Guatemala City
Depending on who you talk to, Guatemala City (or Guate as it's known) is either big, dirty, dangerous and utterly forgettable or big, dirty, dangerous and fascinating. Either way, there's no doubt there's an energy here unlike anywhere else in Guatemala. It's a place where dilapidated buses belch fumes next to BMWs and Hummers, and where skyscrapers drop shadows on shantytowns.
Guate is busy reinventing itself as a people-friendly city. Downtown Zona 1, for years a no-go zone of abandoned buildings and crime hot spots, is leading the way with the pedestrianized 6a Calle attracting bars, cafes and restaurants.
Many travellers skip the city altogether, preferring to make Antigua their base. Still, you may want, or need, to get acquainted with the capital, because this is the hub of the country, home to the best museums and galleries, transportation hubs and other traveller services.
The major sights are in Zona 1 (the historic center) and Zonas 10 and 13, where the museums are grouped. If you're in town on a Sunday, consider taking the TransMetro's SubiBaja hop-on, hop-off self-guided tour – it's an excellent way to see many of the city's sights without worrying about public transportation or taxis.
maphub-meta:{"marker-color": "#e32c31"}

Antigua
A place of rare beauty, major historical significance and vibrant culture, Antigua remains Guatemala's must-visit destination. A former capital, the city boasts an impressive catalogue of colonial relics in a magnificent setting. Streetscapes of pastel facades unfold beneath three volcanoes. Many old ecclesiastical and civic structures are beautifully renovated, while others retain tumbledown charm, with fragments strewn about park-like grounds. Despite becoming a global hot spot Antigua remains a vibrant Guatemalan town, its churches, plazas and markets throbbing with activity. Outside the city, indigenous communities, coffee plantations and volcanoes offer ample opportunities for exploration.
Once glorious in their gilded baroque finery, Antigua's churches and monasteries have suffered indignities from both nature and humankind. Rebuilding after earthquakes gave the churches thicker walls, lower towers and belfries, and unembellished interiors. Furthermore, moving the capital to Guatemala City deprived Antigua of the population needed to maintain the churches in their traditional richness, though they remain impressive.
maphub-meta:{"marker-color": "#e32c31"}

Salamá
A wonderful introduction to Baja Verapaz' not-too-hot, not-too-cold climate, the area around Salamá hosts a wealth of attractions, both postcolonial and indigenous.
The town itself is known for its ornate church (complete with grisly depiction of Jesus), bustling Sunday market and the photogenic ex-sugar-mill-turned-museum and impressive stone aqueduct in the neighbouring town of San Jerónimo.
Salamá also marks the starting point for a back-roads route to Guatemala City, passing Rabinal, whose annual fiesta of San Pedro (January 19–25) is a beguiling mix of pre-Colombian and Catholic traditions, and Cubulco where the palo volador (flying pole) tradition is still observed. There are basic, adequate pensiones (family-run guesthouses) in both Rabinal and Cubulco.
maphub-meta:{"marker-color": "#e32c31"}

Biotopo del Quetzal
You need a fair bit of luck to see a quetzal (Guatemala's national bird), as they're rare and shy, though you have the best chance of seeing them from March to June. Even so, it's well worth stopping to explore and enjoy this lush high-altitude cloud-forest ecosystem that is the quetzal's natural habitat – and you may happen to see one. Early morning or early evening are the best times to watch out for them – they're actually more prevalent around the grounds of the nearby hotels.
wo excellent, well-maintained nature trails wind through the reserve: the 1800m Sendero los Helechos (Fern Trail) and the 3600m Sendero los Musgos (Moss Trail). As you wander through the dense growth, treading on the rich, spongy humus and leaf-mold, you'll see many varieties of epiphytes (air plants), which thrive in the reserve's humid atmosphere. Deep in the forest is Xiu Gua Li Che (Grandfather Tree), some 450 years old, which germinated around the time the Spanish fought the Rabinal in these mountains.
maphub-meta:{"marker-color": "#3cc954"}

