Helsinki
It’s fitting that harbourside Helsinki, capital of a country with such watery geography, melds so graciously into the Baltic. Half the city seems liquid, and the writhings of the complex coastline include any number of bays, inlets and islands.
Though Helsinki can seem a younger sibling to other Scandinavian capitals, it’s the one that went to art school, scorns pop music and works in a cutting-edge studio. The design scene here is legendary, whether you’re browsing showroom brands or taking the backstreet hipster trail. The city’s gourmet side is also flourishing, with new gastro eateries offering locally sourced tasting menus popping up at dizzying speed.
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Hanko
On a long, sandy peninsula, **Hanko** (Swedish: Hangö) grew up as a well-to-do Russian spa town in the late 19th century. During this period entrepreneurs and industrialists built opulent seaside villas, with fabulous Victorian and art-nouveau architectural detailing. These beauties are still a star attraction here, especially as many of them now house guesthouses and restaurants.
Summertime visitors flock to Hanko for sun and sand, and there are several attractive beaches. There's a party atmosphere throughout summer, especially around the huge Hanko Regatta in July. For island hoppers, Hanko's a good jumping-off point for the southern archipelago.
Hanko is a treasure trove of interesting architecture, with notable buildings by Lars Sonck, Selim Lindqvist and other renowned architects. Appelgrenintie, east of East Harbour, is an impressive stretch, featuring many fine 20th-century villas.
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Naantali
Most visitors to charming **Naantali** are summer day-trippers from Turku, 18km east. They come to meet their friends at Muumimaailma (Moominworld) or to browse the shops and galleries in the quaint Old Town. Out of season, Muumimaailma closes its gates and the Old Town acquires the melancholic air of an abandoned film set. But Naantali continues to work hard behind the scenes, with Finland’s third-busiest port, an oil refinery and an electricity plant. Surrounding the harbour, Naantali’s photogenic Old Town is made up of narrow cobbled streets and wooden houses, many of which now house handicraft shops, art galleries, antiques shops and cafes.
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Porvoo
Finland’s second-oldest town is a popular day or weekend trip from Helsinki. Porvoo (Swedish: Borgå) officially became a town in 1380, but even before that it was an important trading post. Its historic centre includes oft-photographed riverside warehouses that once stored goods bound for destinations across Europe. Away from the river, the cobblestone streets are lined with charming wooden houses of every colour. Birthplace of national poet Johan Runeberg, the town is peppered with signs commemorating his whereabouts on various occasions.
- **Vanha Porvoo** is one of Finland's most enticing old quarters, this tangle of cobbled alleys and wooden warehouses is entrancing. Once a vibrant port and market, Porvoo now has craft boutiques, galleries, souvenir stores and antique shops jostling for attention on the main roads, Välikatu and Kirkkokatu. The rows of rust-red storehouses along the Porvoonjoki are a local icon: cross the old bridge for the best photos. The relatively less-touristed area is east of the cathedral; Itäinen Pitkäkatu is one of the nicest streets.
- **Tuomiokirkko** is Porvoo’s historic stone-and-timber cathedral which sits atop a hill overlooking the quaint Old Town. This is where Tsar Alexander I convened the first Diet of Finland in 1809, giving Finland religious freedom. Vandalised by fire in 2006, the church has been completely restored, so you can admire the ornate pulpit and tiered galleries. The magnificent exterior, with free-standing bell tower, remains the highlight.
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Turku
Turku is Finland's second city – or first, by some accounts, as it was the capital until 1812. The majestic Turun Linna (Turku Castle) and ancient Tuomiokirkko (cathedral) – both dating from the 13th century – are testament to the city's long and storied past. Contemporary Turku is even more enticing, a hotbed of experimental art and vibrant music festivals, designer boutiques and innovative restaurants. University students populate the cafes and clubs, keeping the place buzzing. Through the age-old network of bustling streets and squares, the Aurajoki river meanders picturesquely, heading out to sea. For nature-lovers, Turku is the gateway to the glorious Turku Archipelago. As one of the country's main ports of entry (as many visitors arrive by ferry from Sweden and Åland), it's a wonderful introduction to mainland Finland.
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Eckerö
On the far-western edge of mainland Åland, Eckerö is the archipelago's closest point to mainland Sweden – just a two-hour ferry ride from Grisslehamn. While the island maintains an off-the-beaten-track atmosphere, it does contain a handful of excellent accommodation options and some offbeat but interesting sights. Eckerö is also home to Åland's loveliest stretch of sand at Degersand beach.
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Mariehamn
The capital of Åland, Mariehamn was named by Alexander II after the Empress Maria, and its broad streets lined with linden trees recall its Russian heritage. Nowadays it's a lively, touristy place and during summer, visitors flood the bike paths, tour boats and pavement cafes. The summer calendar is jam packed with music festivals and cultural fairs, and people stay out all night soaking up the midnight sun. Although two out of every five Ålanders live and work in Mariehamn, in summer, this workaday world fades into the background as holidaymakers take over the town.
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Sund
Sund is situated 30km from Mariehamn, just east of the main island group. It's connected to Saltvik by bridge, but it's still a long haul from the capital. It's worth the trip, however, as Sund is home to Åland's highlight attractions: the muscular medieval castle Kastelholm and the battle-scarred ruins of the Russian stronghold at Bomarsund. In the midst of these historic sights is the island's most talked-about eatery, Smakbyn, which spearheaded the locavore movement on Åland. Midway between [Kastelholm](http://www.kastelholm.ax/) and Bomarsund is Sund's largest town, Finby, with all services.
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Hämeenlinna
Dominated by its namesake [castle](http://www.kansallismuseo.fi/en/hame-castle), **Hämeenlinna** is Finland's oldest inland town, founded in 1649, though a trading post had existed here since the 9th century. The Swedes built the castle in the 13th century, and Hämeenlinna developed into an administrative, educational and garrison town around it. The town is quiet but picturesque, and its wealth of museums will keep you busy for a day or two. It makes a good stop between Helsinki and Tampere.

