than there will ever be tourists and it’s easy (and much cheaper) to organize your room, food and tours on the spot. The tourist office in Colonia Pellegrini has a complete list of accommodations and eateries in town.
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Yapeyú
This delightfully peaceful place is no one-horse town: there are many horses, and the sound of their hooves thumping the reddish earth in the evening is one of the nicest things about it. Yapeyú is a great spot to relax with its tree-filled plaza and quiet grassy riverfront. It’s the sort of place where locals will greet you on the street.
An hour north of Paso de los Libres by bus, Yapeyú was founded in 1626 as the southernmost of the Jesuit missions. It’s also famous for being the birthplace of the great Argentine ‘Liberator,’ José de San Martín.
You can examine the Jesuit ruins – the Museo de la Cultura Jesuítica here has a comprehensive overview of all the missions – and admire the ornate Casa de San Martín, a pavilion that now shelters the ruins of the house where San Martín was born in 1778.

Corrientes
Stately Corrientes sits below the confluence of the Paraná and Paraguay rivers, just across the water from its twin city, Resistencia. One of the nation’s most venerable cities, it has elegant balconied buildings dating from the turn of the 20th century that lend a timeworn appeal to its colourful streets. The costanera is everybody’s destination of choice for strolling, eating ice creams, jogging or sipping maté with friends.

Resistencia
This provincial capital is perched on the edge of the barely populated Chaco, northern Argentina’s ‘outback.’ It isn’t the most likely candidate for the garland of artistic center of the north, yet its streets are studded with several hundred sculptures and there’s a strong boho-cultural streak that represents a complete contrast to the tough cattle-and-scrub solitudes that characterize the province.
At last count, more than 650 sculptures graced the city, a number that increases with every Bienal. The streets are packed with them, especially around the plaza and north up Avenida Sarmiento. Every Bienal, a brochure is printed with a sculpture walking tour around the city. Locals can buy pieces at a symbolic cost, but they have to display them streetside.
Download the CulturApp Resistencia app for smartphones for a self-guided tour of the artworks.

Posadas
Capital of Misiones, and a base for visiting the Jesuit ruins after which the province is named, Posadas is a modern city that gazes across the wide Río Paraná to Encarnación in Paraguay. It’s a stopover on the way north, and though it offers few in-town sights, it has a pleasant riverbank and an enjoyable vibe. The Jesuit missions are the area’s big attraction in Posadas.
In the afternoon, the costanera comes alive with joggers, cyclists, dog walkers, mate sippers, hot-dog vendors and young couples staring at Paraguay across the water. Pride of place goes to ‘Andresito,’ a huge stainless-steel sculpture of Guaraní provincial strongman Andrés Guazurary.

San Ignacio
A mellow little town between Posadas and Puerto Iguazú, San Ignacio attracts most visitors for the large, well-preserved ruins of the Jesuit mission that gives the town its name. If you’re staying here and have some time to kill, it’s also well worth checking out the Casa de Quiroga. If you’re just passing through, you can leave your bags in the ticket office at the bus terminal while you check out the ruins.

Puerto Iguazú
At the end of the road in Argentina, Puerto Iguazú sits at the confluence of the Ríos Paraná and Iguazú and looks across to Brazil and Paraguay. There’s little feeling of community: everyone is here to see the falls or to make a buck out of them, and planning laws seem nonexistent as hotels go up on every street. Still, it’s not unattractive and is quiet, safe and has good transportation connections; there are also many excellent places to stay and eat.

Parque Nacional Iguazú
Guaraní legend says that Iguazú Falls originated when a jealous forest god, enraged by a warrior escaping downriver by canoe with a young maiden, caused the riverbed to collapse in front of the lovers, producing precipitous falls over which the maiden fell and, at their base, turned into a rock. The warrior survived as a tree overlooking his fallen lover. The geological origins of the falls are more prosaic. In southern Brazil, the Río Iguazú passes over a basalt plateau that ends just above its confluence with the Paraná. Before reaching the edge, the river divides into many channels to form several distinctive cataratas (cataracts).
The power, size and sheer noise of Iguazú Falls have to be experienced to be believed. If possible, try coming early, or later in the day (tour groups tend to leave by 3pm), but you’re unlikely ever to have the place to yourself. The most awesome part is the semi-circular Garganta del Diablo, a deafening and dampening part of the experience, approached by launch and via a system of pasarelas (catwalks). If you’ve got the time (and the money for a visa), it’s worth checking out the Brazilian side of the falls too, for a few different angles, plus the grand overview.
Before seeing Iguazú Falls themselves, grab a map, look around the museum, and climb the nearby tower for a good overall view. Plan hikes before the mid-morning tour-bus invasion. Descending from the visitors center, you can cross by free launch to Isla San Martín, which offers unique views and a refuge from the masses on the mainland.
Several pasarelas give good views of smaller falls and, in the distance, the Garganta del Diablo. A train from the visitors center operates regularly to shuttle visitors from site to site. At the last stop, follow the trail to the lookout perched right on the edge of the mighty falls.
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Cordoba
Unlike Buenos Aires, Cordoba has preserved much of its colonial character. Cordoba is everything it should be – vibrant, fun, manageable in size and (in places) gorgeous to look - it has music, theatre, film, dance: whatever you want, you can be pretty sure it’s going on somewhere in town. Alta Gracia, 35 km southwest of the city, is one of the best-known places dotted with colonial hermitages and churches.