Cobán
Not so much an attraction in itself, but an excellent jumping-off point for the natural wonders of Alta Verapaz, Cobán is a prosperous city with an upbeat air. Return visitors will marvel at how much (and how tastefully) the town has developed since their last visit.
Orchid lovers and even the orchid-curious should not miss the wonderfully informative guided tour of the orchid sanctuary of Orquigonia just off the highway to Cobán. The 1½- to two-hour tour takes you through the history of orchid collecting, starting with the Maya, as you wend your way along a path in the forest.

Lanquín
One of the best excursions to make from Cobán is to the pretty village of Lanquín, 61km to the east. People come for two reasons: to explore the wonderful Grutas de Lanquín cave system just out of town, and as a jumping-off point for visiting the natural rock pools at Semuc Champey.

Semuc Champey
Eleven kilometres south of Lanquín, along a rough, bumpy, slow road, is Semuc Champey, famed for its great 300m-long natural limestone bridge, on top of which is a stepped series of pools with cool, flowing river water good for swimming. The water is from the Río Cahabón, and much more of it passes underground, beneath the bridge. Though this bit of paradise is difficult to reach, the beauty of its setting and the perfection of the pools, ranging from turquoise to emerald-green, make it worth it. Many people consider this the most beautiful spot in all Guatemala.
If you're visiting on a tour, some guides will take you down a rope ladder from the lowest pool to the river, which gushes out from the rocks below. Plenty of people do this and love it, though it is a bit risky.
maphub-meta:{"marker-color": "#3cc954"}

Fray Bartolomé de las Casas
his town, often referred to simply as Fray, is a way station on the back route between the Cobán/Lanquín area and Poptún on the Río Dulce–Flores highway (Hwy 13). This route is dotted with traditional Maya villages where only the patriarchs speak Spanish, and then only a little. This is a great opportunity for getting off the 'gringo trail' and into the heart of Guatemala.
Fray is substantial considering it's in the middle of nowhere, but don't let its size fool you. This is a place where the weekly soccer game is the biggest deal in town, chickens languish in the streets and siesta is taken seriously.
Accommodation as well as eating options are very limited here.

Lake Atitlán
Fishermen in rustic crafts ply the lake's aquamarine surface, while indigenous women in multi-coloured outfits do their washing by the banks where trees burst into bloom. Fertile hills dot the landscape, and over everything loom the volcanoes, permeating the entire area with a mysterious beauty. It never looks the same twice. No wonder many outsiders have fallen in love with the place and made their homes here.
The main lakeside town is Panajachel, or 'Gringotenango' as it is sometimes unkindly called, and most people initially head here to launch their Atitlán explorations. Santiago Atitlán, along the lake's southern spur, has the strongest indigenous identity of any of the major lake towns. Up the western shore, the town of San Pedro La Laguna has a reputation as a countercultural party center. On the north side, San Marcos La Laguna is a haven for new-agers, while Santa Cruz La Laguna and Jaibalito, nearer to Panajachel, are among the lake's most idyllic, picturesque locales.

Panajachel
The busiest and most built-up lakeside settlement, Panajachel ('Pana' to pretty much the entire country) has developed haphazardly and, some say, in a less-than-beautiful way. Strolling the main street, Calle Santander, crammed with travel agencies, handicraft hawkers and rowdy bars, dodging tuk-tuks all the way, you may be forgiven for supposing this paradise lost.
A hike down to the lakeshore, though, will give you a better idea why Pana attracts so many visitors. Aside from the astounding volcano panorama, the town's excellent transportation connections, copious accommodations, varied restaurants and thumping nightlife make it a favourite destination for weekending Guatemalans.
Several different cultures mingle on Panajachel's dusty streets. Ladinos (people of mixed indigenous and European heritage) and gringos control the tourist industry. The Kaqchiquel and Tz'utujil Maya from surrounding villages come to sell their handicrafts to tourists. Tour groups arrive by bus for a few hours or overnight. This mix makes Pana a curiously cosmopolitan crossroads in an otherwise remote, rural vicinity. All of this makes for a convenient transition into the Atitlán universe – but to truly experience the beauty of the lake, most travellers venture onward soon after arrival.

