Geghard Monastery
Carved from the rock face of the Azat River Gorge Geghard Monastery makes for Armenia's most dramatic sight.
Named after the lance that pierced Christ’s side at the crucifixion (a shard is now on display at the museum in Etchmiadzin), this World Heritage–listed monastery is carved out of a cliff alongside the Azat River Gorge. Founded in the 4th century, the monastery’s oldest chapel dates back to the 12th century and its tremendously atmospheric Surp Astvatsatsin (Holy Mother of God Church) dates from 1215. The cathedral features wonderful carvings and its surrounding chapels make for terrific exploring. Outside Surp Astvatsatsin, above the south door, is a coat of arms of the family of the Zakarian prince who built it. The theme is a common Near Eastern one, with the lion symbolising royal might.
On the left-hand side of the gavit (antechamber) are two entrances to chapels hewn from the rock in the 13th century. One contains a basin with spring water, khachkars and stalactite decoration. The second includes the four-column burial chamber of Prince Papaq Proshian and his wife, Hruzakan. The family’s coat of arms, carved in the rock above, features two lions chained together and an eagle.
Outside, steps to the left of the entrance lead up the hill to a 10m passageway with carved khachkars. This gives access to a 13th-century burial vault that was carved out of the raw rock. Its proportions and acoustics are quite amazing. In the far corner is an opening looking down on the church below.
Behind the church are steps that lead to some interesting monastic cells and more khachkars. Outside the monastery, next to the stream, is a matagh (sacrifice) site that is used on Sundays after the morning service. A choir usually sings at that service, too.
As you approach the monastery, look to the left up the hill for caves housing monastic cells built by monks. Trees here are often dotted with strips of cloth, as are trees on the other side of the monastery near the river. It is said a person can say a prayer or make a wish and tie a strip of cloth to a tree near the monastery to make it come true.
During summer, the ramp to the monastery is crammed with vendors selling souvenirs and food; you should be able to grab a snack of sweet sujuk or dove-shaped gata.
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Garni Temple
Built by Armenia’s King Trdat I in the 1st century AD, this Hellenic-style temple set on the edge of a gorge overlooking the Azat River was dedicated to the sun god, Mitra. Largely destroyed by an earthquake in 1679, the Parthenon-like structure was rebuilt between 1969 and 1975. It features a monumental staircase and Ionic columns topped by a frieze. Next to the temple are the ruins of a Roman-era bathhouse (closed to the public) and a 7th-century church.
Archaeologists have found Urartian cuneiform inscriptions dating back to the 8th century BC in the area around the temple, indicating that it has been inhabited since Neolithic times. The high promontory site is protected on three of four sides by a deep valley with rock cliffs, with a wall of massive blocks on the fourth side.
In the ruins of the church, look for the vishap (carved dragon stone). This is a marker to show the location of water. Some marks on the middle of the stone are in fact writing from King Argishti from the 8th century BC, which reads ‘Argishti, son of Menua, took people and cattle from Garni to Erebuni [the original site of Yerevan] to create a new community.’
Below the ruins is the Symphony of Stones rock formation visible with binoculars from the temple or along a terribly bumpy 4WD road (easier access is near Garni Fish Restaurant).
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Echmiadzin Cathedral
Mother See of Holy Etchmiadzin (www.armenianchurch.org) is the Vatican of the Armenian Apostolic Church, the place where Surp Grigor Lusavorich saw a beam of light in a divine vision, and where he built the first Mayr Tachar (Mother Church of Armenia). Though its rich history and symbolic importance make it a revered destination for Armenian Christians, the compound’s churches and museums are underwhelming. Those who only have time for one day trip from Yerevan should consider visiting Geghard Monastery and Garni Temple instead.
The main cathedral, Mayr Tachar, stands in a quadrangle of hedges and lawn surrounded by 19th-century buildings. The original church was consecrated between AD 301 and 303 when Christianity was first adopted by the Armenian nation, but later fell into ruin and was rebuilt in 480–83. More work and expansion occurred in the 600s, 1600s and 1700s, and a major restoration of the interior was being undertaken at the time of writing. The three-tiered bell tower at the entrance of the church is richly carved and dates from 1654. Inside, the church is modest in scale, about 20m by 20m, but the roof gleams with frescoes. At the centre is an altar at the place where St Gregory saw the divine light strike the ground. Divine Liturgy is celebrated every Sunday starting at 11am (10.30am on feast days). Morning services are generally conducted at 7.30am from Monday to Saturday and 8am on Sunday. Evening services are generally conducted at 5.30pm daily.
The grounds include the Palace of the Catholicos (aka the Veharan), the home of the present Catholicos, Karekin II, who was enthroned in 1999. He is the supreme prelate of the 1700-year-old Armenian Apostolic faith. There’s also the Cathedral Museum containing precious items obtained by the Church, and the disappointing Rouben Sevak Museum . The gardens of Mayr Tachar have a 1915–23 Genocide Monument and many fine khachkars assembled from around the country. There are also a number of contemporary churches, seminaries and libraries in the compound, the most notable of which is the Holy Archangels Church next to the main gate. This was designed by Jim Torosyan and consecrated in 2011.
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Vagharshapat
Armenia’s fourth-largest city, Vagharshapat (commonly referred to as Etchmiadzin) is largely known for its religious sites. Primarily, the Mother See of Holy Etchmiadzin, which is ground zero for the Armenian Apostolic Church and home to the current Catholicos, Karekin II. It’s also near to the Unesco-recognised Zvartnots Cathedral ruins. Teeming with tour groups in summer, Vagharshapat is nice to stroll through, with a plethora of attractive parks and churches around the Etchmiadzin quarter and the city’s central Komitas Sq, but it’s better as a day trip from Yerevan than as a destination in itself.
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Ashtarak
Ashtarak is a midsized regional town on the Kasagh Gorge, 22km northwest of Yerevan. It has an array of black-tuff, 19th-century buildings, pleasant streets lined with fruit trees, a 17th-century stone bridge (sadly dwarfed by a modern replacement) and four medieval churches, two of which command epic views over the gorge. Spillover from Yerevan promises to attract more restaurants and accommodation in the future, but for now, Ashtarak remains a quiet town worth meandering through for a few hours or as a kick-off point to sights around the region.