Jakobstad
In 1652, war widow Ebba Braha founded the town of Jakobstad in honour of her husband, Swedish war hero Jacob de la Gardie. The site was previously the harbour of the parish of the Pedersöre Kyrka. The church still stands today, lending its name to the town's Finnish name, Pietarsaari. But the Swedish identity runs deep, as more than half the population are Swedophone. Jakobstad's main attraction is its Skata (Old Town), which stretches for several blocks north of the centre. It contains some 300 of the best-preserved wooden houses in Finland, with the picturesque Gamla Hamn (Old Port) beyond.

Rauma
Centred on its lively *kauppatori* (market square), Rauma’s Old Town district, Vanha Rauma, is the largest preserved wooden town in the Nordic countries. The main pleasure here is simply meandering the quaint streets of this Unesco World Heritage site.
In the Middle Ages Rauma’s lacemakers ignored King Gustav Wasa’s order to move to Helsinki to boost the capital’s industry. By the 18th century Rauma was a thriving trade centre, thanks to the European fashion for lace-trimmed bonnets. Locals still turn out the delicate material, and celebrate their lacemaking heritage with an annual festival.
In the heart of modern Rauma, Vanha Rauma (the Old Town) remains a living centre, with cosy cafes, shops and a few artisans working in small studios; try to visit between Tuesday and Saturday, when everything is open and the town hums with life.
There are more than 600 18th- and 19th-century wooden buildings here, each with its own name – look for small oval nameplates near the door
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Tampere
Set between two vast lakes, scenic Tampere has a down-to-earth vitality and pronounced cultural focus that make it a favourite for many visitors. The Tammerkoski rapids churn through the centre, flanked by grassy banks that stand in contrast with the red brick of the imposing fabric mills that once drove the city's economy. Regenerated industrial buildings now house quirky museums, enticing shops, pubs, cinemas and cafes.
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Vaasa
Just 45 nautical miles from Sweden, the city has a significant Swedophone population, with a quarter of residents speaking Swedish as a first language.
The 17th-century town was named after Swedish royalty: the noble Wasa family. But 200 years later it was in Russian hands. The Old Town burned down in Vaasa’s Great Fire of 1852 – caused by a careless visitor who fell asleep and dropped his pipe – and the new city was built from scratch, 7km away from the cinders.
Vaasa has long been a family-holiday playground, with plenty of outdoor recreation and easy access to the Kvarken Archipelago. It's a cultural centre too, with three universities and a thriving arts scene, exemplified by its excellent museums.
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Ilomantsi
The closest North Karelian town to the Russian border, Ilomantsi has an Orthodox religion and its own dialect. There is a handful of interesting sights here, but with little tourist infrastructure you're better off visiting during the day and then heading for the national parks and scenic areas beyond.

