Rio de Janeiro
One of the world’s truly great cities, with mind-blowing views seemingly at every corner. Golden beaches and lush mountains, samba-fuelled nightlife and spectacular football matches: welcome to the Cidade Maravilhosa (Marvellous City).
The 1920s to 1950s were Rio’s golden age, when it became an exotic destination for international high society. But by the time the capital was moved to Brasília in 1960, Rio was already grappling with problems that continue to this day. Immigrants poured into favelas (slums; informal communities) from poverty-stricken areas of the country, swelling the number of urban poor and increasing the chasm between the haves and have-nots.
Things were looking up at the turn of the 21st century as Rio’s economy boomed, and the city played a starring role in both the 2014 FIFA World Cup and the 2016 Olympic Games – the first South American city to host the event. Sadly, the good times came crashing to an end by 2017, with a big recession, soaring unemployment and rising crime rates. Despite the challenges, Rio has seen major improvements, notably a new metro line to Barra da Tijuca and a revitalized swath of downtown – with new museums and a mural-lined promenade near Praça Mauá.
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Ipanema & Leblon
Boasting magnificent beaches and pleasant tree-lined streets, Ipanema and Leblon are Rio’s loveliest destinations and the favoured residence for young, beautiful (and wealthy) cariocas. Microcultures dominate the beach, often centering around postos (elevated stands where lifeguards sit). Posto 9, off Vinícius de Moraes, is the gathering spot for the beauty crowd; nearby, in front of Farme de Amoedo, is the gay section; Posto 11 (off Delfim Moreira) in Leblon attracts families.
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Gávea, Jardim Botânico & Lagoa
The northern border of Ipanema and Leblon is formed by the Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas, a saltwater lagoon fronted by the high-rent districts of Gávea, Jardim Botânico and Lagoa. The lake is encircled by a 7.2km walking and cycling path, with bikes and paddleboats available for hire along the east side of the lake. Verdant botanical gardens lie to the west.

Jardim Botânico
This exotic 137-hectare garden, with more than 8000 plant species, was designed by order of the Prince Regent Dom João (later to become Dom João VI) in 1808. The garden is quiet and serene on weekdays and blossoms with families on weekends. Highlights of a visit here include the row of palms (planted when the garden first opened), the Amazonas section, the lake containing the huge Vitória Régia water lilies, and the enclosed orquidário, home to 600 species of orchids.
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Parque Lage
This beautiful park lies at the base of the Floresta da Tijuca, about 1km from Jardim Botânico. It has English-style gardens, little lakes, and a mansion that houses the Escola de Artes Visuais (School of Visual Arts), which hosts free art exhibitions and occasional performances. The park is a tranquil place and the café here offers a fine setting for a coffee or a meal.
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Copacabana & Leme
The scalloped beach of Copacabana begins northeast of Ipanema. Once a destination for international jet-setters, Copacabana is the city’s somewhat ragged tourist magnet, with dozens of oceanfront hotels and sidewalk restaurants. The population density is high here and mixes old-timers, favela kids and tourists, and high and low culture.
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Botafogo & Urca
Just north of Copacabana, Botafogo and Humaitá are desirable neighbourhoods with vibrant nightlife and cutting-edge restaurants. East of Botafogo, Urca retains a peaceful vibe, and is famed for Pão de Açúcar (Sugarloaf Mountain), which shadows its quiet streets.

Pão de Açúcar (Sugarloaf)
Seen from the peak of Pão de Açúcar, Rio is undoubtedly a Cidade Maravilhosa (Marvelous City). There are many good times to make the ascent, but sunset on a clear day is the most rewarding. Two cable cars connect to the summit, 395m above Rio. At the top, the city unfolds beneath you, with Corcovado mountain and Cristo Redentor (Christ the Redeemer) off to the west, and Copacabana Beach to the south.
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Flamengo & Around
To the north of Botafogo, residential neighborhoods include low-key Flamengo, leafy Laranjeiras and, further west, Cosme Velho, above which looms Cristo Redentor (Christ the Redeemer) atop Corcovado. Following the curve of the bay north is Parque do Flamengo, home to cycling trails, sports fields, and several monuments and museums.

Cristo Redentor (Christ the Redeemer)
Standing atop Corcovado (which means ‘hunchback’), Cristo Redentor gazes out over Rio, a placid expression on his well-crafted face. The mountain rises straight up from the city to 710m, and at night the brightly lit 38m-high open-armed statue – all 1145 tons of him – is visible from nearly every part of the city.

Lapa
On the southwestern edge of Centro, Lapa is a ramshackle district that’s also the epicentre of Rio’s nightlife, with dozens of samba-filled bars and clubs, and late-night street parties.

Santa Teresa
Uphill from Lapa, Santa Teresa is a picturesque neighbourhood of winding streets and old mansions that have been restored by the many artists and bohemian characters who have settled there.

Escadaria Selarón
One of Rio’s best-loved attractions, the steps leading up from Joaquim Silva became a work of art when Chilean-born artist Jorge Selarón decided to cover them with colourful mosaics. A dedication to the Brazilian people, the 215 steps are a vivid riot of colour.

Centro
Centro is Rio’s business hub and also one of the city’s oldest areas; it houses baroque churches, historic sites, scenic plazas and lavish theatres. Its wide boulevards are crisscrossed with narrow pedestrian streets sprinkled with colonial buildings. History aside, Centro has atmospheric open-air cafes and bars that draw the happy-hour crowd.

Praça Mauá
Praça Mauá is the center of Rio’s revitalized port district and has some outstanding new museums.

Boulevard Olímpico
Rio’s formerly derelict port district has been reborn as a wide promenade lined with massive street art. A handful of renowned artists have painted spectacular murals on the old warehouses, though Brazilian artist Eduardo Kobra (www.eduardokobra.com) deserves special mention for his jaw-dropping work entitled Etnias (Ethnicities). The massive mural stretches for 190m and features photogenic portraits of indigenous people from around the globe.

Parque National Da Tijuca
The Tijuca Forest is all that’s left of the Atlantic rainforest that once surrounded Rio de Janeiro. This 39-sq-km tropical-jungle preserve is an exuberant green, with beautiful trees, creeks and waterfalls, mountainous terrain and high peaks. It has an excellent, well-marked trail system. Serious hikers climb the 1012m to the summit of Pico da Tijuca. It’s hard to reach without a car.

