San José
Although San José is not that high on the list of most visitors to Costa Rica, take some time to poke around historic neighbourhoods like Barrio Amón, where colonial mansions have been converted into contemporary art galleries, restaurants and boutique hotels. Stroll with Saturday shoppers at the farmers market, dance the night away to live music at one of the city's vibrant clubs, or visit the museums, and you'll begin to understand the multidimensional appeal of Costa Rica's largest city and cultural capital.
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Plaza de la Cultura
This architecturally unremarkable concrete plaza in the heart of downtown is usually packed with locals slurping ice-cream cones and admiring the wide gamut of San José street life: juggling clowns, itinerant vendors and cruising teenagers. It is perhaps one of the safest spots in the city since there's a police tower stationed at one corner.
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Museo del Oro Precolombino
This three-in-one museum houses an extensive collection of Costa Rica's most priceless pieces of pre-Columbian gold and other artefacts, including historical currency and some contemporary regional art. The museum, located underneath the Plaza de la Cultura, is owned by the Banco Central and its architecture brings to mind all the warmth and comfort of a bank vault. Security is tight; visitors must leave bags at the door.

Parque Nacional
One of San José’s nicest green spaces, this shady spot lures in retirees to read newspapers and young couples to smooch coyly on concrete benches. At its center is the Monumento Nacional, a dramatic 1953 statue that depicts the Central American nations driving out American filibuster William Walker. The park is dotted with myriad monuments devoted to Latin American historical figures, including Cuban poet, essayist and revolutionary José Martí, Mexican independence figure Miguel Hidalgo and 18th-century Venezuelan humanist Andrés Bello.
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Barrio Amón
North and west of Plaza España lies this pleasant, historic neighbourhood, home to a cluster of cafetalero (coffee grower) mansions constructed during the late 19th and early 20th centuries. In recent years, many of the area’s historic buildings have been converted into hotels, restaurants and offices, making this a popular district for an architectural stroll. You’ll find everything from art-deco concrete manses to brightly painted tropical Victorian structures in various states of upkeep. It is a key arts center.

Parque Metropolitano La Sabana
Once the site of San José’s main airport, this 72-hectare green space at the west end of Paseo Colón is home to a museum, a lagoon and various sporting facilities – most notably Costa Rica's national soccer stadium. During the day, the park's paths make a relaxing place for a stroll, a jog or a picnic.
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Alajuela
Alajuela is by no means a tourist ‘destination.’ But it’s an inherently Costa Rican city, and, in its more relaxed moments, it reveals itself as such, where families have leisurely Sunday lunches and teenagers steal kisses in the park. It’s also a good base for exploring the countryside to the north.
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Parque Nacional Volcán Poás
Just 37km north of Alajuela by a winding and scenic road is Parque Nacional Volcán Poás, ideal for those who want to peer into an active volcano without the hardship of hiking one. Volcán Poás (2704m) had its last blowout in 1953, which formed the enormous crater measuring 1.3km across and 300m deep.
Poás offers the wonderful opportunity to watch the bubbling, steaming cauldron belch sulphurous mud and water hundreds of meters into the air. There are two other craters, as well. In recent years Poás has posed no imminent threat of eruption, though scientists still monitor it closely.
From the visitors center there is a paved, wheelchair-accessible 600m path that leads to a crater lookout. Visitors are prohibited from descending into the crater because of the toxic sulfuric-acid fumes that are emitted from the cauldron.
Upon leaving the lookout, you can simply retrace your steps to the parking lot, or continue touring the park on a series of trails that collectively make a 3.6km loop back to the main path. For the longer loop, head east from the the crater lookout onto Sendero Botos, a 1.4km, 30-minute trail that takes you through dwarf cloud forest, which is the product of acidic air and freezing temperatures. Here you can wander about looking at bromeliads, lichens and mosses clinging to the curiously shaped and twisted trees growing in the volcanic soil. Birds abound, especially the magnificent fiery-throated hummingbird, a high-altitude specialty of Costa Rica. The trail ends at Laguna Botos, a peculiar cold-water lake that has filled in one of the extinct craters.
From here, continue south on Sendero Canto de Aves, a 1.8km, 45-minute trail through taller forest, which gets significantly less traffic than the other parts of the park and is ideal for birdwatching. Species to look for include the sooty robin, black guan, screech owl and even the odd quetzal (especially from February to April). Although mammals are infrequently sighted in the park, coyotes and the endemic montane squirrel are present. Return to the main path via the 400m, 10-minute Sendero Escalonia, which will drop you at the restrooms just north of the visitors center.

Parque Nacional Braulio Carrillo
Enter this under-explored national park and you will have an idea of what Costa Rica looked like prior to the 1950s, when 75% of the country’s surface area was still covered in forest: steep hills cloaked in impossibly tall trees are interrupted only by cascading rivers and canyons. It has extraordinary biodiversity due to the range of altitudes, from steamy 2906m cloud forest alongside Volcán Barva to lush, humid lowlands on the Caribbean slope. Its most incredible feature, however, is that this massive park is only 30 minutes north of San José.
Three easy to moderate trails fan out from the Quebrada González ranger station between Guápiles and San José.
- On the north side of Hwy 32, the mostly flat, gravel-paved 1km Sendero El Ceibo is the easiest of the three, passing a giant ceibo tree, a scenic overlook and seven other marked points of interest before looping back to the ranger station. Proximity to the highway creates some distracting traffic noise here.
- Sendero Botarrama, a slightly more rugged spur trail (expect mud and exposed roots) branches off Sendero El Ceibo and continues another 1km to the junction of the crystal-clear Río Honduras with the Río Sucio (Dirty River), the yellow waters of which carry volcanic minerals.
- Back on the south side of Hwy 32, the 1.6km, gravel-paved Sendero Las Palmas is another loop trail that climbs moderately into dense rainforest – prime territory for birdwatching.
Climbing Volcán Barva is a strenuous adventure along a remote but reasonably well-maintained trail. Because of its relative inaccessibility, there is a good chance you will be alone.
Begin from the western entrance of the park, north of Heredia. From there a 2.5km signed track climbs to the summit. Trails are often muddy, and you should be prepared for rain at any time of the year.