Jesús María
After losing their operating funds to pirates off the coast of Brazil, the Jesuits produced and sold wine from Jesús María to support their university in colonial Córdoba. The town is located 51km north of Córdoba via RN 9.
If you’re only planning on seeing one Jesuit mission, Museo Jesuítico Nacional de Jesús María should probably be it. Easily accessed, but in a peaceful rural setting, it’s been wonderfully preserved and restored, and is crammed full of artefacts.

Alta Gracia
Only 35km southwest of Córdoba, the colonial mountain town of Alta Gracia is steeped in history. Its illustrious residents have ranged from Jesuit pioneers to Viceroy Santiago de Liniers, Spanish composer Manuel de Falla and revolutionary Ernesto ‘Che’ Guevara.

La Rioja
Encircled by the Sierra de Velasco’s graceful peaks, La Rioja is quite a sight on a sunny day. And there are plenty of those: summer temperatures rise sky-high in this quiet, out-of-the-way, yet affluent provincial capital dotted with palm trees. It’s an understated but quite charming place; even if you’re on a short highlights tour, you might consider stopping off (it’s halfway between Mendoza and Salta) to take a tour to Parque Nacional Talampaya and Parque Provincial Ischigualasto.

Santiago del Estero
Placid, hot Santiago enjoys the distinction ‘Madre de Ciudades’ (Mother of Cities). Founded in 1553, this was the first Spanish urban settlement in what is now Argentina. Sadly, it boasts no architectural heritage from that period, but still makes a pleasant stop.

Tucumán
A big city with a small-town feel, Tucumán is definitely improving in terms of the backpacking scene. There are some good hostels, a pumping nightlife and some excellent adventures to be had in the surrounding hills. Independence Day (July 9) celebrations are especially vigorous in Tucumán, which hosted the congress that declared Argentine independence in 1816.

Tafí del Valle
Set in a pretty valley overlooking a lake, Tafí is where folks from Tucumán come to escape the heat in summer months. In the low season it’s much mellower (which isn’t to imply that there’s any sort of frenzy here in summertime), but still gorgeous, and makes a good base for exploring the surrounding countryside and nearby ruins at Quilmes.
One of the best day trips you can do from Tafí del Valle needs no guide at all. Rent a bike, and coast downhill past the lake and out onto the road to Tucumán. It’s a 40km (mostly) downhill cruise, following the course of the Río Los Sosa, with hundreds of gorgeous swimming holes and picnic spots right by the roadside. Once you lose sight of the river and houses start appearing, you know the best part of the ride is over. You can hail any Tafí-bound bus (make sure you choose a safe place for them to pull over), stash your bike underneath and ride home in style. There’s no food or water anywhere along this route, so come prepared. And check your brakes before leaving, too – you’ll definitely be using them.
At pretty El Mollar, at the other end of the valley from Tafí, you can visit the Parque de los Menhires on the plaza, where there is a collection of more than 100 carved standing stones, found in the surrounding area. They were produced by the Tafí culture some 2000 years ago.

Cafayate
Set at the entrance to the Quebrada de Cafayate, 1600m above sea level and surrounded by some of the country’s best vineyards, Cafayate provides the opportunity to indulge in two of life’s great pleasures: drinking wine and exploring nature. If you’re pressed for time, you can combine the two and take a bottle out into the quebrada (gorge) with you, in which case we would recommend a local torrontés (dry white wine), provided you can keep it chilled.
From 25 de Mayo, two blocks south of Colón, a 5km walk southwest leads you to the Río Colorado. Follow the river upstream for about two hours to get to a 10m waterfall, where you can swim. Look out for hidden rock paintings on the way (for a couple of pesos, local children will guide you).