Santiago Atitlán
Across the lake from Panajachel, on an inlet between the volcanoes of Tolimán and San Pedro, lies Santiago Atitlán, the largest of the lake communities, with a strong indigenous identity. Many atitecos (as its people are known) proudly adhere to a traditional Tz'utujil Maya lifestyle. Women wear purple-striped skirts and huipiles embroidered with coloured birds and flowers, while older men still wear lavender or maroon striped embroidered pants. The town's cofradías (religious brotherhoods) maintain the syncretic traditions and rituals of Maya Catholicism. There's a large art and crafts scene here, too. Boat-building is a local industry, and rows of rough-hewn cayucos (dugout canoes) are lined up along the shore. The best days to visit are Friday and Sunday, the main market days, but any day will do.

San Pedro La Laguna
Spreading onto a peninsula at the base of the volcano of the same name, San Pedro remains among the most visited of the lakeside villages – due as much to its reasonably priced accommodations and global social scene as its spectacular setting. Travelers tend to dig in here for a spell, in pursuit of (in no particular order) drinking, fire-twirling, African drumming, Spanish classes, painting classes, volcano hiking, hot-tub soaking and hammock swinging.
While this scene unfolds at the lakefront, up the hill San Pedro follows more traditional rhythms. Clad in indigenous outfits, the predominantly indigenous pedranos (as the locals are called) congregate around the market zone. You'll see coffee being picked on the volcano's slopes and spread out to dry on wide platforms at the beginning of the dry season.

San Marcos La Laguna
Without doubt the prettiest of the lakeside villages, San Marcos La Laguna lives a double life. The mostly Maya community occupies the higher ground, while expats and visitors cover a flat jungly patch toward the shoreline with paths snaking through banana, coffee and avocado trees. The two converge under the spreading matapalo (strangler fig) tree of the delightful central plaza.
San Marcos has become a magnet for global seekers, who believe the place has a spiritual energy that's conducive to learning and practicing meditation, holistic therapies, massage, reiki and other spiritually oriented activities. Whatever you're into, it's a great spot to kick back and distance the everyday world for a spell. Lago de Atitlán is beautiful and clean here, and you can swim off the rocks. Boats put in at a central dock below Posada Schumann. The path leading from there to the village centre, and a parallel one about 100m west, are the main axes for most visitors.

Cerro Tzankujil
This nature reserve is on a sacred hill west of San Marcos village. Well-maintained pebbly trails lead to swimming areas with shelters by the bank and a diving platform. The water is crystal clear here. A branch off the main trail ascends to a Maya altar on the summit, while a lower spur reaches a volcano lookout.
maphub-meta:{"marker-color": "#3cc954"}

Santa Cruz La Laguna
With the typically dual nature of the Atitlán villages, Santa Cruz comprises both a waterfront resort – home of the lake's scuba-diving outfit – and an indigenous Kaqchiquel village, about 600m uphill from the dock. The cobblestoned road up is a route villagers customarily take lugging sacks of avocados or firewood. The inaccessibility of the spot – it can only be reached by boat or on foot – may impede its development but also enhances its rugged beauty.