Joensuu
At the egress of the Pielisjoki (Joensuu means ‘river mouth’ in Finnish), North Karelia's capital is a spirited university town, with students making up almost a third of the population. Joensuu was founded by Tsar Nikolai I and became an important trading port following the 1850s completion of the Saimaa Canal. During the Winter and Continuation Wars, 23 bombing raids flattened many of its older buildings, and today most of its architecture is modern. It’s a lively place to spend some time before heading into the Karelian wilderness.

Jyväskylä
Vivacious and modern, western Lakeland’s main town has a wonderful waterside location, an optimistic feel and an impeccable architectural pedigree. Thanks to the work of Alvar Aalto, who started his career here, Jyväskylä (yoo-vah-skoo-lah) is of global architectural interest. At the other end of the cultural spectrum, petrolheads around the world know it as a legendary World Rally Championships venue. The large student population and lively arts scenes give the town plenty of energy and nightlife.

Koli National Park
The magnificent 347m-high Koli inspired Finland’s artistic National Romantic era with artists including Pekka Halonen and Eero Järnefelt setting up their easels here. Koli was declared a national park in 1991 after intense debate between environmentalists and landowners. The area remains relatively pristine with more than 90km of marked walking tracks and superb cross-county and downhill skiing. Summer walking and winter skiing are the twin highlights here. Myriad other activities range from boating to horse riding and dog-sledding.
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Kuopio
**Kuopio** is the quintessential summery lakeside town, offering pleasure cruises on the azure water, hikes in spruce forests, tasty local fish specialities and plenty of terraces and beer gardens where you can enjoy a drink. Those visitors who are more interested in cultural diversions than the great outdoors will enjoy visiting the town's portfolio of museums; note that all of these are closed on Mondays.
-The views from the top of the 75m [Puijon Torni](http://www.puijo.com/) are very impressive; the vast perspectives of lakes and forests represent a sort of idealised Finnish vista. Atop the structure is a revolving restaurant, a daytime cafeteria and an open-air viewing deck.

Lappeenranta
On the banks of Lake Saimaa – Finland’s largest lake – Lappeenranta has encountered dramatic swings of fortune. Once famous for its scarlet-clad garrison, the 17th-century ‘Cavalry City’ was a humming trade port at the edge of the Swedish empire. In 1743 it came under Russian control, where it remained for the next 68 years, becoming an exclusive spa town. Much of the town was destroyed during the Winter and Continuation Wars, but its massive fortress and spa endure.
- Standing guard above the harbour, the hulking hilltop fortification of [Linnoitus](http://www.lappeenranta.fi/) was begun by the Swedes and finished by the Russians in the late 18th century.
- Every summer, around 30 sand artists from Finland and abroad gather to build the [Hiekkalinna](http://hiekkalinna.lappeenranta.fi/), a giant themed ‘sandcastle’ made from some 3 million kg of sand. Previous themes have included dinosaurs, a Wild West scene incorporating a gigantic steam train, and 'outer space' featuring ET and Darth Vader. Kids' entertainment here includes small carousel-style rides

Nurmes
On the northern shores of Lake Pielinen, Nurmes is a great base for activities such as snowmobiling, ice-fishing, dog-sledding and cross-country skiing tours in winter, and wildlife-watching, canoeing, hiking and more come summer.