Quebrada de Cafayate
From Cafayate, RN 68 slices through the Martian-like landscape of the Quebrada de Cafayate on its way to Salta. About 50km north of Cafayate, the eastern Sierra de Carahuasi is the backdrop for distinctive sandstone landforms such as the Garganta del Diablo (Devil’s Throat), El Anfiteatro (Amphitheater), El Sapo (Toad), El Fraile (Friar), El Obelisco (Obelisk) and Los Castillos (Castles).
Other than car rental or organized tours, the best way to see the quebrada is by bike or on foot. Bring plenty of water and go in the morning, as unpleasant, strong winds kick up in the afternoon. At Cafayate, cyclists can load their bikes onto any bus heading to Salta and disembark at the impressive box canyon of Garganta del Diablo. From here, the 50-odd kilometres back to Cafayate can be biked in about four hours, but it’s too far on foot. When you’ve had enough, walkers should simply hail down another bus on its way back to Cafayate.

Cachi
Cachi is a spectacularly beautiful town and by far the most visually impressive of those along the Valles Calchaquíes. There’s not a whole lot to do here, but that’s all part of the charm. The tourist office is in the municipal building on the plaza. They have an atrocious city map but good info on hotels and attractions.

Ruinas de los Quilmes
This pre-Hispanic pucará (indigenous Andean fortification; adult/child AR$70/free; h8am-6pm) in Tucumán province, 50km south of Cafayate, is Argentina’s most extensive preserved ruin. Dating from about AD 1000, this complex urban settlement covered about 30 hectares and housed perhap. 5000 people. The Quilmes people abided contact with the Incas but could not outlast the Spaniards, who, in 1667, deported the last 2000 to Buenos Aires.
Quilmes’ thick walls underscore its defensive functions, but evidence of dense occupation sprawls north and south of the nucleus.
Buses from Cafayate to Santa María pass the Quilmes junction; from there, it’s 5km to the ruins.

Salta
Salta has experienced a huge surge in popularity as a backpacking destination over the last few years, and rightly so – the setting’s gorgeous, the hostels are attractive, the nightlife pumps and there’s plenty to do in and around town.

Jujuy
If you’re heading north, Jujuy is where you start to feel the proximity to Bolivia. You see it in people’s faces, the chaotic street scenes, the markets that spill out onto sidewalks, and the restaurant menus that offer locro, humitas and sopa de maní (spicy peanut soup) as a matter of course, rather than as ‘regional specialties.’

Quebrada de Humahuaca
North of Jujuy, RN 9 snakes its way through the Quebrada de Humahuaca, a painter’s palette of colour on barren hillsides, dwarfing hamlets where Quechua peasants scratch a living growing maize and raising scrawny livestock. On this colonial post route to Potosí, the architecture and other cultural features mirror Peru and Bolivia.
Earthquakes levelled many of the adobe churches, but they were often rebuilt in the 17th and 18th centuries with solid walls, simple bell towers, and striking doors and wood panelling from the cardón cactus.

Tilcara
The most comfortable of the Quebrada towns, Tilcara is also one of the prettiest, and it hosts a number of fine eating and sleeping options.
Tilcara’s hilltop pucará, a pre-Hispanic fortress with unobstructed views, is its most conspicuous attraction, but the village’s museums and its reputation as an artists’ colony help make it an appealing stopover.

Humahuaca
A popular stopover on the Salta–Bolivia route, Humahuaca is a mostly Quechuan village of narrow cobbled streets lined with adobe houses. There’s plenty to do in the surrounding countryside, and the town provides some great photo opportunities.
Built in 1641, Humahuaca’s Iglesia de la Candelaria faces Plaza Gómez. Nearby, the lovably knobbly cabildo (Plaza Gómez) is famous for its clock tower, where a life-size figure of San Francisco Solano emerges at noon to deliver a benediction. From the plaza, a staircase climbs to the rather vulgar Monumento a la Independencia.

Mar del Plata
Located approximately 400km from Buenos Aires, Mar del Plata is the main tourist resort on the Atlantic coast. Often referred to as 'Mardel', Mar del Plata's sandy beaches attract thousands of visitors during the December to March season.
Mar del Plata is one of Argentina’s most important fishing centers. Its port area, 8km south of the city center, is worth a visit, though public access to the jetty – and its graveyard of ruined ships, half-sunken and rusting in the sun – is now restricted. You can still watch the fishing boats come and go from the Banquina de Pescadores, the port’s scenic, rather aromatic and slightly touristy wharf.