Surrounded by a fortified wall and commanding wonderful views over the Kasagh Gorge and to Mt Aragats, Saghmosavank (Monastery of Palms) is located in the village of the same name. The monastery is comprised of two main church buildings: the Church of Zion and the smaller Church of Karapet; both date from the 13th century. The monastery’s gavit and L-shaped library date from the same period. A 7.5km trail connects Saghmosavank with Hovhannavank along the Kasagh Gorge (five to six hours return).
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Mount Aragat
Snow covers the top of Mt Aragats, the highest mountain in modern Armenia, almost year-round, so climbing is best from July through September. Be careful, though – even in August, clouds can gather in the crater by 10am, so many start walking as early as possible (hikers commonly start mountain ascents at 5am). The southernmost of its four peaks (3893m) is easy enough for inexperienced climbers, but the northern peak (4090m) is more challenging and requires crossing a snowfield (experienced hikers only).
There is no public transport to Kari Lich (Kari Lake), the starting point for Mt Aragats walks. Hitchhikers usually take a bus to Byurakan and then try to thumb a lift, which is more likely on weekends. Hitchhiking back is easier, especially on weekends, as the lakeside khoravats (barbecue meats) restaurant is a popular spot during summer. If driving, note that the road may be closed from January to May.
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Gyumri
Armenia’s second-largest city is on an upswing three decades after the devastating 1988 Spitak earthquake levelled most of Gyumri. Thanks in part to foreign contributions (French-Armenian singer Charles Aznavour and the European Bank are among the donors), Gyumri is being rebuilt with the addition of pretty cobblestone and lamp-lit streets. Restoration is still a work in progress though, as many art-nouveau buildings remain largely rubble and nearly 2000 people still live in shipping containers – a post-earthquake plan that was far from temporary. But there’s excitement in the air. Pedestrian-friendly Rizhkov St is lined with trendy cafes and nightlife venues are starting to pop up in the traditionally sleepy city. Artists from Yerevan are coming and more importantly, young Gyumritsis are staying when they were previously known to flock to the capital or flee to Russia. Unlike ever before, Gyumri is proving Armenia has more than one city worth visiting.
Stretching from Vardanants Sq to Central Park, Gyumri’s historic Kumayri neighbourhood is worth meandering through, as is the area just north of the square, which includes freshly added cobblestone streets funded by the European Bank. The most charming stretch is Abovyan St.
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Tsaghkadzor
Back when Armenia was part of the USSR, Soviet athletes came to Tsaghkadzor (Gorge of Flowers) to train for the Winter Olympics and other sporting competitions. The ski centre on the slope of Mt Teghenis is still here, and during the ski season (December to March) the village is hugely popular with wealthy Armenians keen to take to the slopes by day and relax in one of the luxury hotels at night. In summer, Tsaghkadzor is delightfully cool and makes an excellent base for those wanting to explore Lake Sevan, which is only 25km away.
The forests around the base and at the top of the mountain provide some nice walks, especially in late spring and early summer when the wildflowers are blooming.
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Byurakan
The landscape around the village of Byurakan, about 14km northwest of Ashtarak on the southern slopes of Mt Aragats, includes an astronomical observatory and the impressive remains of Amberd, 15km up the mountain.
- Constructed on a ridge above the confluence of the little gorges of the Amberd and Arkashen streams, this majestic stone fortress dates back to the 7th century but its current buildings date from the 12th century. It’s easy to see why the site was chosen – at 2300m above sea level it commands a position above the farms and trade routes of the Ararat Plain. The ruins of a chapel, 13th-century bathhouse and cistern stand downhill from the fortress.
- Thirty-nine giant Armenian letters are haphazardly clustered alongside the highway, 20km northeast of Byurakan and 15km from Ashtarak. The letters were erected in 2005 to honour the 1600th anniversary of Mesrop Mashtots inventing the Armenian alphabet. Mashtots, who is also memorialised with a statue on the site, created the alphabet to give the recently established Christian kingdom its own Bible.
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Yerevan
Amenia’s capital, Yerevan, is one of the world’s oldest continually inhabited cities—29 years older than Rome. Throughout its 2,800-year history, kingdoms, invasions, Communism, and dictatorships have come and gone. Today, Yerevan is a city of one million, with a European ambience, lined with wide boulevards and sidewalk cafes. Yerevan is cosmopolitan, safe, and affordable—with museums, hotels, overly generous portions of food and wine, and even a night at the opera going for friendly prices.
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Stepanavan
Sitting on a plateau above the steep-sided gorge of the Dzoragets River, Stepanavan is known throughout the former Soviet Union as one of the birthplaces of Armenian communism. An early cell of the Bolsheviks led by local lad Stepan Shahumian operated from hideouts and caves in this region before the revolution. Shahumian died in a lonely corner of the Turkmenistan desert with the other 26 ‘Baku Commissars’ in 1918, and all 26 were later sanctified in countless memorials across the region. (The Baku Commissars were Bolshevik leaders in the Caucasus in the early days of the revolution.)
The town museum dedicated to Shahumian may be interesting to students of Soviet history, but there is no cogent reason for other visitors to head this way.
Outside of town, the Lori Berd ruins, however, are well worth exploring. On a promontory between the gorges of the Dzoragets and Miskhana Rivers, this ruined fortress has huge towers and massive stone blocks along its exposed side. Originally the base of David Anhogin, who ruled the region of Tashir-Dzoraget from 989 to 1048, it eventually became a base for the Orbelians and Zakarians, powerful Armenian noble families. There are ruined buildings worth exploring, an ancient cemetery and hillocks that are actually Bronze Age tumulus tombs. A 14th-century bridge is in the gorge below. To reach the fortress, head out of town across the bridge and veer right at the roundabout, following the course of the river past the Lori Berd village and then veering right again at a sign. The remaining 2km is on a poor-quality road. A taxi from Stepanavan takes about 15 minutes and should cost around AMD1000; a Yandex will cost AMD500 to AMD600. From the fort, you can walk back to Stepanavan along a 4.5km trail in the steep-sided gorge; this starts on the north side of the fort.