Cartago
After the earthquake rubble was cleared, in the early 20th century, nobody bothered to rebuild Cartago to its former quaint specifications. As in other commercial towns, expect plenty of functional concrete structures. One exception is the bright white Basílica de Nuestra Señora de los Ángeles, which is visible from many parts of the city, standing out like a snow-capped mountain above a plain of one-story edifices.
The city is thrown briefly into the spotlight every August, when pilgrims from every corner of the country descend on the basilica to say their most serious prayers. The remainder of the year, Cartago exists mainly as a commercial and residential center, though the beauty of the surrounding mountains helps take the edge off modern life.
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Orosi
Orosi is one of the few colonial-era towns to survive Costa Rica’s frequent earthquakes, which have thankfully spared the photogenic village church. Built in 1743, it is the oldest religious site still in use in Costa Rica. The roof of the church is a combination of thatched cane and ceramic tiling, while the carved-wood altar is adorned with religious paintings of Mexican origin.

Paraíso

Ujarrás

Parque Nacional Tapantí-Macizo Cerro de la Muerte
This 580-sq-km national park protects the lush northern slopes of the Cordillera de Talamanca, and is the wettest park in the country, getting an average 8000mm of precipitation a year. In 2000 it was expanded to include the infamous Cerro de la Muerte (Mountain of Death). This precipitous peak is the highest point on the Interamericana and the northernmost extent of páramo, a highland shrub and tussock-grass habitat – most commonly found in the Andes – that's home to a variety of rare bird species.

Finca Cristina
Finca Cristina, 2km east of Paraíso on the road to Turrialba, is an organic coffee farm. Linda and Ernie have been farming in Costa Rica since 1977, and a 90-minute tour of their microbeneficio (mini-processing plant) is a fantastic introduction to the processes of organic-coffee growing, harvesting and roasting.

Turrialba
When the railway shut down in 1991, commerce slowed down, but Turrialba nonetheless remained a regional agricultural center, where local coffee planters could bring their crops to market. And with tourism on the rise in the 1990s, this modest mountain town soon became known as the gateway to some of the best white-water rafting on the planet. By the early 2000s Turrialba was a hotbed of international rafters looking for Class-V thrills. For now, the Río Pacuare runs on, but its future is uncertain.
Most organized expeditions from Turrialba head for the Río Pacuare, which arguably offers the most scenic rafting in Central America. The river plunges down the Caribbean slope through a series of spectacular canyons clothed in virgin rainforest, through runs named for their fury and separated by calm stretches that enable you to stare at near-vertical green walls towering hundreds of meters above. The Pacuare can be run year-round, though June to October are considered the best months.

Monumento Nacional Guyyabo de Turrialba
Nestled into a patch of stunning hillside forest 19km northeast of Turrialba is the largest and most important archaeological site in the country. Guayabo is composed of the remains of a pre-Columbian city that was thought to have peaked at some point in AD 800, when it was inhabited by as many as 20,000 people. Today visitors can examine the remains of old petroglyphs, residential mounds, an old roadway and an impressive aqueduct system – built with rocks that were hauled in from the Río Reventazón along a cobbled, 8km road. Amazingly, the cisterns still work, and (theoretically) potable water remains available on-site. In 1973, as the site’s importance became evident, Guayabo was declared a national monument, with further protections set forth in 1980. The site occupies 232 hectares, most of which remains unexcavated. It’s a small place, so don’t go expecting Mayan pyramids.
Getting There & Away
Buses from Turrialba (one hour) depart at 6am, 10:30am, 3pm and 6pm Monday through Friday and at 10:30am, 3pm and 6pm on Saturday and Sunday. Buses return from Guayabo to Turrialba at 7am, 12:30pm and 4pm daily. You can also take a taxi from Turrialba (about US$30 round trip, with one hour to explore the park).

Tortuguero
Located within the confines of Parque Nacional Tortuguero, accessible only by air or water, this bustling little village with strong Afro-Caribbean roots is best known for attracting hordes of sea turtles (the name Tortuguero means ‘turtle catcher’) – and the hordes of tourists who want to see them. While the peak turtle season is in July and August, the park and village have begun to attract travelers year-round. Even in October, when the turtles have pretty much returned to the sea, caravans of families and adventure travellers arrive to go on jungle hikes and to canoe the area’s lush canals.

Parque Nacional Tortuguero
This misty, green coastal park sits on a broad floodplain parted by a jigsaw of canals. Referred to as the ‘mini-Amazon,’ Parque Nacional Tortuguero’s intense biodiversity includes over 400 bird species, 60 known species of frog, 30 species of freshwater fish and three monkey species as well as the threatened West Indian manatee. Caimans and crocodiles can be seen lounging on river banks, while freshwater turtles bask on logs.
Over 120,000 visitors a year come to boat the canals and see the wildlife, particularly to watch turtles lay eggs. This is the most important Caribbean breeding site of the green sea turtle, 40,000 of which arrive every season to nest. Of the eight species of marine turtle in the world, six nest in Costa Rica, and four nest in Tortuguero. Various volunteer organizations address the problem of poaching with vigilant turtle patrols.
Park headquarters is at Cuatro Esquinas, just south of Tortuguero village. Sharks and strong currents make the beaches unsuitable for swimming.
Boating
Four aquatic trails wind their way through Parque Nacional Tortuguero, inviting waterborne exploration. Río Tortuguero acts as the entrance way to the network of trails. This wide, beautiful river is often covered with water lilies and is frequented by aquatic birds such as herons, kingfishers and anhingas – the latter of which is known as the snakebird for the way its slim, winding neck pokes out of the water when it swims. Caño Chiquero and Canõ Mora are two narrower waterways with good wildlife-spotting opportunities. According to park regulation, only kayaks, canoes and silent electric boats are allowed in these areas. Canoe rental and boat tours are available in Tortuguero village.
- Caño Chiquero is thick with vegetation, especially red guácimo trees and epiphytes. Black turtles and green iguanas like to hang out here.
- Caño Mora is about 3km long but only 10m wide, so it feels as if it’s straight out of The Jungle Book.
- Caño Harold is actually an artificially constructed canal, but that doesn’t stop the creatures – such as Jesus Christ lizards and caimans – from inhabiting its tranquil waters.
Hiking
Behind Cuatro Esquinas ranger station, the park currently has just one trail on solid ground. Visitors can hike the muddy, 2km out-and-back trail that traverses the tropical humid forest and parallels a stretch of beach. Green parrots and several species of monkey are commonly sighted here. The short trail is well marked. Rubber boots are required and are available for rent at hotels and near the park entrance.
The park is preparing to open a second hiking option, Cerro Tortuguero Trail. To reach the trailhead, guests will take boats to the town of San Francisco, north of Tortuguero village, where they will disembark at a new ranger station and buy a ticket (prices TBD). The trail then takes visitors 1.8km up a hill for a view of the surrounding lagoon, forest and ocean.