Villa Gesell
This laid-back dune community sleeps in the low season, but in summer it’s a favourite for young porteños, who stream in to party the warm nights away. It’s one of the prettiest coastal towns: small, with windy, sandy roads sporting charming summer cottages (and also grander retreats). Gesell’s long beach and boardwalk draw swimmers, sunbathers and horse riders. There’s year-round fishing from the pier.

Partido de Pinamar
Rivalling Uruguay’s Punta del Este in the fashion stakes, Pinamar and the surrounding towns are where wealthy Argentine families come to play in summertime.
Many places are only open on weekends and in summer, but at other times you can stroll peacefully in bordering pine forests and along the wide, attractive beach without being trampled by vacationers.

Bahía Blanca
Mostly a stopover point for people headed elsewhere, Bahía Blanca is surprisingly cosmopolitan for its size, and boasts Argentina’s worst-signposted museum.

Sierra de la Ventana
Sierra de la Ventana is where porteños come to escape the summer heat, hike around a bit and cool off in swimming holes. The nearby mountain range of the same name in Parque Provincial Ernesto Tornquist attracts hikers and climbers to its jagged peaks, which rise over 1300m.
For a nice walk, go to the end of Calle Tornquist and cross the small dam (which makes a local swimming hole). On the other side you’ll see Cerro del Amor; hike to the top for good views of town and pampas.
There are several free campsites along the river, with bathroom facilities nearby at the pleasant and grassy municipal swimming pool. Some restaurants close one or more days per week outside the December to March summer months. Self-caterers will find several supermarkets and artisanal food shops on the main street.

Mendoza, Argentina
The Mendoza Province is Argentina's main wine-producing region and the annual grape harvest festival, the “Fiesta Nacional de la Venimia”, is held at the end of February and the beginning of March. The Andes mountain ranges can be seen in the distance from many parts of the city, whose universities, museums, theatres and art galleries testify to lively cultural life.

San Luis
San Luis is coming up as a backpacking destination, but it still has a long way to go. Most people come here to visit the nearby Parque Nacional Sierra de las Quijadas. The commercial center is along the parallel streets of San Martín and Rivadavia, between Plaza Pringles in the north and Plaza Independencia to the south.

Mendoza
After the devastating 1861 earthquake levelled most of Mendoza, rebuilding efforts created some of the city’s most-loved aspects: the authorities anticipated (somewhat pessimistically) the next earthquake by rebuilding the city with wide avenues (for the rubble to fall into) and spacious plazas (to use as evacuation points). The result is one of Argentina’s most seductive cities – stunningly picturesque and a joy to walk around.
Add to this the fact that it’s smack in the middle of many of the country’s best vineyards and that it’s the base for any number of outdoor activities, and you know you’ll be spending more than a couple of days here.
Mendoza’s famous Fiesta Nacional de la Vendimia (www.vendimia.mendoza.gov.ar) attracts big crowds; book accommodation well ahead. The surrounding countryside offers wine tasting, mountaineering, cycling and white-water rafting. Many different tours of the area are available.

Uspallata
In an exceptionally beautiful valley surrounded by polychrome mountains, 105km west of Mendoza at an altitude of 1751m, this crossroads village along RN 7 is a good base for exploring the surrounding area.
An easy 8km walk (or an easier drive) north of town brings you to Cerro Tunduqueral, where you’ll find sweeping views and Inca rock carvings; Seven Years in Tibet scenes were shot here.

San Juan
Life in this provincial capital with long, shaded avenues moves at its own pace, and the locals are humbly proud of their little town. In 1944 a massive earthquake destroyed the city center, killing more than 10,000 people – Juan Perón’s subsequent relief efforts are what first made him a national figure.
No slouch on the wine-production front, San Juan’s wineries are refreshingly low-key compared to the Mendoza bustle, and the province’s other attractions are all within easy reach of the capital.

San Agustín de Valle Fértil
This relaxed, green little village is 250km northeast of San Juan and set amid colourful hills and rivers. It relies on farming, animal husbandry, mining and tourism. Visitors to Parques Ischigualasto and Talampaya use San Agustín as a base, and there are also nearby petroglyphs and the Río Seco to explore.