Vanadzor
In a way, Vanadzor (formerly Kirovakan) is Armenia’s Detroit. Its industry, chemical factories, has mostly shut down, leaving the city poor and in a shambles (and potentially toxic). Meanwhile, young people and artists are making the most of it – a few of the country’s most popular bands are from here and a hip cafe and speakeasy recently opened up. Still, Vanadzor remains, on the whole, a grey post-industrial former Soviet city.
It’s a good idea to stay here as a base to explore Debed Canyon. This canyon manages to pack in more history and culture than anywhere else in the country. Nearly every village along the Debed River has a church, a chapel, an old fort and a sprinkling of khachkars somewhere nearby. Two World Heritage–listed monasteries, Haghpat and Sanahin, are the main attractions, but there’s much more to see. Derelict Soviet-era environmentally disastrous infrastructure is sadly noticeable along the riverbank, but the dramatic scenery is quite idyllic elsewhere and worth driving, or rafting, through.

Dsegh
Nestled on a wildflower-strewn plateau high above the gorge, this agricultural village is known throughout the southern Caucasus as the birthplace of Armenia’s national poet, Hovhannes Tumanyan. Dsegh also has a 7th-century church and five trails popular with birdwatchers. The town itself is little more than a roundabout.

Odzun
Perched on a broad shelf that terminates at a sheer plunge down to the Debed River, Odzun is a substantial settlement of about 4000 residents that is best known for its magnificent church of St Astvatsatsin.
St Astvatsatsin Church - Built on the site where legend tells us St Thomas buried Christ’s swaddling clothes in the 1st century, the core of St Astvatsatsin dates from the 5th century but had considerable additions in the 8th century. The current building features plenty of carved bas reliefs, a central cupola, a handsome external pillared arcade on its southern side and two 19th-century belfries. The unusual funerary monument next to it is thought to date from the 6th century.

Kobayr Monastery
Perched above the hamlet of Kobayr is the 12th-century Kobayr Monastery. The main church has some partially restored Georgian-style frescoes and a detached 13th-century bell tower. There are also three chapels, one with a scenic circular balcony. Behind the main church is a beautiful slow-dripping waterfall that’s also worth seeing.
You’ll need to watch the road carefully to spot the sign leading to the hamlet of Kobayr (also spelt Khober or Kober), around 6km north of the Tufenkian Avan Dzoraget Hotel and restaurant. Leave your car in the small lot next to the railway line and clamber up the steep path, dodging chickens, pigs and other farm animals on the way. The steep climb takes 10 to 15 minutes.
Kobayr is about 18km from Alaverdi and 33km from Vanadzor. Marshrutky travelling the route between Vanadzor, Alaverdi and Noyemberyan can be flagged down on the highway but only pass twice daily.
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Alaverdi
Blighted by a huge smokestack belching smoke into the valley, Alaverdi is the administrative and transport hub of this area but doesn’t have much else going for it. Rows of shabby Soviet-era apartment blocks are cut into the strata by the highway and the railway line, and a half-decommissioned copper smelting plant (the source of the smoke) dominates the town’s northern edge.
Tamara’s bridge, about 1km north of the bus stand, was built by order of Queen Tamar of Georgia in the 12th century. This humpbacked stone bridge has four kitten-faced lions carved on the stone railing and makes for a good place to relax in summer.
Cut into the canyon wall above Alaverdi, Sanahin is home to one of Armenia’s World-Heritage–listed medieval monasteries. It is an essential stop for all visitors to the Debed Canyon.
Sanahin is a World Heritage site packed with ancient graves, darkened chapels and medieval study halls. The inner sanctum of the cross-shaped Surp Astvatsatsin (Holy Mother of God Church) is the oldest structure, dating back to 934. Its adjoining gavit was built in 1181. In its heyday, the monastery was renowned for its school of illuminators and calligraphers and also for its medical school. Its name means ‘older than that one’, referring to nearby Haghpat Monastery. Sanahin’s large library (scriptorium) was built in 1063. Square in plan and vaulted, it has 10 niches of varying sizes in which codices and books were stored. At the south-eastern corner of the library is a small church dedicated to St Gregory the Illuminator. The 11th-century Academy of Gregory Magistros is located between the two main churches. The cemetery, located to the southeast of the main buildings, contains a 12th-century mausoleum housing the Zakarian princes.
Opened in 1978, a cable car was constructed to bring as many as 15 people at a time up to Sanahin. Unfortunately, it closed in 2015 and there are no plans to reopen it.