Búzios
Búzios sits on a jutting peninsula scalloped by 17 beaches. A simple fishing village until the early ’60s, when it was ‘discovered’ by Brigitte Bardot and her Brazilian boyfriend, it’s now one of Brazil’s most upscale and animated seaside resorts, littered with boutiques, fine restaurants, villas, bars and posh pousadas. The Mediterranean touch introduced by the Portuguese has not been lost – indeed, the narrow cobblestone streets and picturesque waterfront contribute to Búzios’ image as Brazil’s St Tropez.
Búzios is not a single town but rather three settlements on the same peninsula – Ossos, Manguinhos and Armação de Búzios. Ossos (Bones), at the northern tip of the peninsula, is the oldest and most attractive. It has a pretty harbour and yacht club, plus a few hotels and bars. Manguinhos, on the isthmus, is the most commercial. Armação, in between, is the heart of town, with the most tourist amenities.
The biggest draws in Búzios are the natural setting plus its endless array of opportunities for relaxation, nightlife, shopping and ocean sports.
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Ilha Grande
The fabulous island retreat of Ilha Grande owes its pristine condition to its unusual history. For centuries, the island’s unsavory reputation – first as a pirate’s lair, then as a leper colony and penitentiary – kept developers at bay. Consequently, beautiful tropical beaches and virgin Atlantic rainforest (now protected as state parkland) abound, and the island still has only a handful of settlements.
Vila do Abraão, Ilha Grande’s main town, was just a sleepy fishing village until the mid-1990s, when the infamous prison was destroyed and tourism began in earnest. Despite the influx of outsiders, Abraão, with its palm-studded beachfront and tidy orange church, remains small by mainland standards, and the prevailing rhythm is agreeably slow, thanks in large part to the absence of motorized vehicles. By day, life is all about exploring the island’s dozens of trails and beaches, while evening brings half the town down to socialize by the waterfront.
Posted around town are maps showing 16 different signposted trails leading through the lush forest to several of the island’s 102 beaches. When visiting some beaches, it’s possible to hike one way and take a boat the other.
Facing the Atlantic, the seemingly endless beach of Praia Lopes Mendes - with its good surfing waves - is considered by some the most beautiful in Brazil. It’s accessible by Ilha Grande’s most popular walking trail, a three-hour, 6.1km trek that starts at the eastern end of Abraão’s town beach, crosses the hills to Praia de Palmas, then follows the coast to Praia do Pouso. Alternatively, take a boat from Abraão to Pouso. From Pouso, it’s a 15-minute walk to Lopes Mendes.
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Paraty
Backed by steep, jungled mountains plunging into an island-studded bay, Paraty enjoys one of Brazil’s most spectacular settings and an exquisitely preserved colonial center, recognized as a National Historic Site since 1966. The area surrounding Paraty is really a nature-lover’s paradise, offering some of south-eastern Brazil’s prettiest coastal and mountain scenery.
araty has some 65 islands and 300 beaches in its vicinity. To visit the less accessible beaches, take an organized schooner tour. Multiple boats depart daily from the Cais de Turismo at the south-eastern edge of the historic center. Alternatively, you can hire one of the small motorboats at the port for a private tour. Local captains know some great spots and will take you out for around R$100 per hour, which can be a good deal if you have a large enough group.

São Paulo
São Paulo is home to 20 million fiercely proud paulistanos (as residents are known), all of whom will happily tell you at length to you how they’d never live elsewhere. Spend time with them and the reasons will soon unfold. Maybe they will introduce you to the city’s innumerable art-house cinemas and experimental theatres. If they’re gourmands, they’ll focus on the smart bistros and gourmet restaurants that make the city a world-renowned foodie haven. Of course, it’s also enormous, intimidating and, at first glance at least, no great beauty (to say nothing of the smog, the traffic, the crumbling sidewalks and the gaping divide between poor and rich).
The atmospheric old center of São Paulo lies between Praça da Sé, Luz metro station and Praça da República. Cleverly titled Centro Velho, it’s a pedestrianized maze offering a fascinating cornucopia of architectural styles (always look above the ground floors, which have all lost their charm to everyday shops). Other interesting neighbourhood strolls are found in Liberdade, Sampa’s Japan town (also home to other Asian communities); and Vila Madalena, the artistic quarter. Both host lively weekend street markets, the former at Praça da Liberdade on Sunday, the latter at Praça Benedito Calixto on Saturday.

Belo Horizonte
Belo Horizonte was named for its beautiful view of nearby mountains. Urban sprawl may make it a little more challenging to appreciate the natural setting nowadays, but Brazil’s third-largest city still has considerable charm.
Walk down the buzzing cosmopolitan streets of the Savassi neighbourhood on a Saturday evening, eat at one of the fine restaurants in Lourdes, stroll through the densely packed stalls at Mercado Central, attend the exuberant weekend street fair alongside leafy Parque Central, and you’ll see that Belo Horizonte has countless dimensions. For easier walking access to the city’s main attractions, stay near Praça da Liberdade or elsewhere within the central zone delineated by the Av do Contorno ring road.
Fans of modernist architect Oscar Niemeyer won’t want to miss his creations dotted around a huge artificial lake in the Pampulha district, north of downtown. Over the last decade Belo Horizonte has opened several worthwhile museums and cultural attractions in the former government buildings surrounding Praça da Liberdade; for information on all of these, visit www.circuitoliberdade.mg.gov.br/pt-br/visite-br.