Chichicastenango
Surrounded by valleys with mountains serrating the horizons, Chichicastenango can seem isolated in time and space from the rest of Guatemala. When its narrow cobbled streets and red-tiled roofs are enveloped in mist, it's downright magical. The crowds of crafts vendors and tour groups who flock in for the huge Thursday and Sunday markets lend it a much worldlier, more commercial atmosphere, but Chichi retains its mystery. Masheños (citizens of Chichicastenango) are famous for their adherence to pre-Christian beliefs and ceremonies, and the town's various cofradías (religious brotherhoods) hold processions in observance of their saints around the church of Santo Tomás.
Take a close look at the mural running alongside the wall of the town hall on the east side of the plaza. It's dedicated to the victims of the civil war and tells the story using symbology from the Popol Vuh.

Santa Cruz del Quiché, Guatemala
Without Chichicastenango's big market and attendant tourism, Santa Cruz – or just El Quiché – presents a less self-conscious slice of regional life and is refreshingly free of competition for tourist lucre. Just 19km north of Chichi, it's the capital of Quiché department, drawing a diverse populace on business and administrative affairs. The main market days are Thursday and Sunday, boosting the bustle considerably. Travelers who come here usually do so to visit K'um'arkaj, the ruins of the old K'iche' Maya capital, or to change buses en route further north.
Most points of interest are within a few short blocks of the tripartite plaza, usually a hive of activity. The top square is flanked on its east side by Gobernación (the departmental government palace), the middle one by the cathedral and municipalidad (town hall), and the bottom one by the big domed events hall, in front of which stands a statue of K'iche' warrior Tecún Umán in a fierce posture, though these days sadly engulfed by the stalls of the informal economy. The main market occupies a series of buildings east of the plaza.
The most exciting time to be here is during the Fiestas Elenas (mid-August), a week of festivities and a proud display of indigenous traditions. It all leads up to the convite feminino, when El Quiché's women don masks and dance up a storm to marimba accompaniment.

Triángulo Ixil (Ixil Triangle)
Hidden in a remote fold of the Cuchumatanes mountains north of Sacapulas is the Triángulo Ixil (Ixil Triangle), a 2300-sq-km zone comprising the towns of Santa María Nebaj, San Juan Cotzal and San Gaspar Chajul, as well as dozens of outlying villages and hamlets. The local Ixil Maya people, though they suffered perhaps more than anybody in Guatemala's civil war, cling proudly to their traditions and speak the Ixil language. Nebaj women are celebrated for their beautiful purple, green and yellow pom-pommed hair braids, scarlet cortes (wraparound skirts), and their huipiles (long, sleeveless tunics) and rebozos (shawls), featuring bird and animal motifs.
Living in this beautiful mountain vastness has long been both a blessing and a curse. According to estimates by church groups and human-rights organizations, some 25,000 Ixil inhabitants (of a population of 85,000) were either killed or displaced by the army between 1978 and 1983 as part of the campaign to expunge guerrilla activity.

Quetzaltenango
Quetzaltenango may well be the perfect Guatemalan town – not too big, not too small, enough foreigners to support a good range of hotels and restaurants, but not so many that it loses its national flavour. The Guatemalan 'layering' effect is at work in the city center – once the Spanish moved out, the Germans moved in and their architecture gives the zone a sombre, even Gothic, feel. Xela functions as a base for a range of spectacular hikes through the surrounding countryside – the ascent to the summit of Volcán Tajumulco (Central America's highest point) and the three-day trek to Lago de Atitlán, to name a few.
There are many exciting walks and climbs to be done from Xela. Volcán Tajumulco (4220m), 50km northwest, is the highest point in Central America, and it's a challenging trek of one long day from the city or two days with a night camping on the mountain. This includes about five hours' walking up from the starting point, Tuhichan (2½ hours by bus from Xela).
With early starts, Volcán Santa María (3772m), towering to the south of the city, and the highly active Santiaguito (2488m), on Santa María's southwest flank, can both be done in long mornings from Xela, though the tough, slippery trail is recommended only for seasoned hikers. You start walking at the village of Llanos del Pinal, 5km south of Xela (Q5 by bus), from where it's four to five hours up to the summit of Santa María. Getting too close to Santiaguito is dangerous, so people usually just look at it from a point about 1½ hours' walk from Llanos del Pinal.