Akhtala
Akhtala, a small village 20km northeast of Alaverdi, has one major claim to fame: the magnificent frescoes in its 13th-century church. These include a stunning Virgin Mary in the apse, and depictions of the Last Supper, Last Judgement, Crucifixion and Resurrection on other walls. Note the fresco of bearded Persians, said to have been painted so that invading armies would spare the church. To get to the church, you’ll need to walk through towering 10th-century basalt fortifications.
Entering Akhtala Monastery (St Astavatsin) from the main gate, look left and you’ll see two large caves that were used for smelting copper. Surrounding the church are a well-preserved chapel and a graveyard with old and new headstones – be careful where you walk, as weeds and grass hide dangerous drops into underground structures.
A daily marshrutka to Akhtala (AMD200, 40 minutes) departs Alaverdi at noon, but returns immediately, meaning that you will be stranded here after your visit. It’s a 3km walk to the highway.
Outside the monastery is Nurik, a USAID-supported cafe and visitor centre established by a local women’s organisation. Besides serving tasty food, Nurik offers courses in doll-, candle-, soap- and carpet-making as well as felting. Cooking classes are also available.

Haghpat
One of Debed Canyon’s World Heritage–listed monastery complexes is found in this picturesque village east of Alaverdi. Views of rolling hills down from the village are spectacular and the monastery is one of the most handsome in Armenia. In summer, Haghpat gets crammed with tour groups, many of which dip down from Georgia.
Occupying a commanding position overlooking the gorge, Haghpat Monastery has atmosphere and architectural splendour in spades. Founded around 976 by Queen Khosrvanuch, who funded construction of the domed Surp Nishan at the centre of the complex, it saw a building boom in the 12th and 13th centuries. Surp Nishan’s frescoes and the porch, gavit, bell tower, library and chapter house were added at this time. The monastery’s name means ‘huge wall’, acknowledging its hefty fortifications.
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Dilijan
It’s billed as the ‘Switzerland of Armenia’, and although that may be a stretch, alpine Dilijan has undeniably attractive scenery and an extremely pleasant climate. During Soviet times, cinematographers, composers, artists and writers came here to be creative; today it’s a centre for tourism with a number of fine B&Bs and restaurants.
There’s certainly enough natural beauty to inspire creative thought: the lush oak and hornbeam forests surrounding the town with snow-capped peaks in the distance make for perfect hiking territory. In summer, villagers herd cattle down from the mountain pastures and foragers gather mushrooms and herbs from the rich deciduous forests. The local architecture features a lot of steep tiled roofs and wooden beams, along with some cute gingerbread-style structures. Even the Soviet monuments have a touch of flair.
With the medieval churches of Haghartsin and Goshavank an easy day trip away, Dilijan is one of Armenia’s best towns to visit.

Ijevan
Surrounded by forested mountains and with the Aghstev River running through its centre, Ijevan is the bustling capital of Tavush province. Ijevan means caravanserai (inn) and the town has been on a major east–west trade route for millennia. The local climate is warmer than in Dilijan, and the town is the centre of a wine-growing district producing some decent wines. The town’s architecture is mostly Soviet, but there are some handsome early-20th-century buildings, a bustling open-air shuka and a wine and cognac factory.