Ouro Preto
Reached from Belo Horizonte, the gateway to the pretty colonial hill towns of Minas Gerais: if you have time for only one, Ouro Preto is it, a beguiling collection of steep cobbled streets and elegant Baroque churches.
Of all the exquisite colonial towns scattered around Minas Gerais, Ouro Prêto is the jewel in the crown. Built at the feet of the Serra do Espinhaço, Ouro Prêto’s colonial center is larger and has steeper topography than any other historical town in Minas. The narrow, crooked streets of the upper and lower towns tangle together and in places are too rough and precipitous for vehicles. Navigating the vertiginous cobblestone slopes on foot can be exhausting, but the views of 23 churches spread out across the hilly panorama are spectacular. The city is a showcase of outstanding mineiro art and architecture, including some of Aleijadinho’s finest works.
There are virtually no 20th-century buildings in this colonial town. As you wander, watch for informative historical plaques that have been placed on 150 houses around town to heighten visitors’ curiosity and expand their knowledge of the city’s treasures – part of a citywide cultural initiative known as Museu Aberto/Cidade Viva.

Curitiba
Known as Brazil’s eco-evolved capital and famous for its efficient urban planning, Curitiba is one of Brazil’s metropolitan success stories, with pleasant parks, well-preserved historic buildings, little traffic congestion and a large university population.

Paranaguá
Paranaguá is the embarkation point for ferries to idyllic Ilha do Mel. Colourful but now faded buildings along the colonial waterfront create a feeling of languid tropical decadence.

Ilha do Mel
This hourglass-shaped island at the mouth of the Baía de Paranaguá is the most picturesque beach resort in all of southern Brazil, offering mostly wild beaches, good surfing waves and scenic coastal walks. Accessible only by boat, Ilha do Mel is traversed by sandy paths and has not a single car, so traffic jams throughout the island’s scenic sandy lanes consist of surfboard-toting Brazilians on bicycles and bedazzled foreigners in their new Havaianas (flip-flops).
Ilha do Mel has no shortage of beaches. Praia da Fora and Praia Grande are a 20-minute walk (2km) from Nova Brasília and a 40-minute walk (4km) from Encantadas. Praia do Farol is the long stretch of sand between the Nova Brasília dock and the Farol das Conchas (an 1872 lighthouse that’s a great spot for watching the sunset). Surfers congregate at the base of the hill and ride the legendary Ondas das Paralelas.
If you didn’t bring your surfboard, you might prefer the calmer, warmer waters of the beaches that face the shallow bay. In the north, Praia da Fortaleza, often nearly deserted, allows you to bathe in the shadow of the 18th-century Portuguese fort. The best beach near the settlement of Encantadas is Praia da Fora, which has big waves and a few stalls selling cervejas (beers) and sucos (fruit juices).

Ilha de Santa Catarina
Ilha de Santa Catarina has a vibrant and varied coastline, from the calm, crowded bays of the north, to the wild, cliff-hugging beaches south. But it’s not just the beaches that make this island so enchanting. A forest of protected pines shelters the east coast, while the dunes near Praia da Joaquina create a lunar landscape. The spine of mountains, luxuriant with the Mata Atlântica (Atlantic rainforest), drops precipitously down to the lovely Lagoa da Conceição.
Though technically speaking, the whole island is Florianópolis, it’s downtown Floripa, known as Centro, that is both the political capital of Santa Catarina, the cultural capital of southern Brazil and the gateway to the rest of the island. The island’s bairros (districts) can feel like completely different towns, with their own distinct personalities and infrastructure.
Surfing, kitesurfing and diving outfits line the beach at Barra da Lagoa, on the island’s eastern shore. A few kilometres south, try your hand at sand boarding on the dunes at Praia da Joaquina or stand-up paddling at Lagoa da Conceição.
The island’s southern tip offers excellent hiking, including the one-hour trek through lush forest from Pântano do Sul to pristine Lagoinha do Leste beach, and whale watching from June to November.

Parque Nacional de Aparados da Serra
This magnificent national park is 18km from the town of Cambará do Sul, approximately 200km northeast of Porto Alegre. The most famous attraction is the Cânion do Itaimbezinho, a fantastic narrow canyon with dramatic waterfalls and sheer escarpments of 600m to 720m.
Two easy self-guided trails, Trilha do Vértice (2km return) and Trilha Cotovelo (6km return), lead from the park’s visitor center to waterfalls and canyon vistas; the more challenging Trilha do Rio do Boi follows the base of the canyon for 7km; it also requires a guide and is closed during rainy season.

Porto Alegre
Porto Alegre is a good introduction to progressive Rio Grande do Sul. Built on the banks of the Rio Guaíba, this lively, modern port has a well-preserved neoclassical downtown, with handsome plazas, good museums, and a vibrant arts and music scene.
Praça 15 de Novembro, site of the 1869 Mercado Público, is the centerpiece of the city. The old building bustles during daytime hours, when vendors sell fresh produce, meats and seafood, as well as the all-important erva maté for chimarrão (tea).

Foz do Iguaçu
The stupendous roar of 275 waterfalls crashing 80m into the Rio Iguaçu seems to create a low-level buzz of excitement throughout the city of Foz, even though the famed Cataratas (falls) are 20km southeast of town. Apart from the waterfalls, you can dip into the forests of Paraguay or check out Itaipu Dam, one of the world’s largest hydroelectric power plants.
Hotels and agencies in Foz do Iguaçu offer tours to the Argentine park for around R$50 to R$120 (transport only). It’s possible to save a bit of cash and a few hours if you opt to go independently

Cataratas do Iguaçu
The Iguazu (also called Iguassu) Falls are composed of 275 separate cascades, which make it the largest broken waterfall in the world. Made up of a chain of waterfalls that are fed by the Iguazu River, this powerful phenomenon sits on the border of Argentina and Brazil. Set amongst lush forests, this is a truly breath-taking spectacle as thousands of litres of water tumble down the steps of the Parana Plateau. A highlight of any visit to the Iguazu Falls is a stop at Devil’s Throat, a narrow u-shaped chasm that offers excellent photographic opportunities.
Once you’re in the park and ready to visit the falls, take the Parque Nacional do Iguaçu bus to the third stop at Belmond Hotel das Cataratas. Here you can pick up the main waterfall observation trail, Trilha das Cataratas (‘Waterfall Trail’), a 1200m trail following the shore of the Iguaçu River, terminating at the Garganta do Diabo.