Puerto Limón
The biggest city on Costa Rica’s Caribbean coast sits removed from the rest of the country. Cruise ships deposit dazed-looking passengers between October and May. Around here, business is measured by truckloads of fruit, not busloads of tourists, so don’t expect any pampering.
A general lack of political and financial support from the federal government means that Limón is not a city that has aged gracefully. It is a grid of dilapidated buildings, overgrown parks and sidewalks choked with street vendors. Crime is a problem: the city, distressingly, has as many homicides annually as San José – even though San José has five times the population. It’s worth noting, however, that most of this violence is related to organized crime and does not affect travellers. Despite its shortcomings, Limón can be a compelling destination for adventurous urban explorers.

Cahuita
Even as tourism has mushroomed on Costa Rica’s southern coast, Cahuita has managed to hold onto its laid-back Caribbean vibe. The roads are made of dirt, many of the older houses rest on stilts and chatty neighbours still converse in Mekatelyu. A graceful black-sand beach and a chilled-out demeanour hint at a not-so-distant past, when the area was little more than a string of cacao farms.
Situated on a pleasant point, the town itself has a waterfront but no beach. For that, most folks make the five-minute jaunt up the coast to Playa Negra or southeast into neighbouring Parque Nacional Cahuita.

Parque Nacional Cahuita
This small but beautiful park – just 10 sq km – is one of the more frequently visited national parks in Costa Rica. The reasons are simple: the nearby town of Cahuita provides attractive accommodations and easy access; more importantly, the white-sand beaches, coral reef and coastal rainforest are bursting with wildlife.
An easily navigable 8km coastal trail leads through the jungle from Kelly Creek to Puerto Vargas. At times the trail follows the beach; at other times hikers are 100m or so away from the sand. At the end of the first beach, Playa Blanca, hikers must ford the dark Río Perezoso, or ‘Sloth River,’ which bisects Punta Cahuita. Inquire about conditions before you set out: under normal conditions, this river is easy enough to wade across, but during periods of heavy rain it can become impassable since it serves as the discharge for the swamp that covers the point.
The trail continues around Punta Cahuita to the long stretch of Playa Vargas. It ends at the southern tip of the reef, where it meets up with a road leading to the Puerto Vargas ranger station. Once you reach the ranger station, it's another 1.5km along a gravel road to the park entrance. From here, you can hike the 3.5km back to Cahuita along the coastal highway or catch a ride going in either direction.

Playa Negra
Playa Negra is a long, black-sand beach flying the bandera azul ecológica, a flag that indicates the beach is kept to the highest ecological standards. This is undoubtedly Cahuita’s top spot for swimming and is never crowded. When the swells are big, this place also has an excellent beach break for beginners.
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Playa Blanca
Almost immediately upon entering the park, you’ll see the 2km-long Playa Blanca stretching along a gently curving bay to the east. The first 500m of beach may be unsafe for swimming, but beyond that, waves are generally gentle. (Look for green flags marking safe swimming spots.) The rocky Punta Cahuita headland separates this beach from the next one, Playa Vargas. It is unwise to leave clothing or other belongings unattended when you swim.
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Puerto Viejo de Talamanca
There was a time when the only travellers to the little seaside settlement once known as Old Harbor were intrepid surfers who padded around the quiet, dusty streets, board under arm, on their way to surf Salsa Brava. That, certainly, is no longer the case. This burgeoning party town is bustling with tourist activity: street vendors ply Rasta trinkets and Bob Marley T-shirts, stylish eateries serve global fusion everything and intentionally rustic bamboo bars pump dancehall and reggaetón.
Despite that reputation, Puerto Viejo nonetheless manages to hold on to an easy charm. Stray a couple of blocks off the main commercial strip and you might find yourself on a sleepy dirt road, savouring a spicy Caribbean stew in the company of local families. Nearby, you’ll find rainforest fruit and cacao farms set to a soundtrack of cackling birds and croaking frogs, and wide-open beaches where the daily itinerary revolves around surfing and snoozing. So, chill a little. Party a little. Eat a little. You’ve come to just the right place.

Playa Cocles
Playa Cocles has impressive waves for surfers who aren't so keen to break skin and bones on nearby Salsa Brava (Costa Rica's biggest break). It has lefts and rights, which both break close to the steep beach. Conditions are usually best from December to March, and early in the day before the wind picks up.
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Salsa Brava
Breaking on the reef that hugs the village is the famed Salsa Brava, a shallow break that is also one of the country’s most infamous waves. It’s a tricky ride – if you lose it, the waves will plow you straight into the reef – and definitely not for beginners. Salsa Brava offers both rights and lefts, although the right is usually faster. Conditions are best with an easterly swell.

Sixaola
This is the end of the road – literally. Bumpy tarmac leads to an old railroad bridge over the Río Sixaola that serves as the border crossing into Panama. Like most border towns, Sixaola is hardly scenic: it’s an extravaganza of dingy bars and roadside stalls selling rubber boots. There's really no good reason to stay in Sixaola.