Parque Provincial Ischigualasto
At every meander in the canyon of Parque Provincial Ischigualasto, a desert valley between sedimentary mountain ranges, the intermittent waters of the Río Ischigualasto have exposed a wealth of Triassic fossils and dinosaur bones – up to 180 million years old – and carved distinctive shapes in the monochrome clays, red sandstone and volcanic ash. The desert flora of algarrobo trees, shrubs and cacti complement the eerie moonscape, and common fauna include guanacos, condors, Patagonian hares and foxes.
Camping is (unofficially) permitted at the visitors center near the entrance, which also has a confitería with simple meals and cold drinks. There are toilets and showers, but water shortages are frequent and there’s no shade.
Ischigualasto is about 80km north of San Agustín. Given its size and isolation, the only practical way to visit the park is by vehicle. After you pay the entrance fee, a ranger will accompany your vehicle on a two- or three-hour circuit over the park’s unpaved roads, which may be impassable after rain.
If you have no transportation, ask the San Agustín tourist office about tours or hiring a car and driver, or contact the park. Tour operators in San Juan do tours here, but it’s way cheaper to make your own way to San Agustín and line something up there. Some tours can be combined with Parque Nacional Talampaya, almost 100km northeast of Ischigualasto.

Malargüe
From precolonial times, the Pehuenche people hunted and gathered in the valley of Malargüe, but the advance of European agricultural colonists dispossessed the original inhabitants of their land. Today petroleum is a principal industry, but Malargüe, 400km south of Mendoza, is also a year-round outdoor activity center: Las Leñas offers Argentina’s best skiing, and there are archeological sites and fauna reserves nearby, plus organized caving possibilities.

Las Leñas
Wealthy Argentines and foreigners alike come to Las Leñas (www.laslenas.com), the country’s most prestigious ski resort, to look dazzling zooming down the slopes and then spend nights partying until the sun peeks over the snowy mountains.
Outside the ski season Las Leñas is also attempting to attract summer visitors who enjoy weeklong packages, offering activities such as mountain biking, horseback riding and hiking.
Only 70km from Malargüe, Las Leñas has 33 runs; slopes reach a peak of 3430m, with a maximum drop of 1230m. Prices for lift tickets can vary considerably throughout the ski season, depending how long you’re staying.

Nahuel Huapi National Park
Nahuel Huapi National Park contains the huge Nahuel Huapi Lake that stretches over 100 km to the border with Chile. Rent a car and drive south through spectacular scenery, passing the shores of three lakes, to El Bolsón, 130km from Bariloche, known for its hops and fruit orchards. The wildlife and desert scenery of Peninsula Valdez in the Patagonian coast attracts visitors from all over the world.
The 65km Circuito Chico loop is a popular excursion. Every 20 minutes, bus 20 (from San Martín and Morales in Bariloche) heads along Lago Nahuel Huapi to end at Puerto Pañuelo, where boat trips leave a few times daily for beautiful Puerto Blest, touristy Isla Victoria and pretty Península Quetrihué. Bus 10 goes the other way, inland via Colonia Suiza (a small, woodsy Swiss community), and ends at Bahía López, where you can hike a short way to the tip of the peninsula Brazo de la Tristeza. In summer, bus 11 does the whole Circuito, connecting Puerto Pañuelos with Bahía López, but in winter you can walk the 8km stretch along the sleepy highway, with much of that being on a woodsy nature trail. There’s a beautiful two-hour side hike to Villa Tacul, on the shores of Lago Nahuel Huapi. It’s best to walk from Bahía López to Puerto Pañuelos rather than the other way around, since many more buses head back to Bariloche from Pañuelos. Be sure to confirm bus schedules in Bariloche’s tourist office, as schedules vary from season to season.

Neuquén
Neuquén is a provincial capital nestled in the confluence of two rivers, the Limay and the Neuquén. It’s the gateway to Patagonia and the Andean Lake District, as well as an important commercial and agricultural center. Neuquén isn’t a major tourist magnet, but it isn’t unpleasant either – and if you’re interested in palaeontology, bones of the largest dinosaurs have been found in the surrounding countryside.
Neuquén province has one of the world’s richest concentrations of dinosaur bones, along with a couple of dinosaur museums highlighting gigantic specimens. A few hints: Plaza Huincul, Villa El Chocón and Centro Paleontológico Lago Barreales are all within a few hours’ drive. The greater region also boasts lakes, a few bodegas (wineries), a notable bird sanctuary and some world-class fishing.

Junín de los Andes
Cute and pleasant, Junín proclaims itself Argentina’s ‘trout capital’ – and there are indeed some beautiful, trout-filled rivers in the area. It’s a tranquil and slow-paced hamlet on the beautiful Río Chimehuín, 42km north of San Martín de los Andes. There’s nothing much to do besides wander around, explore the river or mountains and visit gorgeous Parque Nacional Lanín. If you’re into churches, visit the cathedral’s Christ figure, who sports a Mapuche visage.
Situated about 2km from the center of Junín de los Andes, near the end of Av Antártida Argentina, Vía Cristi contains a collection of 22 sculptures, bas-reliefs and mosaics as it winds its way up Cerro de la Cruz and vividly depicting the Conquest of the Desert, Mapuche legends, Christian themes and indigenous history.