Brasília
Brasília, conceived as a workable, utopic answer to urban chaos, replaced Rio as capital in 1960 and remains an impressive monument to national initiative. The purpose-built city is lauded by many for its avant-garde design. It’s not only a pilgrimage for architecture buffs but also foodies, night owls and those seeking a unique travel experience.
- Brasília’s major edifices are spread along a 5km stretch of the Eixo Monumental and are listed in northwest–southeast order. Further south, in the ‘cockpit’ of the airplane ground plan, are the most interesting government buildings: Palácio do Itamaraty, Palácio da Justiça and Congresso Nacional.
- Santuário Dom Bosco is made of 80 concrete columns that support 7400 pieces of illuminated Murano glass, symbolizing a starry sky, which cast a blue submarine glow over the pews. The central chandelier weighs 2.5 tons and adds an amazing 435 light bulbs’ worth of energy to the monthly electricity bill.
- The 16 curved ribs of the Catedral Metropolitana rises to the crown of the iconic exterior coupled with the light-filled circular interior, which sits under a dome of wavy stained-glass, make this cathedral a heavenly sight. At the entrance are Ceschiatti’s haunting Four Disciples statues; he also created the aluminium angels hanging inside. Wearing shorts and visiting during Mass are not encouraged.

The Pantanal
This vast natural paradise, covering an estimated 210,000 sq km and stretching into Paraguay and Bolivia, is Brazil’s major ecological attraction and offers a density of exotic wildlife found nowhere else in South America. During the rainy season (December to April), the Rio Paraguai and lesser rivers of the Pantanal inundate much of this low-lying region, creating cordilheiras (vegetation islands above the high-water level). The waters here in the world’s largest freshwater wetlands rise as much as 3m above low-water levels around March in the northern Pantanal and as late as June further south.
This seasonal flooding, while severely limiting human occupation of the area, provides an enormously rich feeding ground for wildlife, including 650 bird species and 80 mammal species, such as jaguars, ocelots, pumas, maned wolf, deer, anteaters, armadillos, howler and capuchin monkeys, and tapirs. The waters teem with fish; birds fly in flocks of thousands and gather in enormous rookeries. In dry season (July to November), when animals concentrate around limited water sources, the wildlife spotting is nothing short of spectacular. For nature and animal lovers, the Pantanal is Brazil’s Eden.
The principal access towns where you can arrange tours are Cuiabá in the north (for the Transpantaneira) and Campo Grande in the south (for the Estrada Parque), with Corumbá on the Bolivian border more of a sideshow these days. Tours from Cuiabá tend to be slightly more expensive, but more professional, with smaller groups and better-trained guides than those from either Campo Grande or Corumbá. They also go deeper into the Pantanal. Tours generally include transportation, accommodations, meals, hikes, horse-riding excursions and boat rides.

Cuiabá
Cuiabá is a boomtown basking in the relentless Mato Grosso sun. It’s actually two sister cities separated by the Rio Cuiabá: Old Cuiabá and Várzea Grande (where the airport is located).

Parque Nacional da Chapada dos Guimarães, the Mirante de Geodésia lookout (South America’s geographical center) and the colourful rocky outcrops known as Cidade de Pedra.
This high plateau 60km northeast of Cuiabá is a beautiful region reminiscent of the American Southwest. Its three exceptional sights are the 60m falls Cachoeira Véu de Noiva providing Guimarães’ most transcendent moment. Véu de Noiva is the only part of the park you can visit independently. Otherwise, a certified guide is required. Access is split among three day-trip circuits:
- Circuito das Cachoeiras (Waterfall Circuit; www.icmbio.gov.br; entry only with authorized guide; 8:30am-5pm, last entry noon), which takes in six waterfalls;
- Circuito Vale do Rio Claro (Rio Claro Valley; 8am-5pm, last entry 1pm) and its lush valley views and forest-pool snorkelling;
- Roteiro da Caverna Aroe Jari e Lagoa Azul (Aroe Jari Cave Circuit; from R$250 per person), which includes Brazil’s largest sandstone cave.

Poconé
This dusty frontier town is a place travelers invariably have to pass through on their way to the Transpantaneira ‘highway.’ It’s so sleepy that, as one local put it, ‘In Poconé, even the restaurants close for lunch!’ This place is unlikely to detain you for longer than a meal stop, though those driving themselves to a lodge along the Transpantaneira might consider overnighting here to get an early start and catch sight of the wildlife in action on the way.

Campo Grande
Gateway to the southern Pantanal, Campo Grande is a vast, modern metropolis, where high-rises tower above the shopping malls and streets are lined with restaurants.
Built on the site of a Bororo burial ground, the Museu das Culturas Dom Bosco (www.mcdb.org.br) is a superb museum that provides an unmissable introduction to the indigenous people as well as the flora and fauna of the Mato Grosso region.

Bonito
This small aquatic playground in the southwestern corner of Mato Grosso do Sul has few attractions of its own, but the natural resources of the surrounding area are spectacular, and local authorities have taken the high road in their regulation and maintenance. There are caves with lakes and amazing stalactite formations, beautiful waterfalls and incredibly clear rivers surrounded by lush forest where it’s possible to swim eyeball to eyeball with hundreds of fish. In the high season, the most popular tours must be booked in advance, preferably months in advance in the case of small capacity attractions like Abismo Anhumas. You’ll need several days to take in the best of Bonito.

Abismo Anhumas
Rappel into a gigantic, beautiful cave that culminates in an underground lake. After you make it down the 72m, it’s time for a spin around the lake to admire the beautiful rock formations. Then you dive (license required) or snorkel in the frigid underwater world (visibility 30m), with phallic pinnacles rising from the depths, before climbing back out. A heart-stopping experience.

Buraco das Araras
A sunset visit to Buraco das Araras, one of the world’s largest sinkholes, is usually tagged on to a day out at Rio da Prata and Laguna Misteriosa. It’s a 1km walk, complete with two viewpoints, that allows you to watch dozens of scarlet macaws flying home to roost, their metallic cries piercing the air. An impressive spectacle.

Corumbá
A gracefully aging river-port city close to the Bolivian border. Known as Cidade Branca (White City), it is 403km northwest of Campo Grande by road. The city sits atop a steep hill overlooking the Rio Paraguai; on the far side of the river, a huge expanse of the Pantanal stretches out on the horizon. One of Brazil’s biggest and best Carnaval celebrations really makes this hot, sleepy backwater come to life.