Parque Nacional Volcán Arenal
From 1968 until 2010, Volcán Arenal was an ever-active and awe-striking natural wonder, producing menacing ash columns, massive explosions and streams of glowing molten rock almost daily. While the fiery night views are gone for now, this mighty mountain is still a worthy destination. Part of the Area de Conservación Arenal, the park is rugged and varied, with about 15km of well-marked trails that follow old lava flows. Hikers routinely spot sloths, coatis, howler monkeys, white-faced capuchins and even anteaters.
Parque Nacional Volcán Arenal is west of La Fortuna. The main park entrance is on the road to El Castillo (turn off the main road 13km west of town). It’s easiest to reach the park by car or on a tour. Otherwise, take any bus to Tilarán and ask the driver to let you off at the turnoff.
The volcano may be dormant, but plenty of adventure still awaits you here. There are trails to hike, waterfalls to rappel down, and innumerable sloths to spot. No matter what your preferred method of exploring – hiking, biking, horseback riding, zip lining – you can do it here.

Waterfall Río Fortuna
You can glimpse the sparkling 70m ribbon of clear water that pours through a sheer canyon of dark volcanic rock arrayed in bromeliads and ferns with minimal sweat equity. But it’s worth the climb down and out to see it from the jungle floor. Though it’s dangerous to dive beneath the thundering falls, a series of perfect swimming holes with spectacular views tiles the canyon in aquamarine. This is also the trailhead for the difficult hike to Cerro Chato.

Cerro Chato Trail
The ultimate hike in the national park, the Cerro Chato Trail meanders through pasture before climbing steeply into patches of virgin growth, reaching into misty sky. The trail crests Cerro Chato, Arenal’s dormant partner, and ends in a 1100m-high volcanic lake that is perfect for a dip. The hike is only 8km round trip, but it will take two to three hours each way.

Tilarán
Near the southwestern end of Laguna de Arenal, the small town of Tilarán has a laid-back, middle-class charm thanks to its long-running status as a regional ranching center. Nowadays, it’s also the main commercial center for the growing community of expats that resides along the shores of Laguna de Arenal.
Most visitors, however, are just passing through, traveling between La Fortuna and Monteverde. Because it’s situated on the slopes of the Cordillera de Tilarán, this little hub is a much cooler alternative (in climate and atmosphere) than the towns along the Interamericana.

Los Chiles
Seventy kilometres north of Muelle on a smooth, paved road through the sugarcane, and just 6km south of the Nicaraguan border at Las Tablillas, lies the sweltering farming and fishing town of Los Chiles. Arranged with dilapidated grace around a ragged soccer field and along the unmanicured banks of the leisurely Río Frío, the humid lowland village is charming by border-town standards (sex workers and foreboding ‘import-export’ types notwithstanding). It was originally settled by merchants and fisherfolk who worked on the nearby Río San Juan, much of which forms the Nicaragua–Costa Rica border.
With the opening of the border crossing at Las Tablillas, international travellers are no longer obligated to pass through Los Chiles, though the scenic boat ride across the border is a pleasant way to go. This is also a good base for enjoying the water route to Caño Negro.
With the new border crossing at Las Tablillas, it’s usually possible to cruise right by Los Chiles without spending the night. If that doesn’t work for you, you’ll find a limited selection of hotels in town.

Caño Negro
This remote, 102-sq-km refuge (Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Caño Negro) has long lured anglers seeking that elusive 18kg snoek, and birders hoping to glimpse rare waterfowl. During the dry season water levels drop, concentrating the birds (and fish) in photogenically (or tasty) close quarters. From January to March, when migratory birds land in large numbers, avian density is most definitely world class.
Thanks to improved roads, tour operators are now able to offer relatively inexpensive trips to Caño Negro from all over the country. However, you don’t need them to explore the river. It’s much more intriguing and rewarding to rent some wheels (or hop on a bus), navigate the rutted road into the rural flat lands and hire a local guide right in the center of Caño Negro village. It’s also a lot cheaper, and it puts money directly into the hands of locals, thus encouraging communities in the area to protect wildlife.

Monteverde & Santa Elena
Spread out on the slopes of the Cordillera de Tílaran, this area is a sprawling chain of villages, farms and nature reserves. The biggest population center – the village of Santa Elena – runs almost seamlessly into its next-door neighbor Cerro Plano and its next next-door neighbor, tiny Monteverde (which borders the namesake reserve).
The Reserva Bosque Nuboso de Monteverde (Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve) is the most famous one, but there are public and private properties of all shapes and sizes – from tiny family fincas to the vast Children’s Eternal Rainforest – that blanket this whole area in luscious green. As a result, there are trails to hike, birds to spot, waterfalls to swim and adventures to be had everywhere you turn.

Reserva Biológica Bosque Nuboso Monteverde
This beautiful reserve came into being in 1972, when the Quaker community, spurred on by the threat of encroaching squatters, joined forces with environmental and wildlife organizations to purchase and protect an extra 328 hectares (811 acres) of land. This fragile environment relies almost entirely on public donations to survive. Today, the reserve totals 10,500 hectares (25,946 acres).

Reserva Santa Elena
The exquisitely misty 310-hectare Reserva Santa Elena offers a completely different cloud forest experience to Monteverde. Cutting through the veiled forest, the 10km of dewy trails see much less traffic, retaining a magic that is sometimes missing at Monteverde. Open since 1992, this reserve was one of the first community-managed conservation projects in the country. The reserve itself is about 6km northeast of the village of Santa Elena. There’s a simple restaurant, coffee shop and gift store. Note that all proceeds go toward managing the reserve as well as to environmental-education programs in local schools.

Cerro Amigos
Take a hike up to the highest peak in the area (1842m) for good views of the surrounding rainforest and, on a clear day, Volcán Arenal, 20km away to the northeast. Behind Hotel Belmar in Cerro Plano, take the dirt road going downhill, then the next left. The trail ascends roughly 300m in 3km. Note that this trail does not connect to the trails in the Monteverde reserve.

Curi-Cancha Reserve
Bordering Monteverde but without the crowds, this lovely private reserve on the banks of the Río Cuecha is popular among birders. There are about 10km of well-marked trails, a hummingbird garden and a view of the continental divide. Make reservations for the guided hikes, including the early-morning bird walks and specialized three-hour natural history walks.

Liberia
The sunny rural capital of Guanacaste has long served as a transportation hub connecting Costa Rica with Nicaragua, as well as being the standard-bearer of Costa Rica’s sabanero culture. Even today, a large part of the greater Liberia area is involved in ranching operations, but tourism is fast becoming a significant contributor to the economy. With an expanding international airport, Liberia is a safer and more chilled-out alternative Costa Rican gateway to San José, which means more travellers are spending a night or two in this sweet town, knitted together by corrugated-tin fencing, mango trees and magnolias.