Lake Sevan
Set 1900m above sea level and covering 1240 sq km, the vast expanse of Sevana Lich (Lake Sevan) is the largest lake in the Caucasus and one of the largest freshwater high-altitude lakes in the world. Its colours and shades change with the weather, forming dazzling azure to dark blue hues, and a thousand shades in between. Fish populations include the endangered ishkhan (prince trout) as well as introduced crayfish and sig (whitefish).
In the 1950s, Soviet planners irrigated the nearby Hrazdan River, causing Lake Sevan’s water level to drop 20m. The drop uncovered forts, houses and artefacts dating back 2000 years, but combined with overfishing and sewage dumping, also led environmentalists to declare the lake is on the brink of destruction.
Lake Sevan’s beaches are very popular with Russian tourists and noisy day-trippers. For some tranquillity, head to the eastern side to visit Wishup Shore or the Tufenkian Avan Marak Tsapatagh Hotel
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Noratus Cemetary
Approximately 900 khachkars dating from as far back as the 10th-century dot this breath-taking cemetery on the western edge of Lake Sevan. Legend has it that an invading army was forced to take cover as their commander mistook the field of khachkars for a battalion of enemy soldiers. All khachkars face west and thus are better photographed in the afternoon. Watch out for the ladies who propose guided tours – for a price.
A laminated paper detailing the most noteworthy khachkars in 10 languages is available outside the souvenir shop
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Sevan
This bustling town is 6km inland from the lake’s western shore and is the administrative centre for the region. It was founded in 1842 as the Russian village of Elenovka, named after the wife of Czar Nicholas I, but there are few reminders of the past. There is almost nothing to see or do in the city itself, and Sevan is not worth visiting except as a transport hub for the beaches, resorts and monasteries surrounding the lake. Taxis to Yerevan, the peninsula and lakeshore hotels leave from the main street, which also has shops, ATMs and a shuka.
There are some hotels in the city as well as resorts along the water. This side of the lake is most commonly visited by Russian tourists. There are only a couple restaurants in town as well as a popular teahouse.

Areni
Grapes for wine have been grown in this region for oh, not too long, just 6100 years, according to the 2007 discovery of the world’s oldest-known winery at Areni-1 Cave. Unlike other regions, the grapes here manage to handle Armenia’s climatic extremes and locals have seized the opportunity to grow them. During the Soviet era, winemaking was done strictly in private, but traditions have been passed down and excellent wineries have popped up all over, especially along the Areni–Yeghegnadzor highway. The best include Old Bridge, Momik Wine Cube, Zorah and Trinity Canyon Vineyards. Tack on some charming B&Bs and it’s easy to foresee the Areni area becoming Armenia’s Napa Valley.
When you drive into the village you’ll see roadside stalls selling large bottles that look like they’re filled with cola. These are in fact filled with red wine, camouflaged so that Iranian truck drivers can smuggle the bottles over the border.

Yeghegnadzor
An overgrown country town built on twisting lanes that wind into the hills, Yeghegnadzor (yeh-heg-nadzor) is the peaceful administrative centre of Vayots Dzor marz (province). The town is mainly a Soviet-era confection of wide civic spaces and tuff apartment blocks, with few local industries or businesses; most locals rely on remittances or agriculture for their income. But in recent years, Yeghegnadzor has blossomed with an abundance of excellent B&Bs and guesthouses making it an ideal base from which to explore the region – you could easily spend a couple of days here while visiting Noravank and the Yeghegis Valley.
There is a good walk from town down to the river and a 13th-century stone bridge, which was used during the Silk Road and designed by the same architect that built Noravank. To get there, walk down the highway, turn right and walk for 400m, then turn left down a dirt track (just before the 256 Km post) and follow it for 1.3km to the bridge.

Noravank Monastery
Founded by Bishop Hovhannes in 1205 and renovated in the 1990s, Noravank is one of the most spectacular sites in Armenia and should be included on every visitor’s itinerary. Around sunset, the reddish hues of the dramatic cliffs surrounding the monastery are accentuated by the setting sun, and the reddish-gold stone of its churches acquire a luminous sheen – it’s a totally magnificent sight.
The complex includes the 13th-century Surp Karapet Church, built next to the ruins of an earlier church also dedicated to St John the Baptist. Attached to this is a small 13th-century chapel dedicated to Surp Gregor; it’s home to a carved lion-human tombstone dated to 1300.
The main, much-photographed, structure is the 14th-century Surp Astvatsatsin Church (1339), built on top of the mausoleum of Burtel Orbelian, who is buried here with his family. Historians say the church is reminiscent of tower-like burial structures created in the early years of Christianity. There’s a wonderful carving of Christ flanked by Sts Peter and Paul above the door.
An unimpressive museum featuring prints, as well as some old coins and books, is found to the right of the entrance. There are picnic spots and springs around Noravank, as well as an excellent on-site restaurant. The valley really warms up in the middle of a summer’s day, so come early, or late in the afternoon.
Noravank features on many travel-agency tours from Yerevan, which is about 90 minutes away by road – many combine a visit with a stop at Khor Virap and a winery. Marshrutky from Yerevan or Yeghegnadzor can drop you at the turn-off on the highway near the Edem restaurant. From here, it’s 7.5km to Noravank. Hitching is a fairly easy process, especially on weekends.
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Spitakavor Monastery
Only accessible by foot or 4WD, 14th-century Spitakavor Monastery was built on the site of a 5th-century basilica and has a church, gavit (antechamber) and bell tower. The exterior of the church features some unusual carving. The 20th-century Armenian military commander Garegin Nzhdeh is buried in the graveyard. Nzhdeh fought in the Balkan Wars against the Ottoman Empire and commanded a force of Armenian volunteer fighters in WWI. In 1921 he was prime minister of the short-lived Republic of Mountainous Armenia.
To get here, head past the Museum of Gladzor University to a T-junction. The road to the left leads to the monastery; it’s about 8.4km along a winding dirt track for vehicles or 6km along a more direct walking path. Walk past the museum and through the village, cross the stream and carry on straight up the western bank of the gorge, keeping the stream and small dam on your right (ignore the vehicle road, which switches back). Continue up the track, veer left into grazing pasture and then head right. You’ll then see the monastery above you.
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Yeghegis Valley
The beautiful Yeghegis Valley is surrounded by towering peaks and is home to many picturesque villages with medieval churches. It and the surrounding valleys are well worth exploring for a day or two, but you’ll need a car and/or solid hiking boots.
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Smbataberd Fortress
Located high on a hill and surrounded by deep gorges, the Smbataberd Fortress is one of Armenia’s most impressive fortifications. The fortress’s visual prominence and fascinating history make it the center of this experience, which includes not only a guided hike up to the fortress, but also the opportunity to prepare and bake Armenia’s iconic gata in a tonir oven.