Morro de Sao Paulo
One of Brazil’s most fashionable and fun resort towns, just south of Salvador.

Praia do Francês
Close to the congenial resort city of Maceió, this is a fabulous, chilled-out beach backed with excellent places to eat and drink.

Olinda
Brazil’s picture-perfect colonial enclave is a languid, liberal ensemble of Baroque architecture, art galleries and live music.

Porto de Galinhas
Transformed from sleepy port town to hip resort in just a few years, with a hypnotic strip of perfect white sand and a party crowd at night.

Parque Nacional dos Lençóis
This spectacular national park is made up of 1550 sq km of rolling white dunes. It’s best visited from May to September, when rainwater forms crystal-clear lakes between the sandy hills. The main access point is the rather unprepossessing town of Barreirinhas, set on a bend of the picturesque Rio Preguiças near the park’s southeast corner.
If you have at least two nights to spend in the area, there are two other access points well worth the effort. The remote village of Atins is sandwiched between dunes, river and ocean at the mouth of the Rio Preguiças. Santo Amaro is on the park’s western border, where the dunes come right to the edge of the village. There are sandy river beaches for bathing here even when the lagoons among the dunes are dry. Both villages are far more charming than Barreirinhas.

Salvador
Salvador da Bahia has an energy and unadorned beauty that few cities can match. Once the magnificent capital of Portugal’s New World colony, today Salvador is the pulsating heart of the country’s AfroBrazilian community. Aside from the many attractions within Salvador, a gorgeous coastline lies right outside the city – a suitable introduction to the tropical splendour of Bahia.
The Cidade Alta (the Pelourinho and Carmo) is packed with the city’s most impressive sights, though you’ll also find worthwhile museums in Vitória, a wonderfully scenic lighthouse in Barra and other fascinating attractions scattered about the city.

Lençóis
Lençóis is the prettiest of the old diamond-mining towns in the Chapada Diamantina, a mountainous wooded oasis in the dusty sertão (backlands of the Northeast). The surrounding area is the real attraction: caves, waterfalls, idyllic rivers and panoramic plateaus set the stage for some fantastic adventures.
Numerous local agencies offer a wide range of outdoor activities, including hiking, rappelling, climbing, kayaking, mountain biking and horseback riding, in Parque Nacional da Chapada Diamantina (www.guiachapadadiamantina.com.br). There are also great hikes leaving from town that the adventurous can undertake without a guide.
- One lovely hike is a 3km walk out of town, following the Rio Lençóis upstream. You first pass a series of rapids known as Cachoeira Serrano; off to the right is the Salão de Coloridas Areias (Room of Colored Sands), where artisans gather material for bottled-sand paintings. You then pass Poço Halley (Swimming Hole), and the Cachoeirinha and Cachoeira da Primavera waterfalls. The second walk follows Rua São Benedito 4km southeast out of town to Ribeirão do Meio, a series of swimming holes with a natural waterslide.
- Southwest of Lençóis, Parque Nacional da Chapada Diamantina comprises 1520 sq km of breathtaking scenery, waterfalls, rivers, monkeys and striking geology. Standout sights near Lençóis include Poço Encantado, a cave filled with stunningly beautiful blue water, Lapa Doce, another cave with impressive formations, Cachoeira da Fumaça, Brazil’s highest waterfall (420m), and Morro do Pai Inácio, a mesa-style peak affording an awesome view over a plateau-filled valley.
The park has little infrastructure (trails are unmarked) and bus services are infrequent; your best bet is to go with an organized tour or a certified guide.

Morro de Sao Paulo
Trendy, isolated Morro, across the bay from Salvador and reached by boat, is known for nightlife but still has a tranquil charm along its pedestrianized main street running between three jungle-topped hills.
The beaches, with their shallow, warm water, disappear with the tides, liberating you for a hike to the waterfall, a round-the-island boat trip, a visit to the quieter neighbouring island of Boipeba or sunset-watching from the fort. A short climb from the boat dock brings you to Morro’s main square. From here, follow Caminho da Praia down to the beaches, which are named in numerical order; most of the action is around Segunda (Second) and Terceira (Third) Praias, a 10- to 15-minute walk from the Praça.

Itacaré
Beautiful Itacaré has long been sought out by hippies and surfers mesmerized by wide stretches of virgin Atlantic rainforest, picturesque beaches and reliable surf breaks. Countless pousadas (guesthouses) and restaurants now pack the streets; still, a mellow, youthful vibe prevails, surf culture reigns supreme, and many establishments in the area are committed to environmentally friendly practices (look for the Carbon Free Tourism sign proudly posted around town).

Ilhéus
Bright, early-20th-century architecture and oddly angled streets lend a vibrant and rather whimsical air to slightly rough-around-the-edges Ilhéus. The town’s fame comes from its history as a prosperous cocoa port, as well as being the hometown of Jorge Amado, the celebrated Brazilian novelist, who used it as the setting for one of his best novels, Gabriela, Cravo e Canela (Gabriela, Clove and Cinnamon). The city’s reputation as a tourist destination has been rising in the past few years, with plenty of visitors from elsewhere in Brazil stopping through to tour the historic center and lounge on the beaches south of the city.

Porto Seguro
Historically, Porto Seguro is significant: it’s the point where Portuguese sailors first set foot on the land now known as Brazil. But apart from its small historic center and colourful colonial houses, the city is more a popular destination for hordes of Brazilian and Argentinian package tourists, here for beach action and nightlife. It’s also favoured by rowdy high schoolers on school-break holidays. Many travellers linger in town only long enough to catch the ferry toward the lovely coastline and mellow village of nearby Arraial d’Ajuda.
- Motivation is required to climb the stairs to Porto Seguro’s old town. Rewards include colourful historic buildings and sweeping views over the coastline. Warning: the area is beautifully illuminated at night, and definitely worth a look, but the steps are not safe after dark. Take a taxi.
- North of town is one long bay dotted with barracas (food stalls) and clubs creating the Orla Norte (North Coast): Praia Curuípe (3km), Praia Itacimirim (4km), Praia Mundaí (6km), Praia de Taperapua (7km) and Praia do Mutá (10km.) The sands are white and fluffy, backed by green vegetation lapped by a tranquil sea, dotted with big beach clubs.
- Most dining and drinking options are found around the Passarela do Álcool (Alcohol Walkway). At night, the passarela has craft stalls and street performers, with live music spilling onto the plazas.