Parque Nacional Rincón de la Vieja
Given its proximity to Liberia – really just a hop, a skip and a few bumps away – this 141-sq-km national park feels refreshingly uncrowded and remote. The name means ‘old lady’s nook,’ and it’s named after the active Volcán Rincón de la Vieja (1895m), the steamy main attraction. The park also covers several other peaks in the same volcanic range, including the highest, Volcán Santa María (1916m). The park exhales geothermal energy. It bubbles with multihued fumaroles, tepid springs and steaming flatulent mud pots, as well as a young and feisty volcancito (small volcano). All of these can be visited on foot on well-maintained steep trails. Note the Las Pailas sector is closed on Monday.
From the Santa María ranger station, there are some 12km worth of hiking trails which take in the hot springs. Since the 2012 eruptions the trek to the summit of Rincón de la Vieja is no longer open to the public.
- A circular trail known as Sendero Las Pailas – about 3km in total – takes you east of Las Pailas ranger station, past boiling mud pools (las pailas), sulfurous fumaroles and a volcancito. This is the most popular (and most crowded) section of the park, as it’s an easy but worthwhile trail with a lot to see.
- About 350m west of the Las Pailas ranger station are two waterfall trails. Catarata La Cangreja is the classic, dropping 50m straight from a cliff into a small lagoon where you can swim. Dissolved copper salts give the falls a deep blue color. This trail winds through forest, past truly massive strangler figs, then on to open savannah spiked with yucca on the volcano’s flanks, where views stretch as far as the Palo Verde wetlands and the Pacific beyond.
- In the Sector Santa María, a trail leads 2.8km west through the ‘enchanted forest,’ past the lovely Catarata Bosque Encantado (Enchanted Forest Falls), to sulfurous hot springs. Don’t soak in them for more than about half an hour (some people suggest much less) without taking a dip in the nearby cold springs, 2km away, to cool off. If you want real-deal, volcano-created thermal pools, here they are: it doesn't get more ‘natural’ than this.

La Cruz
La Cruz is the closest town to the Peñas Blancas border crossing with Nicaragua, and it’s the principal gateway to Bahía Salinas, Costa Rica’s premier kitesurfing destination. La Cruz itself is a fairly sleepy provincial town set on a mountaintop plateau, with lots of Tico charm and magical views of an epic wind-swept bay. El Mirador is a required stop, to stretch your legs and widen your worldview.

Playas del Coco
Sportfishing is the engine that built this place, while deep-sea diving has become an additional attraction. You'll mingle with the foreign-born anglers and divers at happy hour (it starts rather early). That said, there is an actual Tico community here, and plenty of Tico tourists. Stroll along the grassy beachfront plaza at sunset and gaze upon the wide bay, sheltered by long, rugged peninsular arms, the natural marina bobbing with motorboats and fishing pangas (small motorboats). All will be right in your world.
Sportfishing, sailing, scuba diving and sea kayaking are popular activities that keep the troops entertained. Sea kayaks are perfect for exploring the rocky headlands to the north and south of the beach.

Playa Tamarindo
Well, they don’t call it Tamagringo for nothing. Tamarindo’s perennial status as Costa Rica’s top surf and party destination has made it the first and last stop for legions of tourists. It stands to reason, then, that this is the most developed beach on the peninsula with no shortage of hotels, bars and restaurants.
Thankfully, Tamarindo is more than just drinking and surfing. It forms part of Parque Nacional Marino Las Baulas de Guanacaste, and the beach retains an allure for kids and adults alike. Foodies will find some of the best restaurants in the country. Families and students will appreciate the fierce competition that has kept lodging prices reasonably low. And Tamarindo’s central location makes it a great base for exploring the northern peninsula.
Like a gift from the surf gods, Tamarindo is often at its best when neighboring Playa Grande is flat. The most popular wave is a medium-sized right that breaks directly in front of the Tamarindo Diria hotel. The waters here are full of virgin surfers learning to pop up. There is a good left that’s fed by the river mouth, though be advised that crocodiles are occasionally sighted here, particularly when the tide is rising (which is, coincidentally, the best time to surf). There can be head-high waves in front of the rocks near Le Beach Club.
More advanced surfers will appreciate the bigger, faster and less crowded waves at neighboring beaches: Playa Langosta, on the other side of the point; Playas Avellanas, Negra and Junquillal to the south; and Playa Grande to the north.

Parque Nacional Marino Las Baulas de Guanacaste
Las Baulas national marine park encompasses the entire beach at Playa Grande, as well as the adjacent land and 220 sq km of ocean. Playa Grande is one of the world's most important nesting areas for the baula (leatherback turtle). In the evenings from October to March, rangers lead tours for visitors to witness this amazing cycle of life. Canoe tours explore the mangroves, which are home to caimans and crocodiles, as well as numerous bird species such as the roseate spoonbill.

Playa Sámara
On the surface it's just an easy-to-navigate beach town with barefoot, three-star appeal. The crescent-shaped strip of pale-grey sand spans two rocky headlands, where the sea is calm and beautiful. But be careful, the longer you stay the less you'll want to leave.
No matter what you like to do at the beach, you can probably do it at Playa Sámara. Expert surfers might get bored by Sámara’s inconsistent waves, but beginners will have a blast. Otherwise, there's hiking, horseback riding and sea kayaking, as well as snorkelling out around Isla la Chora. Take a break from the beach to explore the forested hillsides on foot or on zip line.

Mal País to Santa Teresa
Surfing is the raison d'être for most visits to Santa Teresa and Mal País, and perhaps for the town itself. Most travellers want to do little else, except maybe stretch their muscles with a little yoga. That said, it's a gorgeous, pristine coastline: horseback riding or fishing trips can be easily arranged. The entire area unfurls along one coastal road that rambles from Santa Teresa in the north through Playa El Carmen, the area's commercial heartbeat, then terminates in the fishing hamlet of Mal País.