Uspantán
Most travellers who pass through Uspantán are on their way to Cobán. Though the sky-high journey through the Cuchumatanes is reason enough to travel there, Uspantán, a benevolent town halfway between Huehuetenango and Cobán along the 7W road, offers a few attractions of its own.
To get the big picture, hike up to Cerro Xoqoneb’, a Maya ceremonial center 1.5km east of town.

Huehuetenango
Often used as a stop-off on the journey to or from Mexico, or as a staging area for forays deeper into the Cuchumatanes mountain range, Huehuetenango offers few charms of its own, though some may appreciate its welcoming if scruffy character. Fortunately, 'Huehue' (way-way) packs in plenty of eating and sleeping options along with some striking mountain scenery.

Todos Santos Cuchumatan
Todos Santos Cuchumatán is renowned for its wildly colourful horse races, the highlight of El Día de Todos los Santosa, a no-holds-barred annual celebration held on November 1. It's the culmination of a week of festivities and an all-night spree of male dancing to marimbas and aguardiente (sugar cane liquor) drinking on the eve of the races – which rather than a competitive event is a chance for todosanteros to ride up and down as fast as they can while getting progressively drunker the whole day long (with a break for lunch). The authentically indigenous event attracts throngs of inhabitants from surrounding communities who gather on a grassy hillside alongside the sand track or upon the rooftops opposite to observe the riders decked out in their finest traditional garb.
Todos Santos, incidentally, is the only place in Guatemala where Day of the Dead is not observed on Nov 1, since that day is reserved for a celebration of autonomy within Huehuetenango province. Instead, the traditional visit to the cemetery is postponed to the following day, when graves are decorated and marimbas serenade groups of mourners as they arrive to pay their respects.

La Democracia
La Democracia, a nondescript Pacific Slope town 10km south of Siquinalá, is hot day and night, rainy season and dry season. During the late Preclassic period (300 BC to AD 250), this area, like Takalik Abaj to the northwest, was home to a culture showing influence from southern Mexico. As you come into town from the highway, follow signs to the regional museo, which is on the plaza.

Parque Arqueológico Takalik Abaj
About 25km northwest of Retalhuleu, the Parque Arqueológico Takalik Abaj is a fascinating archaeological site set on land now occupied by coffee, rubber and sugarcane plantations. Takalik Abaj was an important trading center in the late Preclassic era, before AD 250, and forms a historical link between Mesoamerica's first civilization, the Olmecs, and the Maya. The Olmecs flourished from about 1200 to 600 BC on Mexico's southern Gulf coast, but their influence extended far and wide, and numerous Olmec-style sculptures have been found at Takalik Abaj.
The city, which had strong connections with the town of Kaminaljuyú (in present-day Guatemala City), was sacked in about AD 300 and its great monuments, especially those in Maya style, were decapitated. Some monuments were rebuilt after AD 600 and the site retained a ceremonial and religious importance for the Maya, which it maintains to this day. Maya from the Guatemalan highlands regularly come here to perform ceremonies.

Retalhuleu
Arriving at the bus station in Retalhuleu, or Reu (ray-oo) as it's known to most Guatemalans, you're pretty much guaranteed to be underwhelmed. The neighbourhood is a tawdry affair, packed out with dilapidated wooden cantinas (canteens) and street vendors. The town centre, just five blocks away, is like another world – a majestic, palm-filled plaza, surrounded by some fine old buildings. Even the city police get in on the act, hanging plants outside their headquarters.
The real reason most people visit is for access to Takalik Abaj, but if you're up for some serious downtime, a couple of world-class fun parks are just down the road.