Yeghegis Village
Yeghegis (yer-ghiz) village is reached by taking the right fork after Shatin. It has three overgrown churches in the village on the left-hand side of the main road:
- the 18th-century St Astvatsatsin with its grass-covered roof;
- the 13th-century Surp Karapet Church;
- and the very unusual 14th-century Surp Zorats, where worshippers gathered before an outdoor altar.
It’s believed this courtyard was created so that horses and soldiers could be blessed before going off to battle. Surp Karapet and Surp Zorats are difficult to find: start at St Astvatsatsin and walk uphill, then turn right, veer left and then turn right again when you see some khachkars. Surp Karapet is down another road to the right; Surp Zorats is straight ahead, around a corner (left) and then in a field on the right.
Along the main road on the northeastern edge of the village, look for a blue sign saying ‘Arates 9.7km’. Park here and walk down a switchback dirt road to find a rickety metal footbridge crossing the river. Cross the bridge (if you dare) to find an 800-year-old Jewish cemetery – Hebrew inscriptions are clearly visible on some of the grave markers. The engravings are biblical verses and the names of the deceased. Prior to the discovery of the cemetery there had been no evidence of Jews inhabiting Armenia. The cemetery was in use for about 80 years – the oldest tombstone is dated 1266 and the newest is dated 1346. Researchers theorise that this community of Jews arrived from Persia, having travelled up the Silk Road. The reason for their disappearance remains a mystery.

Tsakhatskar Monastery
About 1km from the village of Artabuynk a sign points to the left for the 10th-century Tsakhatskar Monastery, a crumbling agglomeration of churches and old khachkars only reachable via 4WD or on foot (keep an eye out for snakes). From the stream, continue up the main track to the right (the side of the valley with the power poles); the monastery eventually comes into view on the left. Walking from the stream to the monastery should take about an hour and a half.
From the monastery, head back down the way you came and at the fork in the path head left up the slope to Smbataberd. The stretch up to the fort takes about 30 minutes and is also best accessed with 4WD. Hiking from Tsakhatskar to Smbataberd should take about 45 minutes and then 30 minutes to get back to the stream. On the other side of Smbataberd there’s a beautiful view looking down on the valley.
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Jermuk
Since Soviet times, the upmarket spa town of Jermuk has been a popular vacation spot due to its precious mineral water treatment sanitoriums. In the old days, people would sign up for 18-day courses with medically supervised immersions in Jermuk’s waters. The town is also attractive for its blissfully cool summer temperatures, its modest ski slope and its breathtaking verdant landscape, visible on the drive into town.
Outside of high season in July and August, the town morphs into a ghost town and is eerily quiet at night.
The Gallery of Waters is a collonaded structure built in 1956 which contains five flowing stone urns fed with mineral water by pipes set in the wall. Temperatures of the water range from 30°C to 53°C, each said to hold different healing properties, including treating stomach and liver problems, heart disease and cancer.