Montezuma
Montezuma is an immediately endearing beach town that demands you abandon the car to stroll, swim and (if you can stroll a little further) surf. The warm and wild ocean and that remnant, ever-audible jungle has helped this rocky nook cultivate an inviting, boho vibe. Typical tourist offerings such as canopy tours do a brisk trade here, but you’ll also bump up against Montezuma's internationally inflected, artsy-rootsy beach culture in yoga classes, volunteer corps, veggie-friendly dining rooms and neo-Rastas hawking uplifting herbs.
Unfortunately, the accommodations are particularly poor value, and the eateries can be that way too (though there are some absolute gems). But in this barefoot pueblo, which unfurls along several kilometres of rugged coastline, you're never far from the rhythm and sound of the sea, and that is a beautiful thing.
The best beach close to town is just north of Cocolores restaurant, where the sand is powdery and sheltered from big swells. This is your glorious sun-soaked crash pad. The water's shade of teal is immediately nourishing, the temperature is perfect and fish are abundant. At the north end of the beach, look for the trail that leads to a cove known as Piedra Colorada. A small waterfall forms a freshwater pool, which is a perfect swimming spot.

Montezuma Waterfalls
40-minute river hike leads to a waterfall with a delicious swimming hole. Further along the trail, a second set of falls offers a good clean 10m leap into deep water. Reach the 'diving platform' from the trail: do not try to scale the slippery rocks!
As you head south past Hotel La Cascada, there's a parking area, then take the trail to the right just after the bridge. You'll want proper hiking footwear.

Reserva Natural Absoluta Cabo Blanco
Costa Rica’s oldest protected wilderness area covers 12 sq km at the tip of the Peninsula de Nicoya. The unique park is covered by evergreen forests, bisected by a hiking trail and flanked by empty white-sand beaches and offshore islands. Follow the Sendero Sueco (Swedish Trail), which leads 4.5km down to a magnificent, jungle-backed beach at the tip of the peninsula. Note that the reserve is closed on Monday and Tuesday.

Puntarenas
The `Pearl of the Pacific' is a battered port city at the tip of a sandy peninsula (8km long but only 100m to 600m wide). Lively and hot, this provicial capital served as a major coffee port during the 19th century. During the dry season, Tico vacationers pack the beaches. Otherwise, it's the home of rowdy dockworkers and sailors alongside elderly ladies who scrub their sidewalks and keep the bougainvillea's blooming. Most travellers come here just to catch the ferry to the Nicoya peninsula.

Parque Nacional Carara
Situated at the mouth of the Río Tárcoles, the 52-sq-km park is only 50km southeast of Puntarenas by road or about 90km west of San José via the Orotina highway. Straddling the transition between the dry forests of Costa Rica’s northwest and the sodden rainforests of the southern Pacific lowlands, this national park is a biological melting pot of the two. Acacias intermingle with strangler figs, and cacti with deciduous kapok trees, creating heterogeneity of habitats with a blend of wildlife to match, including the scarlet macaw and Costa Rica's largest crocodiles. The park's three trails can easily be explored in half a day; come early to maximize wildlife sightings.
Any bus traveling between Puntarenas and Jacó can leave you at the park entrance. You can also catch buses headed north or south in front of Restaurante Los Cocodrilos. This may be a bit problematic on weekends, when buses are full, so go midweek if you are relying on a bus ride. If you’re driving, the entrance to Carara is right on the Costanera and is clearly marked.

Crocodile Bridge
If you’re driving from Puntarenas or San José, pull over by the Río Tárcoles bridge, also known as Crocodile Bridge. If you scan the sandbanks below the bridge, you’ll have a fairly good chance of seeing as many as 30 basking crocodiles. Although they’re visible year-round, the best time for viewing them is low tide during the dry season.

Jacó
Jacó was the first town on the central Pacific coast to explode with tourist development and it remains a major draw for backpackers, surfers, snowbirds and city-weary josefinos (inhabitants of San José). Although working-class Tico neighborhoods are nearby, open-air trinket shops and tour operators line the tacky main drag which, at night, is given over to a safe but somewhat seedy mix of binge-drinking students, surfers and scantily clad ladies of negotiable affection.
While Jacó's lackadaisical charm is not for everyone, the surfing is excellent, the restaurants and bars are generally great and the nightlife can be a blast.
Although the rainy season is considered best for Pacific coast surfing, Jacó is blessed with consistent year-round breaks. Even though more advanced surfers head further south to Playa Hermosa, the waves at Jacó are strong, steady and a lot of fun for intermediate surfers. Jacó is also a great place to learn to surf or start a surf trip as many places offer lessons and it’s easy to buy and sell boards here.

Mt Miros
A worthwhile pastime that few tourists are aware of is following the trail up Mt Miros, which winds through primary and secondary rainforest and offers spectacular views of Jacó and Playa Hermosa. The viewpoint is several kilometres uphill. Note that the trailhead is unmarked, so ask a local to point it out to you.

Quepos
Located just 7km from the entrance to Manuel Antonio, the small, busy town of Quepos serves as the gateway to the national park, as well as a convenient port of call for travellers in need of goods and services. Although the Manuel Antonio area was rapidly and irreversibly transformed following the ecotourism boom, Quepos has largely retained an authentic Tico feel.
While many visitors to the Manuel Antonio area prefer to stay outside Quepos, accommodations in town are generally very good value, and there's a burgeoning restaurant scene that belies the town's small size. Quepos is also gridded with easy-to-walk streets, which provide the opportunity to interact with the friendly locals.

Manuel Antonio
As you travel the road between Quepos and Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio, the din from roaring buses, packs of tourists and locals hunting foreign dollars becomes increasingly loud, reaching its somewhat chaotic climax at Manuel Antonio village.
Hordes descend on this tiny oceanside village at the entrance to the country’s most visited national park. Don't show up all bright-eyed and bushy-tailed, expecting deserted beaches and untouched tropical paradise. Higher primates tend to be the most frequently sighted species, especially during the congested dry season, when tour groups arrive en masse.
But come here in low season or on a Monday, and you'll find a tranquil little village with waves sedately lapping at the white sand. And, when troops of monkeys climb down from the forest canopy to the tropical sands, you can get up close and personal with some marvellous wildlife.

Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio
Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio is the country's smallest (just 19.83 sq km) and most popular national park. A clearly marked trail system winds through rainforest-backed white-sand beaches and rocky headlands, the wildlife (iguanas, sloths, monkeys) is plentiful, and the views across the bay to the pristine outer islands are gorgeous.
The downside? The crowds. Get here early (7am) and head for the furthest reaches of the park for a bit of tranquillity and the best chances to spot wildlife.
Swimming
There are four beautiful beaches – three within the park and one just outside the park entrance. The beaches are often numbered – most people call Playa Espadilla (outside the park) ‘1st beach,' Playa Espadilla Sur '2nd beach,' Playa Manuel Antonio '3rd beach,' Playa Puerto Escondido ‘4th beach’ and Playa Playitas ‘5th beach.' Some people begin counting at Espadilla Sur, which is the first beach in the park, so it can be a bit confusing trying to figure out which beach people may be talking about. Regardless, they’re all equally pristine, and provide sunbathing opportunities; check conditions with the rangers to see which ones are safe for swimming.
Hiking
Parque Manuel Antonio has an official road, Sendero El Perezoso, that's paved and wheelchair-accessible and connects the entrance to the network of seven short trails. None of them are strenuous, all are well marked and heavily traversed, though there are some quiet corners near the ends of the trails. Off-trail hiking is not permitted. A new trail was added in 2015, its boardwalk parallel to the Sendero Principal; it provides a quieter alternative to the crowds along the main stretch.

Dominical
Dominical hits a real sweet spot with the travellers who wander up and down its rough dirt road with a surfboard under an arm, balancing the day's activities between surfing and hammock hang time. And although some may decry the large population of expats and gringos who have hunkered down here and the sheer volume of cars on its main street, proud residents are quick to point out that Dominical recalls the mythical ‘old Costa Rica’ – the days before the roads were all paved, and when the coast was dotted with lazy little towns that drew a motley crew of surfers, backpackers and affable do-nothings alike. Dominical has no significant cultural sights, no paved roads and no chain restaurants, but for those who come here to surf or to swing in a hammock, the place is just right.

Uvita
Just 17km south of Dominical, this sweet little village consists of a few dirt roads, lined with farms, guesthouses and tiny shops, a cluster of strip malls by the main Costanera Sur entrance, and a scattering of hotels in the jungle-covered hills above. With its gentle pace of life, it should give you a good idea of what the central Pacific coast was like before the tourist boom. Uvita's main attraction is Parque Nacional Marino Ballena, a pristine marine reserve famous for its migrating pods of humpback whales and its virtually abandoned wilderness beaches, but there are also good waterfalls nearby.
Uvita is a perfect base for exploring Costanera Sur, which is home to some truly spectacular, and largely empty beaches, as well as an exhilarating natural water slide in the shape of Cascada Verde

San Isidro de El General
San Isidro de El General is the fastest-growing urban area outside the capital. Little more than a sprawling, utilitarian market town at the crossroads between some of Costa Rica's prime destinations, it's a place where few travellers choose to linger. f you're traveling to the southern Pacific beaches or Chirripó, a brief stop is inevitable. Some accommodations options just outside the town environs are worthy destinations in their own right. The heart of San Isidro is the network of narrow streets clustered around the Parque Central.

San Gerardo de Rivas
The tiny, tranquil, spread-out town of San Gerardo de Rivas is at the doorstep of Parque Nacional Chirripó. This is a place to get supplies, a good night’s rest and a hot shower before and after the trek.
Given how the park authorities have made it very difficult to obtain hiking permits to climb Chirripó (almost impossible for walk-ins), San Gerardo is doing its best to promote other activities, and its bird-filled alpine scenery makes it a beautiful place to linger. Those who don't have the time or energy to summit Chirripó can go on lovely, less-difficult hikes in its two private nature reserves, and there's rural tourism aplenty, from the local trout farm to local cheese- and chocolate-makers in nearby Canaan.
The road to San Gerardo de Rivas winds its way 22km up the valley of the Río Chirripó from San Isidro.

Cloudbridge Nature Reserve
About 2km past the trailhead to Cerro Chirripó you will find the entrance to the mystical, magical Cloudbridge Nature Reserve. Covering 182 hectares on the side of Cerro Chirripó, this private reserve is an ongoing reforestation and preservation project spearheaded by New Yorkers Ian and Genevieve Giddy. A network of trails traverses the property, which is easy to explore independently. Even if you don't get far past the entrance, you'll find two waterfalls, including the magnificent Catarata Pacifica.

Talamanca Reserve
With over 4000 acres of primary and secondary cloud forest, this private reserve has numerous hiking trails, the longest being a seven-hour trek, and another leading to its 10 waterfalls. Talamanca is doing its best to promote itself as an alternative to Parque Nacional Chirripó, and non-guests are welcome to hike its trails for a day fee of US$25. ATV tours are available both to guests and non-guests.

Parque Nacional Chirripó
While much of the Cordillera de Talamanca is difficult to access, Costa Rica’s highest peak, Cerro Chirripó (3820m), is the focus of popular two-day ascents from San Gerardo de Rivas. The only way up the peak is on foot, and although the trekking route is long and challenging, watching the sunrise from such lofty heights, literally above the clouds, is an undeniable highlight of Costa Rica. Most hikers go up to Crestones Base Lodge and summit at sunrise the following day.
It is essential that you stop at the ranger station in San Gerardo de Rivas at least one day before you intend to climb Chirripó to register your park permit (bring your reservation and payment confirmation). After you've done that, you have to confirm your Crestones Base Lodge reservation at the consortium office.

Palmar
At the intersection of the country’s two major highways, this crossroads town serves as a gateway to the Península de Osa and Golfo Dulce. This functional banana-growing settlement makes a convenient base for exploring the Sierpe area if you have a particular interest in pre-Columbian stone spheres (that the area is newly famous for), and the Festival de la Luz in December is worth stopping for.
Palmar is actually split in two – to get from Palmar Norte to Palmar Sur, take the Interamericana southbound over the Río Grande de Térraba bridge, then take the first right. Most facilities are in Palmar Norte, clustered around the intersection of the Carretera Interamericana and the Costanera Sur – if you're heading to Bahía Drake via Sierpe, this is your last chance to hit an ATM. Palmar Sur is home to the airstrip and a little park with an excellent example of a stone sphere.