Champerico
Built as a shipping point for coffee during the boom of the late 19th century, Champerico, 38km southwest of Retalhuleu, is a tawdry, sweltering, dilapidated place that sees few tourists. Nevertheless, it's one of the easiest ocean beaches to reach on a day trip from Quetzaltenango, and heat-starved students still try their luck here. Beware of strong waves and an undertow if you go in the ocean, and stay in the main, central part of the beach: if you stray too far in either direction you put yourself at risk from impoverished, potentially desperate shack dwellers who live towards the ends of the beach. Tourists have been victims of violent armed robberies here.

Monterrico
The coastal area around Monterrico is a totally different Guatemala. Life here is steeped with a sultry, tropical flavour, with rustic wooden-slat and thatched-roofed architecture and awesome volcanoes that shimmer in the hinterland. It's fast becoming popular with foreigners as a beach break from Antigua or Guatemala City. On weekdays it's relatively quiet, but on weekends and holidays it teems with Guatemalan families.
Monterrico itself is a coastal village with a few small, inexpensive hotels right on the beach, a large wildlife reserve and two centers for the hatching and release of sea turtles and caimans. The beach here is dramatic, with powerful surf crashing onto black volcanic sand at odd angles. This wave-print signals that there are rip tides; deaths have occurred at this beach, so swim with care. Behind the town is a large network of mangrove swamps and canals, part of the 190km Canal de Chiquimulilla.

Sipacate
An hour and a half down the road from Santa Lucía Cotzumalguapa is Guatemala's surf capital. Waves here average 6ft, with the best breaks between December and April. The town is separated from the beach by the Canal de Chiquimulilla.

Santa Lucía Cotzumalguapa
Santa Lucía Cotzumalguapa, though benign enough, is unexciting. The region, though, is an important stop for anyone interested in archaeology. In the fields and fincas (plantations or farms) near the town stand great stone heads carved with grotesque faces and fine relief scenes, the product of the enigmatic Pipil culture that flourished here from about AD 500 to 700.
In your explorations of the area, you may also get to see a Guatemalan sugarcane finca in full operation.

Escuintla
Surrounded by rich green foliage, Escuintla should be a tropical idyll where people swing languidly in hammocks and concoct pungent meals of readily available exotic fruits and vegetables. In fact, it's a hot, shabby commercial and industrial city that's integral to the Pacific Slope's economy, but not at all important to travellers, except for making bus connections.

Chiquimula
Chiquimula is a major market town for all of eastern Guatemala. For travellers it's not a destination but a transit point. Your goal is probably the fabulous Maya ruins at Copán in Honduras, just across the border from El Florido. There are also some interesting journeys between Chiquimula and Jalapa, 78km to the west. Among other things, Chiquimula is famous for its sweltering climate and its decent budget hotels

Esquipulas
From Chiquimula, Hwy 10 goes south into the mountains, where it's a bit cooler. After an hour's ride through pretty country, the highway descends into a valley ringed by mountains, where Esquipulas stands. Halfway down the slope, about 1km from the center of town, there is a mirador (lookout) from which to get a good view. The reason for a trip to Esquipulas is evident as soon as you catch sight of the place, dominated by the great Basílica de Esquipulas towering above the town, its whiteness shimmering in the sun