Parque Nacional Lanín
At 3776m, snow-capped Volcán Lanín is the dominating centrepiece of this tranquil national park where extensive stands of lenga (southern beech) and the curious monkey puzzle tree flourish. Pleistocene glaciers left behind blue finger-shaped lakes, excellent for fishing and camping. For more information and maps, contact the National Park Office in Junín or San Martín. In summer (January and February) Lago Huechulafquen is easily accessible from Junín; there are outstanding views of Volcán Lanín and several worthwhile hikes.

San Martín de los Andes
Attractive San Martín is a small, fashionable destination crowded with rowdy Argentines in summer. Nestled between two verdant mountains on the shores of Lago Lácar, the town boasts many wood and stone chalet-style buildings, many of them chocolate shops, ice-cream stores and souvenir boutiques. But behind the touristy streets lie pleasant residential neighbourhoods with pretty rose-filled gardens, and the surrounding area has wonderful forested trails perfect for hiking and biking.
The 2.5km steep, dusty hike to Mirador Bandurrias ends with awesome views of Lago Lácar; be sure to take a snack or lunch. Tough cyclists can rent bikes at several shops in town and reach the mirador (lookout) in about an hour via dirt roads. Playa la Islita is a pleasant little beach located 2.5km further from the mirador.

Villa La Angostura
Villa la Angostura is a darling chocolate-box town that takes its name from the angosta (narrow) 91m neck of land connecting it to the striking Península Quetrihué. There’s no doubt that Villa is touristy, but it’s also charming; wood-and-stone alpine buildings line the three-block-long main street. There’s skiing at nearby Cerro Bayo in winter.
El Cruce is the main part of town and contains the bus terminal and most hotels and businesses; the main street is Arrayanes. Woodsy La Villa, with a few restaurants, hotels and a nice beach, is 3km southwest and on the shores of Lago Nahuel Huapi.
From the El Cruce part of town, a 3km walk north takes you to the Mirador Belvedere trailhead; hike another 30 minutes for good views. Nearby is Cascada Inayacal, a 50m waterfall, and a few hours’ hike further on is Cajón Negro, a pretty valley; get a map and directions from the tourist office before you set out, as trails and shortcuts around here can be confusing.

Bariloche
The Argentine Lake District’s largest city, San Carlos de Bariloche attracts scores of travelers in both summer and winter. It’s beautifully located on the shores of beautiful Lago Nahuel Huapi, and lofty mountain peaks are visible from all around. While Bariloche’s center bustles with tourists shopping at myriad chocolate shops, souvenir stores and trendy boutiques, the real attractions lie outside the city. Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi offers spectacular hiking, and there’s also great camping, trekking, rafting, fishing and skiing in the area. Despite the heavy touristy feel, Bariloche is a good place to stop, hang out, get errands done and, of course, have some fun.
The heart of town is the Centro Cívico, a group of well-kept public buildings built of log and stone; architect Ezequiel Bustillo originally adapted Middle European styles into this form of architecture, now associated with the Lake District area).

El Bolsón
Located about 120km south of Bariloche, nondescript El Bolsón is surrounded by dramatically jagged mountain peaks. Its economic prosperity comes from a warm microclimate and fertile soil, both of which support a cadre of organic farms devoted to hops, cheese, soft fruits such as raspberries, and orchards. This, and El Bolsón’s true personality, can be seen at its famous Feria Artesanal, where creative crafts – everything from wooden cutting boards and handcrafted mate gourds to jewellery, flutes and marionettes – and local food items are sold.
- On a ridge 7km west of town is Cabeza del Indio (off RN 40; 8am-6pm), a rock outcrop resembling a man’s profile; the trail has great views of the Río Azul and Lago Puelo. There is also a waterfall (off RN 40; 8am-6pm) about 10km north of town. These are all most accessible by bus in January and February.
- A good three-hour hike reaches the narrow canyon of pretty Cajón del Azul. At the end is a friendly refugio where you can eat or stay for the night. From where the town buses drop you off, it’s a 15-minute steep, dusty walk to the Cajón del Azul trailhead.
- About 18km south of El Bolsón is windy Parque Nacional Lago Puelo. You can camp, swim, fish, hike or take a boat tour to the Chilean border. In summer, regular buses run from El Bolsón.