Selim Pass
Linking the provinces of Gegharkunik and Vayots Dzor, this road over the Vardenis mountain range is one of the most spectacular driving routes in the country. Climbing to an elevation of 2410m, it is covered with heavy snow in winter.
Just below the highest point of the pass on the Vayots Dzor side is the Selim Caravanserai, built in 1332 by order of Prince Chesar Orbelian to offer shelter to caravans following the ancient Dvin–Partav trading route. A sturdy basalt building on a windswept plateau, it comprises a three-nave hall, vestibule, domed chapel and small rooms where travellers once slept. The facade features two bas-relief statues with Orbelian dynasty insignia. Destroyed sometime between the 15th and 16th centuries, it was reconstructed in the 1950s and is open to the elements. Picnic tables outside command wonderful views over the Yeghegis Valley.
No public transport travels this road but you will find taxis between Yeghegnadzor and Martuni on the edge of Lake Sevan.
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Sisian
Sisian sits on a high plateau where it snows as late as March or April. The autumn ends early here too. It has a core of decrepit early-20th-century buildings and is divided into two districts by the wide Vorotan River. The town’s buildings are falling apart, unemployment is high and the river is often full of rubbish – a sad fate for a place that was prosperous and proud in the Soviet era.
The region was inhabited long before the town was built, evidenced by nearby Neolithic observatories and animal petroglyphs. These days, the only compelling reason to visit is to see the petroglyphs at Karahunj (aka Zorats Karer) and Ughtasar (Pilgrimage Mountain). Stays should aim to be as short as possible as the tourist infrastructure in Sisian is underdeveloped.
SIGHTS
- Two hundred and twenty upright basalt stones up to 3m high set along sweeping lines and loops, some punctured with sight holes aligned with stars, make up the ancient site often referred to as Armenia’s Stonehenge, Karahunj (also called Carahunge or Zorats Karer). The site, situated on a rise above the river plains ringed by mountains, is dotted with tombs dated to before 2000 BC. The astronomical design of Karahunj is most evident at the solstices and equinoxes. Lines of stones define an egg-shaped area with a burial tumulus in the centre, with a northern arm stretching 170m and a southern alley 160m long. About 70 stones are pierced with finger-sized holes. The builders had a deep knowledge of astronomy, including the zodiac and the lunar phases, combined perhaps with worship for stars such as Sirius.
The site won’t blow you away (there are no balancing stones like you’d see at Stonehenge) but the pleasant 45-minute walk here from town and excellent panoramas make it a worthwhile trip. Karahunj is 6km north of Sisian, signposted on the left about 700m before the main highway. The stones are in the fields about 400m from the turn-off.
- The Shaki Waterfall lies about 4km from Sisian near the village of the same name. About 18m high, it gushes down a line of trees and a wide expanse of stones above the Shaki River. Locals picnic along the 10-minute walk from the parking lot. The water is used for Shaki’s hydroelectric power station, so the waterfall is only ‘on’ from 11am to 6pm.
- About 6km down the Vorotan River from Sisian in Aghitu (Aghudi) village is a distinctive 7th-century tower-tomb. There are dragon stones nearby from the 2nd to 3rd century BC. The road continues as the canyon deepens past Vaghatin to Vorotnavank, 12km from Sisian on the south side of the Vorotan. The first church in the Vorotnavank fortress complex was built by Queen Shahandukht in 1000. In 1007, her son Sevada built a second church.
- The petroglyphs of Ughtasar (Pilgrimage Mountain) in the mountains north of Sisian are even older than Karahunj. They lie at an altitude of 3300m around a lake on Mt Tsghuk, accessible between June and September – and even then only if it’s not a cold summer. Carvings of leaping, dancing animals and hunters adorn rocks and boulders everywhere around the small lake. It’s a haunting place surrounded by isolated peaks, and you can only wonder why ancient people would hike to such an inhospitable place to leave their mark on stone. The tracks are steep, rocky and hopeless without a jeep and a guide. A guide for up to four can be hired for AMD30,000 per person. Enquire at Hotel Dina in Sisian about this.
- The ruins of Tanahat Vank (not to be confused with the better-known monastery near Yeghegnadzor) are 17km southwest of Sisian past the Tolors Reservoir. A university was established here in 1280. Called Karmir (Red) Vank by locals, Tanahat Monastery is on a high promontory by a gorge. The monks here were so pious and ascetic they refused soup, cheese and oil, eating only vegetables, hence the name Tanahat, meaning ‘deprived of soup’. Local tours can be negotiated directly with the taxi drivers or through Hotel Dina.
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Wings of Tatev
Wings of Tatev, a cableway from Tatev to Halidzor village was opened in October 2010 and is reputedly the worlds "longest non-stop double track cable car". The ride will take around 15 minutes to cover the almost 6 km and deposit you at the medieval monastery of Tatev.
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Khndzoresk
About 10 km from Goris along a somewhat bumpy road you will find the abandoned town of Khndzoresk. Dug into volcanic sandstone on the slopes of Khor Dzor, the village was inhabited from as far back as the 13th century but after a devastating earthquake in 1931 was completely abandoned. The collection of 17th-century churches and the ghost town of caves makes for some fascinating exploring.

Army of Stones
The prehistoric, archaeological site of Zorats Karer near Karahujn is often referred to as the "Armenian Stonehenge". The stone monument site is rich with stone settings, burial cists and standing stones arranged in a large central circle along with northern and southern arms amongst other arrangements. In total 223 stones have been identified as part of the arrangement.