Arraial d’Ajuda
Perched on a bluff above long sandy beaches, Arraial has a curious blend of upmarket tourism and chilled backpackers. Squat buildings painted bright colours surround a traditional plaza; roads lined with pousadas, bars and restaurants slope down to the beaches. Arraial caters to both partiers and those looking to unwind in the tropics.
The closest beach to town is crowded Praia Mucugê, but a short walk south brings you to dreamy Praia de Pitinga and other gorgeous beaches beyond. Several ATMs cluster around the center.
Head to the main square at night for inexpensive crepes, tapioca, caipirinhas (cocktails) and traditional Bahian plates of rice, beans and grilled steak; or stop at one of the gourmet ice-cream stands along Rua do Mucugê.

Caraíva
For end-of-the-road tranquility, head south from Trancoso to captivating Caraíva, a sandy hamlet tucked between a mangrove-lined river and a long churning surf beach. It’s all the more peaceful given the absence of cars. In low season, Caraíva all but shuts down. There are no ATMs – bring cash.
Boat trips upriver, to the spectacular beaches north of town or south to Parque Nacional de Monte Pascoal, are easily organized through local pousadas, as are horse rides or walks to Barra Velha, an indigenous Pataxó village 6km from Caraíva. A 14km walk, boat trip or bus ride north brings you to celebrated Praia do Espelho, widely regarded as one of Brazil’s top 10 beaches.
To fully appreciate Caraíva’s magic, stay overnight. Accommodations range from simple campsites to high-end ocean-front cottages. The Aruanda Hostel has simple dorm rooms set amid lush grounds near the village center, while the Pousada Lagoa is an eco-minded spot with stylish bungalows and an enticing restaurant-bar.

Trancoso
Perched atop a grassy bluff overlooking the ocean, this small tropical paradise centers on the utterly picturesque Quadrado, a long grassy expanse with a white church flanked by low colourful houses, rooted in the town’s history as a Jesuit mission. At night everyone turns out to lounge at outdoor restaurants surrounding the twinkling square. The beaches south of Trancoso are gorgeous, especially Praia do Espelho (20km south), off the road to Caraíva. ATMs are readily available.

Maceió
Maceió, bustling high-rise-dotted capital of Alagoas state, offers reef-sheltered swimming in an emerald sea along its lengthy waterfront. The swaying palms of the city shoreline are seductive, but the real beach jewels are out of town, just an hour away.
Picturesque jangadas (traditional wooden fishing boats of Northeastern Brazil) sail 2km out from Praia de Pajuçara, offering opportunities to snorkel in natural pools formed by the reef. Praia de Ponta Verde and Jatiúca are good city beaches with calm water. Pretty Praia do Francês (24km), lined with beach bars, is Maceió’s major weekend destination and has lots of pousadas. Further south, Praia do Gunga sits across a river from Barra de São Miguel (34km). Less crowded beaches north of town include Garça Torta (12km), Riacho Doce (14km) and Ipioca (23km). Another worthwhile excursion is to Pontal da Barra (8km south of Maceió), a popular spot to purchase traditional Alagoan filé (crochetwork) and embark on scenic four-hour lagoon cruises.

Recife
Recife (‘heh-see-fee’), one of the Northeast’s major ports and cities, is renowned throughout Brazil for its dance and musical heritage. The bustling, decidedly gritty commercial center, with water on all sides, is busy during the day but deserted at night and on Sunday. Quieter Recife Antigo, on Ilha do Recife, has picturesque colonial buildings. Most travellers stay in Boa Viagem – an affluent suburb south of the center backing a long golden beach – or in Recife’s more peaceful sister city, Olinda.
The old city has many restored noble buildings with explanatory panels in English. Strolling through Recife Antigo, you can admire the colourful houses and historic synagogue on Rua Bom Jesus and the customs-building-turned-shopping-mall Paço Alfândega (www.pacoalfandega.com.br). A key old city landmark is Marco Zero, a small ‘Km 0’ marker near the waterfront, designating the place where the Portuguese founded Recife in 1537. Across in Centro, Pátio de São Pedro is a pretty cobbled square lined with characterful buildings under the gaze of a handsome baroque church.

Olinda
Pretty Olinda, set around a tree-covered hill 6km north of Recife, is the artsy, colonial counterpart to the big city’s hubbub. It’s an artist colony full of creative types and brimming with galleries, artisans’ workshops, museums, lovely churches and music in the streets. With twisting streets of colourful old houses and gorgeous vistas over treetops, church towers and red-tile roofs, this is one of the best-preserved and prettiest colonial towns in Brazil.
The historic center is easy to navigate and delightful to wander. Climb up to Alto da Sé, which affords superb views of both Olinda and Recife. The area is peppered with food, drink and craft stalls.

Praia da Pipa
Pipa is one of Brazil’s magical destinations: pristine beaches backed by tall cliffs, dreamy lagoons, decent surfing, dolphin- and turtle filled waters, a great selection of pousadas, hostels, global restaurants and good nightlife. During high season, tiny Praia da Pipa attracts partygoers from Natal, João Pessoa, Recife and beyond, but remains appealingly low key at other times.
Guiana dolphins rest and frolic in Baía dos Golfinhos, accessible via Pipa’s main beach about two hours on either side of low tide. Several other worthwhile beaches are easily accessed by walking or van, including surfer favorite Praia do Amor just south of town; rental boards and lessons are readily available. Another popular destination is Lagoa de Guarairas, 8km north of town; Praia do Madeiro curves northward from the headland at the far end of Baía dos Golfinhos and is perhaps Pipa’s most enchanting stretch of sand.
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Natal
Rio Grande do Norte’s capital is a clean, bright and rather bland city that has swelled as a hub for coastal package tourism, much of it catering to Brazilian families. Its main attractions are touristic beaches, buggy rides and other organized excursions. Most visitors stay in the beach neighbourhood of Ponta Negra, about 12km southeast of the city center; it’s a striking location, overlooked by fantastic dunes, with steady surf and some lively nightlife.