Esquel
If you tire of the gnome-in-the-chocolate-shop ambience of Bariloche and other cutesy Lake District destinations, regular old Esquel will feel like a breath of fresh air. Set in western Chubut province’s dramatic, hikeable foothills, Esquel is a hub for Parque Nacional Los Alerces and an easygoing, friendly base camp for abundant adventure activities. It’s the perfect place to chill after hard travel on RN40.

Parque Nacional Los Alerces
Just 33km west of Esquel, this collection of spry creeks, verdant mountains and mirror lakes resonates as unadulterated Andes. The real attraction of the park, however, is the alerce tree (Fitzroya cupressoides), one of the longest-living species on the planet, with specimens that have survived up to 4000 years. Lured by the acclaim of well-known parks to the north and south, most hikers miss this gem, which makes your visit here all the more enjoyable.
The receding glaciers of Los Alerces’ peaks, which barely reach 2300m, have left nearly pristine lakes and streams with charming vistas and excellent fishing. Westerly storms drop nearly 3000mm of rain annually, but summers are mild and the park’s eastern zone is much drier.
A popular five-hour boat tour sails from Puerto Chucao (on Lago Menéndez) and heads to El Alerzal, an accessible stand of rare alerces. A one-hour-plus stopover permits a walk around a loop trail that passes Lago Cisne and an attractive waterfall to end up at El Abuelo (Grandfather), a 57m-tall, 2600-year-old alerce.
Los Alerces has several full-service campgrounds, all of which have showers, grocery stores and restaurants on-site or nearby. Free (no services) and semi-organized campgrounds exist near most of these fee sites. Lago Krüger, reached by foot (17km, 12 hours) or taxi boat from near Villa Futalaufquen, has a campground, restaurant and expensive hostería. See Esquel’s tourist office for a complete list of accommodation options.

Puerto Madryn
The gateway to Península Valdés, Puerto Madryn bustles with tourism and industry. It retains a few small-town touches: the radio announces lost dogs, and locals are welcoming and unhurried. With summer temperatures matching those of Buenos Aires, Madryn holds its own as a modest beach destination, but from June to mid-December the visiting right whales take center stage.

Reserva Faunística Península Valdés
Home to sea lions, elephant seals, guanacos, rheas, Magellanic penguins and numerous seabirds, Unesco World Heritage site Reserva Faunística Península Valdés is one of South America’s finest wildlife reserves. More than 80,000 people each year visit this sanctuary, which has a total area of 3600 sq km and more than 400km of coastline. The wildlife viewing is truly exceptional, though the undisputed main attraction is the endangered ballena franca austral (southern right whale). The warmer, more enclosed waters along the gulf become prime breeding zones for right whales between June and mid-December.
As you enter the sanctuary you’ll pass the thin 5km neck of the peninsula. Squint northwards for a glimpse of Isla de los Pájaros. Watch for salt flats Salina Grande and Salina Chico (42m below sea level) – South America’s lowest spots. Caleta Valdés is a bay sheltered by a long gravel spit and favoured by elephant seals. Just north of here lives a substantial colony of burrowing Magellanic penguins. At Punta Norte a mixed group of sea lions and elephant seals snoozes, with the occasional orca pod patrolling.
The hub is Puerto Pirámides, a sandy, shrubby, one-street town that’s home to around 500 souls. You can stay here to be closer to wildlife attractions. Services are minimal: there’s only one ATM in town (which may not work) and no car rentals. Scuba diving, horseback riding and mountain biking tours are available. Boat tours outside whale-watching season aren’t really worth it unless you adore shorebirds and sea lions, though there’s a chance of seeing dolphins.

Trelew
Though steeped in Welsh heritage, Trelew isn’t a postcard city. In fact, this uneventful midsized hub may be convenient to many attractions, but it’s home to few. Trelew is the region’s commercial center and a good base for visiting the Welsh villages of Gaiman and Dolavon. Also worthwhile is the top-notch dinosaur museum.

Gaiman
For a taste of Wales in Patagonia, head 17km west of Trelew to Gaiman. The streets are calm and wide and the buildings are nondescript and low; on hot days the local boys swim in the nearby river. The real reason travellers visit Gaiman, however, is to down pastries and cakes at one of several good Welsh teahouses.

Área Natural Protegida Punta Tombo
Continental South America’s largest penguin nesting ground, Área Natural Protegida Punta Tombo 8am-6pm Sep-Apr) has a colony of more than half a million Magellanic penguins and attracts king and rock cormorants, giant petrels, kelp gulls, flightless steamer ducks and black oystercatchers. Rangers accompany visitors on rookery visits.