Shikahogh State Reserve
Armenia’s second-largest forest reserve, Shikahogh is located in southern Armenia in the Syunik Province. It has been largely unaffected by Armenia’s massive post-Soviet deforestation due to its remote location and care shown by residents of nearby villages and is home to diverse wildlife including leopards, bears, wild goats, and vipers. This is the spot for prime, if somewhat rustic, mountain hiking trails that will lead you past ancient tombs, medieval churches, abandoned villages, crystal clear springs and waterfalls.
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Goris
The endlessly winding roads that leap through the gorges over the mountains of Syunik come to a major junction at Goris, making this an inevitable stop between Yerevan and Stepanakert or the Iranian border. The town’s tree-lined avenues and grand 19th-century stone houses are a precious rarity in a country largely swept of its past by mundane Soviet-era structures. The town is run-down in parts, especially at its decrepit central Parc de Vienne, but Goris is an underrated base to spend a couple of days enjoying quality guesthouses and exploring the volcanic pinnacle clusters in the area. Don’t miss the abandoned cave city at Old Khndzoresk, 10km east of town.
Great times to visit are in June for the town’s sheep-shearing festival or for in July for the oghee festival.
- Dug into volcanic sandstone on the slopes of Khor Dzor (Deep Gorge), the village of Old Khndzoresk was inhabited as far back as the 13th century. By the late 19th century, the town was the largest in eastern Armenia, but after being devastated by the 1931 earthquake it was abandoned (save for a brief stint during the Karabakh War when caves were used as shelter). Now Old Khndzoresk stands a ghost town of caves and 17th-century churches worth spending several hours exploring. Take the highway from Goris about 6km and make a right on a dirt road located about 3km before the town of Khndzoresk. The bumpy road will take you to a viewpoint and a cafe (open May to October) as well as a squeaky 160m suspension bridge over the gorge. Alternatively, drive to the end of Khndzoresk and follow the paved road to the right down the hill.
- Locals say the cave shelters of Old Goris carved into the hillside on the east side of town were built and inhabited in the 5th century. Several trails lead up over a saddle where there are epic views over Goris and volcanic pinnacle clusters similar to the ‘fairy chimneys’ seen in Turkey. It’s worth exploring the cave rooms, many of which are linked together and feature arched ‘shelve’ walls. Nowadays, some caves are used to house cattle or as churches. HIKEArmenia has a 1½-hour marked hike on its app that goes up the mountain and leaves the cemetery. The hike is rather easy, but trails can be slippery at parts – wear good shoes and watch your step.

Tatev
The tiny rural village of Tatev is perched on a plateau overlooking the Vorotan River and has jaw-dropping views over the peaks to Karabakh. In the 13th century, the town was the political centre of the region, controlling 680 villages. These days, it’s known for its famous medieval monastery and the Wings of Tatev Aerial Tramway, the longest nonstop reversible cable car in the world.

Tatev Monastery
The bishops of Syunik built the main church, Surp Poghos-Petros (St Paul and St Peter), in the 9th century to house important relics. There are faint signs of frescoes, intricate carvings and portraits of the main donors on the northern side. On most days, the faithful line up to be blessed. The Surp Grigor Church, built in 1295 in the place of a 9th-century building, nestles next to the main church, and there’s a miniaturised chapel above the gatehouse.
At the monastery’s peak some 600 monks lived and worked in the complex, and national icon Surp Grigor Tatevatsi (St Gregory of Tatev; 1346–1409) is buried here.
In the courtyard, look for the 8m octagonal pillar topped by a khachkar. The 9th-century monument is said to have predicted seismic activity (or the roar of hooves by approaching armies) by shifting.
The fortifications, added in the 17th century, have been restored and are full of dining halls, towers and libraries. Outside the main gate there is an oil press exhibit with a display of seeds, tools and ancient machinery used in the process of oil extraction.
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Satans Bridge
If you’re hiking or driving to Tatev rather than taking the aerial tramway, stop off to see Satan’s Bridge, located on the road halfway between the cable car and Tatev village. Legend tells that centuries ago, villagers fleeing a rebel army were blocked by the raging river. Before the invaders attacked, a bridge was magically created by a huge falling rock and the people were saved.
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Kapan
The largest city in Syunik marz, Kapan is wedged between high mountains and splintered by numerous valleys. The name itself is derived from the Armenian word kapel (to lock), a reference to the interlocking mountain chains that converge here. During the 18th century, Kapan was a base for Davit Bek, an Armenian freedom fighter who took on Muslim invaders encroaching on Armenia’s southern border. The village grew rapidly during the Soviet era when Russian geologists, seeing the potential for mineral extraction, arrived with blueprints for a massive mining complex. There is so much unrefined metal underground that compasses won’t work in some parts of town.
Kapan is as big of a hub as you’re going to get in southern Armenia. It’s home to plenty of shops, several hotels and cafes, making it a useful stop when driving to the Iranian border.
- Mighty Mt Khustup (3210m) is visible high above the town. The approach to the peak is via the village of Verin Vachagan, about 3km southwest of Kapan. It’s approximately 7km to the base, where you’ll find a small church. You can get fine views from here; another three hours of hiking is required to reach the top.
- The main sight in the immediate area around Kapan is the remains of 10th-century Vahanavank, about 7km from Kapan just off the Kajaran road. The monastery was once the religious centre for Syunik’s kings. An attempt to restore the monastery in 1978 was later abandoned and the church was roofless until 2006 when a jarringly modern-looking red roof was added.

Meghri
Strategic Meghri, Armenia’s toehold on Iran, is worth exploring for its fine stone houses and stark beautiful scenery. The town sits deep in the lushly irrigated gorge of the Meghri River surrounded by sawtooth peaks. The 24-hour border crossing is at the Araks bridge near Agarak (population 4200), 8km from Meghri.
In Iran, just across the river from Agarak, is the ancient village of Noordoz (also spelt Noghdoz or Norduz) – the minarets of the local mosque are visible in the distance. This is a sensitive border area so be careful where you point your camera.
- The Meghri town monastery is the brick domed 17th-century Surp Hovannes. In the centre of town is the fine Surp Astvatsatsin Church with a distinctive octagonal dome built in the 17th century with later frescoes. There’s also the Surp Sargis Church across the river in Pokr Tagh with two rows of columns and some delicately restored frescoes.