Canoa Quebrada
Easily reached from Fortaleza, this fishing village turned hippie hangout has become upmarket, but still represents a relaxing seaside spot for a few days of downtime. Hard-packed beaches backed by rust-coloured cliffs are pleasant, and outdoor adventures abound, including beach-buggy tours to Ponta Grossa and nearby dunes.

Fortaleza
Considering its isolation, Fortaleza is a surprisingly large and sprawling place. It’s one of Brazil’s biggest cities, and an economic magnet for people from Ceará and beyond. It’s also a draw for tourists from Brazil and overseas, who come for its beaches, party atmosphere and the spectacular smaller beach spots, rolling dunes and fishing villages accessible from here.

Jericoacoara
Jericoacoara, known to its many friends simply as ‘Jeri,’ is one of Brazil’s most cinematic destinations. Lodged between a magnificent national park and the sea, it enchants travellers with its perfect combination of hard-to-reach location (access is by unpaved tracks through the dunes), stunning coastal scenery, exciting activities, excellent pousadas (guesthouses) and restaurants, and fun nightlife. During the day, its beaches, dunes and lagoons are postcard-worthy; at night, illuminated by moonlight and the lights of inviting boutiques and restaurants, it oozes atmosphere. While it’s no longer a tranquil hippie haven, Jeri’s allure remains undeniable and it’s a must-visit on any Northeast itinerary.
Whatever you do, don’t miss the nightly pilgrimage to watch the sunset atop Duna Pôr do Sol (Sunset Dune), a towering mountain of sand at Jeri’s western edge. Other popular activities include buggy trips to surrounding dunes and lakes, the 3km walk east of town to the rock arch Pedra Furada, and the traditional twilight capoeira circle on Jeri’s main beach.

São Luís
The World Heritage-listed historical center of São Luís is an enchanting neighborhood of steamy cobbled streets and pastel-colored colonial mansions, some handsomely restored, many crumbling. It’s a charming area with a unique atmosphere and one of the Northeast’s best concentrations of museums, galleries and craft stores. Unfortunately, a general sketchiness pervades some of its streets after dark.
The city as a whole has a markedly AfroBrazilian tinge to its culture, from a lively reggae scene to its highly colorful festivals.
São Luís sits at the northwest corner of the 50km-long Ilha de São Luís, which is separated from the mainland only by narrow channels.
The center of São Luís has the best-preserved colonial neighborhood in the Northeast; it’s full of 18th- and 19th-century mansions covered in colorful 19th-century European azulejos (decorative ceramic tiles; often blue, or blue and white). The historical center has been under piecemeal restoration under Projeto Reviver (Project Revival) since the late 1980s, following many decades of neglect and decay. Many of the restored buildings house interesting museums, galleries, craft shops and restaurants.

Alcântara
Across the Baía de São Marcos from São Luís is the colonial town of Alcântara. Built using slave labor between the 17th and 19th centuries, Alcântara was once the preferred residence of Maranhão’s rich plantation owners. In decline since the latter half of the 19th century, Alcântara today is an atmospheric amalgam of ruined, maintained and restored mansions, houses and churches set along streets of artistic crisscrossed cobblestones.
Alcântara is a straightforward day trip from São Luís, but an overnight stay here is enjoyable and allows more time for exploring and for excursions to colonies of red ibis. Don’t miss the broad, hilltop Praça da Matriz, where the best-preserved pelourinho (whipping post) in Brazil stands beside the shell of the 17th-century Igreja de São Matias.

Belém
The eastern gateway to the Amazon region and a destination in its own right, Belém is worth at least a couple of days of your life. It’s a rewarding city, with streets and parks shaded by mango trees, the pastel facades of once-decadent mansions now fading in the tropical sun, as well as a number of fascinating museums, pungent markets and decent restaurant-bars. It’s also a launchpad for overnight trips to Algodoal and Ilha de Marajó, both appealing coastal destinations.
The compact Comércio business district, roughly between Av Presidente Vargas and Av Portugal, is noisy by day and deserted by night. The quieter Cidade Velha (Old City) contains Belém’s historical buildings. East of the center, prosperous Nazaré has some chic shops and restaurants.
The ‘Old City’ has most of Belém’s museums and galleries, fronting the river and four nearly adjoining plazas.

Algodoal
The small fishing village of Algodoal on Ilha de Maiandeua exchanges cars and paved roads for expansive views over firm, windswept beaches and a sometimes turbulent sea. A popular getaway for young belenenses, Algodoal is jam-packed during a few frenetic months in the summer and over certain holidays, and virtually abandoned during down periods. If you catch it when it’s quiet, it’s one of northern Brazil’s best hideaways. It’s 180km northeast of Belém.
Algodoal has various options for do-it-yourself excursions. Renting a canoe (ask at your hotel) and combining it with hiking are the most common ways to get active.

Ilha de Marajó
The 50,000-sq-km Ilha de Marajó, slightly larger than Switzerland, lies at the mouth of the Amazon River and is generally considered to be the largest river island in the world. It was the ancient home of the Marajoaras indigenous culture, notable for their large ceramic burial urns. Marajó remains a world apart, where bicycles outnumber cars and water buffalo graze around town.
Only the island’s eastern shore is accessible to tourists, with three small towns: Joanes (the smallest), Salvaterra (with the best beach but not much else) and Soure (the laid-back ‘capital’ of Marajó). The island’s interior is wetland, home to thousands of birds, including the graceful guará (scarlet ibis). Be aware that Marajó is very wet from January to June.

Joanes
It may be just across the river from Belém, but sleepy Joanes is all about total and complete isolation. The essence of its appeal is simple: a lovely hotel and beach, the remains of a 17th-century Jesuit church and hardly a soul in sight (aside from the grazing livestock).

Salvaterra
About 18km north of Joanes, Salvaterra has more of a town feel and the island’s best and longest beach, Praia Grande.