Savonlinna
The historic frontier settlement of Savonlinna is one of Finland's prettiest towns and most compelling tourist destinations. Scattered across a garland of small islands strung between Haukivesi and Pihlajavesi lakes, its major attraction is the visually dramatic [Olavinlinna Castle](http://www.kansallismuseo.fi/), constructed in the 15th century and now the spectacular venue of July’s world-famous Savonlinna Opera Festival. In summer, when the lakes shimmer in the sun and operatic arias waft through the forest-scented air, the place is quite magical. In winter it's blanketed in fairy-tale-like snow, and its friendly locals can be relied upon to offer visitors a warm welcome.

Kuhmo
Surrounded by wilderness, Kuhmo makes a natural base for hiking and wildlife-watching. Vast taiga forests run from here right across Siberia and harbour wolves, bears and lynx. Kuhmo is also the unofficial capital of Vienan Karjala, the Karelian heartland now in Russia, explored by artists in the movement that was crucial to the development of Finnish national identity. Most of their expeditions set off from Kuhmo, as did one of Elias Lönnrot’s, when he headed into ‘Songland’ to record the verses of bards that he later wove into the Kalevala epic. There’s a fine Kalevala resource centre in town.
Hiking is the big drawcard in Kuhmo – the eastern ‘branch line’ of the UKK route passes through here – but there are plenty of other ways to get active.

Kuusamo & Ruka
**Kuusamo** is a remote frontier town 217km northeast of Oulu and close to the Russian border, while **Ruka** is its buzzy ski resort 30km north. Both make great activity bases. In summer, there's great walking and birdwatching as well as good mountain-biking trails. In winter it's a centre for skiing, husky-sledding, snowmobiling and more. The Ruka [webpage](http://www.ruka.fi/), is a useful place to look for activity ideas.

Oulu
Oulu (Swedish: Uleåborg) is one of Finland’s most enjoyable cities to visit. In summer angled sunshine bathes the kauppatori (market square) in light and all seems well with the world. Locals, who appreciate daylight when they get it, crowd the terraces, and market stalls groan under the weight of Arctic berries. The city centre is spread across several islands, connected by pedestrian bridges and cycleways. Oulu is also a significant technology city; the university turns out top-notch IT graduates and the corporate parks on the city’s outskirts employ people from all over the globe.

Ruka

Inari
The tiny village of Inari (Sami: Anár) is Finland's most significant Sami centre and the ideal starting point to learn something of Sami culture. Home to the wonderful Siida museum and Sajos (cultural centre and seat of the Finnish Sami parliament), it also has a string of superb handicrafts shops. It’s a great base for forays into Lemmenjoki National Park and the Kevo Strict Nature Reserve.
The village sits on Lappland’s largest lake, Inarijärvi, a spectacular body of water with more than 3000 islands in its 1084-sq-km area.

Kemi
**Kemi** is an important deep-water harbour and heavy-industry town. It's home to two of Finland’s blockbuster winter attractions – a [snow castle](http://www.visitkemi.fi/) and an ice-breaker cruise – while summer diversions include a gem museum and a wide waterfront where you'll find a handful of kid-friendly activities at Santa's Seaside Office.

Kilpisjärvi
The remote village of Kilpisjärvi, the northernmost settlement in the ‘arm’ of Finland, sits on the doorstep of both Norway and Sweden. At 480m above sea level, this small border post, wedged between the lake of Kilpisjärvi and the magnificent surrounding fells, is also the highest village in Finland. The main reason to venture out here is for brilliant summer and ruska (autumn colour) trekking or spring cross-country skiing.
Kilpisjärvi consists of two small settlements 5km apart – the main (southern) centre has most services; the northern knot has the hiking centre and trailheads.