Sierpe
This sleepy village on the Río Sierpe is the gateway to Bahía Drake, and if you’ve made a reservation with any of the jungle lodges further down the coast, you will be picked up here by boat. Beyond its function as a transit point, there is little reason to spend any more time here than necessary, though it's well worth taking a peek at one of the celebrated pre-Columbian stone spheres in the main square.

Bahía Drake
One of Costa Rica's most isolated destinations, Bahía Drake (drah-kay) is a veritable Lost World, bordered by Parque Nacional Corcovado to the south. In the rainforest canopy, howlers greet the rising sun with their haunting bellows, while pairs of macaws soar between the treetops, filling the air with their cacophonous squawking. Offshore in the bay itself, pods of migrating dolphins flit through turquoise waters near the beautiful Isla del Caño marine reserve.
One of the reasons why Bahía Drake is brimming with wildlife is that it remains largely cut off from the rest of the country. Life is centered around the sedate village of Agujitas, the area's transport hub, which attracts increasing numbers of backpackers and nature lovers with inexpensive digs and plenty of snorkelling, diving and wildlife-watching opportunities. The more remote corners of Bahía Drake are home to some of Costa Rica's best (and priciest) wilderness lodges.

Puerto Jiménez
Sliced in half by the swampy, overgrown Quebrada Cacao, and flanked on one side by the emerald waters of the Golfo Dulce, the vaguely Wild West outpost of Puerto Jiménez is shared equally by local residents and wildlife. While walking through the dusty streets of Jiménez (as it's known to locals), it’s not unusual to spot scarlet macaws roosting on the soccer field, or white-faced capuchins traversing the treetops adjacent to the main street.
On the edge of Parque Nacional Corcovado, Jiménez is the preferred jumping-off point for travellers heading to the famed Sirena ranger station, and a great place to organize an expedition, stock up on supplies, eat a hot meal and get a good night’s rest before hitting the trails.
Despite the region’s largest and most diverse offering of hotels, restaurants and other tourist services, this is very much a close-knit Tico community at its core.

Parque Nacional Corcovado
This national park takes up 40% of the Osa Peninsula and is the last great original tract of tropical rainforest in Pacific Central America. The bastion of biological diversity is home to half of Costa Rica’s species, including the largest population of scarlet macaws, as well as countless other endangered species, including Baird’s tapir, the giant anteater and the world’s largest bird of prey, the harpy eagle.
Corcovado’s amazing biodiversity as well as the park's demanding, multiday hiking trails have long attracted a devoted stream of visitors who descend from Bahía Drake and Puerto Jiménez to see the wildlife and experience a bona fide jungle adventure.
There are three main trails in the park that are open to visitors, as well as shorter trails around the ranger stations. Trails are primitive and the hiking is hot, humid and insect-ridden, but the challenge of the trek and the interaction with wildlife at Corcovado are thrilling. Carry plenty of food, water and insect repellent.
- The main route traverses the park from Los Patos to Sirena , then exits the park at La Leona (or vice versa).This allows hikers to begin and end their journey in or near Puerto Jiménez, offering easy access to La Leona and Los Patos.
- The most popular section is La Leona to Sirena , with an additional trail section running parallel to the beach trail for those who don't want to expose themselves to the relentless sun.
- The toughest day is the trek from La Tarde to Sirena via Los Patos – a whopping 30km.
A new El Tigre trail loop has been added that starts in Dos Brazos and dips into the park but doesn't join up with the rest of the trail network; you still have to pay the full park fee to hike it, though. Hiking is best in the dry season (from December to April), when there is still regular rain but all of the trails are open. It remains muddy, but you won’t sink quite as deep.
ll visitors to Corcovado must be accompanied by an ICT-certified guide. Besides their intimate knowledge of the trails, local guides are amazingly informed about flora and fauna, including the best places to spot various species.

Golfito
With a long and sordid history, spread-out Golfito is a rough-around-the-edges port that stretches out along the Golfo Dulce. The town was built on bananas – the United Fruit Company moved its regional headquarters here in the '30s. In the 1980s, declining markets, rising taxes, worker unrest and banana diseases forced the company’s departure.
In an attempt to boost the region’s economy, the federal government built the duty-free Zona Americana in Golfito. This surreal shopping mall Depósito Libre attracts Ticos and expats from around the country, who descend on the otherwise decaying town for 24-hour shopping sprees. There are a few other attractions, but Golfito is largely a transportation hub for hikers heading to Corcovado, surfers heading to Pavones and sport fishers.

Pavones
Home to the second-longest left-hand surf break on the planet, Pavones is a legendary destination for surfers the world over. As this is Costa Rica’s southernmost point, you’ll need to work hard to get down here. However, the journey is an adventure in its own right, especially since the best months for surfing coincide with the rainy season.
The village remains relatively off the beaten path, and though both foreigners and Ticos are transforming Pavones from its days as a relative backwater, Pavones' few streets are still unpaved, the pace of life is slow and the overall atmosphere is tranquil and New Agey.

Paso Canoas
The main port of entry between Costa Rica and Panama is hectic, slightly seedy and completely devoid of charm. As you might imagine, most travellers leave Paso Canoas with little more than a passing glance at their passport stamp.

Valle de Orosi
This straight-out-of-a-storybook river valley is famous for mountain vistas, a lake formed by a hydroelectric facility, a truly wild national park and coffee – lots and lots of coffee. A well-paved 32km scenic loop winds through a landscape of rolling hills terraced with coffee plantations and valleys dotted with pastoral villages, all set against the backdrop of two volcanoes, Irazú and Turrialba. If you have a rental car (or a good bicycle) you’re in for a treat, though it’s still possible to navigate most of the loop via public buses.
The loop road starts 8km southeast of Cartago in Paraíso, heads south to Orosi, then doubles back northeast and west around the artificial Lago de Cachí, passing the historic church at Ujarrás en route back to Paraíso. Alternatively, from Orosi you can branch south into Parque Nacional Tapantí-Macizo Cerro de la Muerte, an end-of-the-road national park with superb river and mountain scenery.
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