Soure
Located on the far side of the Rio Paracauari, Soure is the biggest town on the island. Nevertheless, it has a very laid-back vibe, with horses and water buffalo grazing on the soccer fields and double-wide streets, many of them dirt or grass with a bike path weaving down the middle.
A 4.5km bike ride north of Soure leads to Praia Barra Velha, where shacks sell drinks and seafood. Beyond lies Praia de Araruna, a long, starkly beautiful and practically deserted beach. Alternatively, follow Rua 4 inland to Praia do Pesqueiro (12km), another popular weekend beach.

Santarém
Most travellers rush between Belém and Manaus, skipping over the very thing they are desperate to see: the Amazon. A stop in riverfront Santarém not only breaks up a long boat trip, but also provides a chance to investigate the jungle and communities seen from your hammock. Santarém itself is rather bland, but the lovely river beaches and beautiful rainforest preserves nearby may entice you to prolong your stay.
Santarém’s waterfront provides a nice perspective on the meeting of the waters between the tea-colored Rio Tapajós and the caféau-lait Rio Amazonas. The two flow side by side for a few kilometres without mingling.
The floodplains east and southeast of Santarém are among the Amazon’s most rewarding excursions. Flooded for much of the year, the plains are home to fabulous birdlife (including toucans and macaws), pink dolphins, howler monkeys, sloths and anacondas. The sunrise and sunset views are pure magic and there’s a real sense of tranquillity out here. Take an overnight boat trip, go canoeing through the flooded forest and relax far from the tourist hordes.

Floresta Nacional do Tapajós
One of the last and most accessible stretches of primary rainforest in the region, this 5440-sq-km protected area is the Amazon rainforest you always imagined. Wildlife includes numerous species of birds, elusive cats (including jaguar and ocelot), as well as howler monkeys, squirrel monkeys and capuchins. It’s recommended to visit with a guide and it’s likely to be one of your most memorable experiences.
The riverside villages of Maguarí and Jamaraquá have been hosting travelers the longest and have the most established accommodations, tours and other services. A third village, São Domingo, is at the entrance to the reserve and has modest tourist options as well. Primary rainforest is about a two-and-a-half-hour hike away from these villages.
All three villages have well-maintained forest trails. There are some lovely igarapés (inlets), too, with good canoeing and possibly animal-spotting when the water is high.

Alter do Chão
Alter do Chão, 33km west of Santarém, is an appealing, languid riverside town that’s popular with visitors from Santarém on weekends and during holiday periods. It’s best known for its Ilha do Amor (Island of Love), a picturesque island ringed by a white-sand beach directly in front of town.
But Alter do Chão is much more than a beach town. The lagoon it fronts (Lago Verde) can be explored by canoe or stand-up paddle board. It’s also the departure point for boat tours to nearby forest reserves and isolated communities, and has one of the best indigenous art stores in the Amazon region. Adventure sports are a natural fit for many visitors here. Rewarding options include stand-up paddling (SUP), windsurfing, kayaking, mountain biking and tree climbing (arbolismo in Portuguese). Ask at Mãe Natureza, Areia Branca Ecotour or Gil Serique for prices and availability.

Manaus
Manaus is the Amazon’s largest city, an incongruous urban metropolis in the middle of the jungle and a major port for seafaring vessels that’s 1500km from the ocean. The Amazonian rainforest has a population density half that of Mongolia, but the journey there invariably begins in (or passes through) this gritty, bustling city. Don’t be surprised if you feel a little out of whack.
Manaus is no architectural gem, but does have some genuinely rewarding sights, including a leafy zoo and an interesting beach-and-museum combo. It’s a place to stock up on anything you forgot to pack, make reservations and begin your journey out into the jungle, or refill your tank with beer and internet after a week in the forest.
Manaus is best enjoyed as a starting point for your Amazon adventure, not the end of your road into the Amazon.
Just beyond Manaus, the warm dark Rio Negro pours into the cool creamy Rio Solimões, but because of differences in temperature, speed and density, their waters don’t mix, instead flowing side by side for several kilometres. The bi-colour phenomenon occurs throughout the Amazon, but nowhere as dramatically as here. Day trips always include a stop here, and many tour operators at least pass by en route to their lodges. Never disappoints.

Reserva Florestal Adolpho Ducke
Spanning over 100 sq km, this ‘garden’ is actually the world’s largest urban forest. There’s a network of five short trails (guides and closed shoes required, two to three hours, free with admission) and an open-air museum that includes rotating exhibits on Amazonian flora and fauna and a spectacular 42-meter-high observation tower. It’s busier on weekends and free on Tuesday.

Novo Airão
On the other side of the Rio Negro from Manaus, Novo Airão has become an increasingly popular gateway for ecotours on the Rio Negro and its tributaries, including some of the Amazon’s most rewarding destinations, such as the Reserva Extrativista Baixo Rio Branco-Jauaperi and the Anavilhanas Archipelago. As a town, Novo Airão is also a smaller, more manageable alternative to Manaus, with a handful of good lodging, eating and shopping possibilities.
Typical excursions near Novo Airão run to neighboring riverside communities, the Parque Nacional de Anavilhanas, and a series of local caves (more like rocky overhangs). For something multiday and further afield, consider the Reserva Extrativista Baixo Rio Branco-Jauaperi (Xixuaú-Xipariná).

Porto Velho
Porto Velho is a vital link in Brazil’s agricultural economy, as soybeans and other products are shipped on huge barges from here down the Rio Madeira and transferred directly to ocean liners headed abroad. That same ride – albeit on a boat not a barge – draws some travellers up from Cuiabá and the Pantanal on the slow route to Manaus and the Amazon. The city itself has a few bright spots, but mostly serves as a transfer point.

Guajará-Mirim
In this pleasant backwater of a border town just opposite Guayaramerín (Bolivia), bushy trees shade red-earth-stained sidewalks from the relentless sun.

Rio Branco
Rio Branco, the capital of Acre, was founded in 1882 by rubber-tappers on the banks of the Rio Acre. Once a brash, uneasy town, Rio Branco has transformed itself into a genuinely pleasant place, with several excellent cultural outlets and easy access to some interesting sites, including Xapuri, the hometown of the environmentalist Chico Mendes.

Xapuri
This tidy little town of neat wooden houses along broad streets is one of the more rewarding spots in the Brazilian Amazon.