Comodoro Rivadavia
Surrounded by dry hills of drilling rigs, oil tanks and wind-energy farms, tourism in the dusty port of Comodoro usually means little more than a bus transfer. What this modern, hardworking city does provide is a gateway to nearby attractions with decent services (cue Walmart). Hotels can be expensive.

Los Antiguos
Situated on the windy shores of Lago Buenos Aires, the agricultural oasis of Los Antiguos is home to chacras (small independent farms) of cherries, strawberries, apples, apricots and peaches. It makes an attractive crossing to Chile, and getting here via RN40 can be an adventure in itself.

El Chaltén
This colourful village overlooks the stunning northern sector of Parque Nacional Los Glaciares. Every summer thousands of trekkers come to explore the world-class trails under the toothy spires of the Fitz Roy range. Climbers from around the world make their bid to summit the premier peak Cerro Fitz Roy (3441m), among others. Pack for wind, rain and cold temperatures even in summer, when views of the peaks can be obscured. If the sun is out, however, El Chaltén is an outdoor-lover’s paradise.
Note that El Chaltén is within national park boundaries, meaning rules regarding fires and washing distances from rivers must be followed. The area’s river waters are potable without filtration – help keep them clean. El Chaltén mostly shuts down from April to October.

El Calafate
Named for the berry that, once you eat it, guarantees your return to Patagonia, El Calafate hooks you with another irresistible attraction: Glaciar Perito Moreno, 80km away in Parque Nacional Los Glaciares. The glacier is a magnificent must-see, but its massive popularity has encouraged huge growth and rapid upscaling in once-quaint El Calafate. However, it’s still a fun place to be and there’s a range of traveller services available. The city’s strategic location between El Chaltén and Torres del Paine (Chile) makes it an inevitable stop for those in transit.

Parque Nacional Los Glaciares
Few glaciers can match the suspense and excitement of the blue-hued Glaciar Perito Moreno. Its jagged ice peaks shear off and crash with huge splashes and thunderous rifle-cracks, birthing small tidal waves and large bobbing icebergs – all while your neck hairs rise a-tingling. The highlight of Parque Nacional Los Glaciares, the Glaciar Perito Moreno measures 35km long, 5km wide and 60m high, constantly dropping chunks of ice off its face. While most of the world’s glaciers are receding, Perito Moreno is considered ‘stable.’ And every once in a while, part of its facade advances far enough to reach the Península de Magallanes to dam the Brazo Rico arm of Lago Argentino. This causes tremendous pressure to build up, and after a few years a river cuts through the dam and eventually collapses it – with spectacular results.
The Glaciar Perito Moreno was born to be a tourist attraction. The Península de Magallanes is close enough to the glacier to provide glorious panoramas, but far enough away to be safe. A long series of catwalks and platforms gives everyone a great view. It’s worth spending several hours just looking at the glacier (or condors above) and waiting for the next great calving.

Río Gallegos
Hardly a destination for tourists, Río Gallegos is a coal-shipping, oil-refining and wool raising hub. It’s a busy port with few merits for travellers, though some of the continent’s best fly-fishing is nearby. Traveller services are good, but most visitors zip through en route to El Calafate, Puerto Natales or Ushuaia.

Ushuaia
A busy port and adventure hub, Ushuaia is a sliver of steep streets and jumbled buildings below the snow-capped Martial Range. Here the Andes meet the southern ocean in a sharp skid, making way for the city before reaching a sea of lapping currents.
It’s a location matched by few, and chest-beating Ushuaia takes full advantage of its end-of-the-world status as an increasing number of Antarctica-bound vessels call in to port. Its endless mercantile hustle knows no irony: the souvenir shop named for Jimmy Button (a native kidnapped for show in England), the ski center named for a destructive invasive species…you get the idea. That said, with a pint of the world’s southernmost microbrew in hand, you can happily plot the dazzling outdoor options: hiking, sailing, skiing, kayaking and even scuba diving are just minutes from town.

Parque Nacional Tierra Del Fuego
12km west of Ushuaia lies beautiful Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego, which extends from the Beagle Channel in the south to beyond Lago Fagnano in the north. Only a small part of the park is accessible to the public, and despite a tiny system of short trails, the views along the bays, rivers and forests are wonderfully scenic. Keep your eyes peeled for cauquén (upland geese), cormorants and grebes. Commonly seen European rabbit and North American beaver are introduced species that have wreaked havoc on the ecosystem. Foxes and the occasional guanaco might visit, while marine mammals are most common on offshore islands.
For information on the park’s walks, get a map from the tourist office or National Parks Office in Ushuaia.