Lemmenjoki National Park
Lemmenjoki (Sami: Leammi) is Finland’s largest national park, covering a remote wilderness area between Inari and Norway. This is prime hiking territory, with desolate wilderness rivers, rough landscapes and the mystique of gold, as solitary prospectors slosh away with their pans in the middle of nowhere. Boat trips on the river allow more leisurely exploration of the park.
The launch pad is Njurgulahti, an Inari Sami community by the river; it’s often simply referred to as Lemmenjoki. It’s 11km down a turn-off signposted 34km southwest of Inari on the Kittilä road.
Most trails start from Njurgulahti, including a family-friendly 4.5km marked nature trail. Marked trekking routes are in the relatively small ‘basic area’ between the rivers Lemmenjoki and Vaskojoki; a 20km loop between Kultahamina and Ravadasjärvi huts takes you to some of the most interesting gold-panning areas. Another route heads over Látnjoaivi Fell to Vaskojoki hut and back, taking you into the ‘wilderness area’, which has fewer restrictions on where to camp but no trail markings.From Kultahamina, it’s a 21.5km walk back to Njurgulahti along the river, via Ravadas, 6.5km closer. You can get the boat one-way and walk the other.
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Levi
One of Finland's most popular ski resorts, Levi has a compact centre, top-shelf modern facilities and a large accommodation capacity. It hosts many high-profile winter events and is also a very popular destination for hiking during the ruska (autumn leaves) season. There’s enough going on here in summer that it’s not moribund, and great deals on smart modern apartments make it an excellent base for exploring western Lappland, particularly for families.
Levi is actually the name of the fell, while Sirkka is the village, but most people refer to the whole place as Levi. The ski season runs from around late October to early May, depending on conditions; in December overseas charter flights descend at nearby Kittilä, bringing families in search of reindeer and a white Christmas.
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Muonio
The last significant stop on Rd 21 before Kilpisjärvi and Norway, Muonio sits on the scenic Muonionjoki that forms the border between Finland and Sweden. It's a fine base for summer and winter activities, including low-key skiing at nearby Olos. Most of the town was razed during WWII, but the 1817 wooden church escaped that fate.

Pallas-Yllästunturi National Park
Covering 102,000 hectares, Finland’s third-largest national park forms a long, thin area running from Hetta in the north to the Ylläs ski area in the south.
There are 350km of hiking trails, 80km of mountain-bike trails and 500km of cross-country-skiing trails. The main attraction is the excellent 55km trekking route from the village of Hetta to Pallastunturi in the middle of the park, where there’s a hotel, the Pallastunturi Luontokeskus nature centre and transport connections. You can continue from here to Ylläs, although there are few facilities on that section. In winter Pallastunturi Fell is a small but popular place for both cross-country and downhill skiing.
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Rovaniemi
Situated right by the Arctic Circle, the ‘official’ terrestrial residence of Santa Claus is the capital of Finnish Lappland and a tourism boom town. Its wonderful Arktikum museum is the perfect introduction to these latitudes, and Rovaniemi is a fantastic base from which to organise activities.
Thoroughly destroyed by the retreating Wehrmacht in 1944, the town was rebuilt to a plan by Alvar Aalto, with the major streets in the shape of a reindeer’s head and antlers (the stadium near the bus station is the eye). Its utilitarian buildings are compensated for by its marvellous riverside location.

Saariselkä
The bustling, touristy village of Saariselkä (Sami: Suolocielgi), 250km north of the Arctic Circle, is more resort than community, as it's basically a collection of enormous hotels and holiday cottages, but it's a great spot to get active. It’s a major winter destination for Christmassy experiences, sled safaris and skiing, and in summer it serves as the main base for trekkers heading into the awesome Saariselkä Wilderness.

Sodankylä
Sodankylä is the main service centre for one of Europe’s least populated areas, with a density of just 0.75 people per square kilometre. It’s at the junction of Lappland's two main highways and makes a decent staging post between Rovaniemi and the north; even if you’re just passing through, stop to see the humble but exquisite wooden church Vanha Kirkko. A contrast is provided by the high-tech observatory Aurora House just outside town, an important collection point for data on the atmosphere and the aurora borealis.

Tornio
Situated on the impressive Tornionjoki, northern Europe's longest free-flowing river, Tornio is joined to its Swedish counterpart Haparanda by short bridges. After Russia claimed the Finnish trading centre in 1809, Haparanda was founded in 1821 across the river. Upon joining the EU, the twin towns reunited as a 'Eurocity'. Cross-border shopping has boomed here in recent years, with a vast Ikea on the Swedish side and new malls on the Finnish side. Finland is an hour ahead of Sweden (meaning double celebrations on New Year's Eve).