Quiriguá
Quiriguá archaeological site is only 50km from Copán as the crow flies, but the lay of the land, the international border and the condition of the roads make it a journey of 175km. Quiriguá is famed for its intricately carved stelae – the gigantic brown sandstone monoliths that rise as high as 10.5m, like ancient sentinels, in a quiet well-kept tropical park.
From Río Hondo junction it's 67km along Hwy 9 to the village of Los Amates, where there are a couple of hotels, a restaurant, food stalls, a bank and a small bus station. Quiriguá village is 1.5km east of Los Amates, and the turnoff to the ruins is another 1.5km to the east. The 3.4km access road leads south through banana groves.
Quiriguá Archaeological Site
Despite the sticky heat and (sometimes) bothersome mosquitoes, Quiriguá is a wonderful place. The giant stelae on the Gran Plaza (Great Plaza) are all much more worn than those at Copán. To impede further deterioration, each has been covered by a thatched roof. The roofs cast shadows that make it difficult to examine the carving closely and almost impossible to get a good photograph, but somehow this does little to inhibit one's sense of awe. Seven of the stelae, designated A, C, D, E, F, H and J, were built during the reign of Cauac Sky and carved with his image. Stela E is the largest Maya stela known, standing some 8m above ground, with another 3m or so buried in the earth. It weighs almost 60,000kg. Note the exuberant, elaborate headdresses; the beards on some of the figures (an oddity in Maya art and life); the staffs of office held in the kings' hands; and the glyphs on the sides of the stela. At the far end of the plaza is the Acrópolis, far less impressive than the one at Copán. At its base are several zoomorphs, blocks of stone carved to resemble real and mythic creatures. Frogs, tortoises, jaguars and serpents were favourite subjects. The low zoomorphs can't compete with the towering stelae in impressiveness, but as works of art, imagination and mythic significance, the zoomorphs are superb.

Lake Izabal
Guatemala's largest lake, to the north of Hwy 9, is starting to earn its place on the travellers map. Most visitors checking out the lake stay at Río Dulce town, by the long, tall bridge where Hwy 13, heading north to Flores and Tikal, crosses the Río Dulce emptying out of the east end of the lake. Downstream, the beautiful river broadens into a lake called El Golfete before meeting the Caribbean at Lívingston. River trips are a highlight of a visit to eastern Guatemala.
If you're looking for lakeside ambience minus the Río Dulce congestion and pace, head to Chapin Abajo, north of Mariscos or El Estor near the west end of the lake, both of which give access to the rich wildlife of the Bocas del Polochic river delta. There are many undiscovered spots in this area waiting to be explored, so don't limit yourself.

Puerto Barrios
Port towns have always had a reputation for being slightly dodgy, and those acting as international borders doubly so. Puerto Barrios has an edgy, somewhat sleazy feel; for foreign visitors, it’s mainly a jumping-off point for boats to Punta Gorda (Belize) or Lívingston, and you probably won’t be hanging around.

Punta Manabique
The Punta de Manabique promontory, which separates the Bahía de Manabique from the open sea, along with the coast and hinterland all the way southeast to the Honduran frontier, comprises a large, ecologically fascinating, sparsely populated wetland area. Access to the area, which is under environmental protection as the Área de Protección Especial Punta de Manabique, is not cheap, but the attractions for those who make it there include pristine Caribbean beaches, boat trips through the mangrove forests, lagoons and waterways, bird-watching, fishing with locals, and crocodile and possible manatee sightings.

Livingston
Quite unlike anywhere else in Guatemala, this largely Garifuna town is fascinating in itself, but also has the attraction of a couple of good beaches and its location at the end of the river journey from Río Dulce.
Unconnected (for the moment) by road from the rest of the country (the town is called 'Buga' – mouth – in Garifuna, for its position at the river mouth), boat transportation is logically quite good here, and you can get to Belize, the Cayes and Puerto Barrios with a minimum of fuss.
Beaches in Lívingston itself are disappointing, as buildings or vegetation come right down to the water's edge in most places. Those beaches that do exist are often contaminated; however, there are better beaches within a few kilometres to the northwest. You can reach Playa Quehueche near the mouth of the Río Quehueche by taxi (Q30) in about 10 minutes.

Río Dulce
At the east end of Lago de Izabal, this town still gets referred to as Fronteras – a hangover from the days when the only way across the river was by ferry, and this was the last piece of civilization before embarking on the long, difficult journey into El Petén.
Times have changed. A huge bridge now spans the water and El Petén roads are some of the best in the country. The town sees most tourist traffic from yachties – the US coast guard says this is the safest place on the western Caribbean for boats during hurricane season. The rest of the foreigners here are either coming or going on the spectacular river trip between here and Lívingston.

El Estor
The major settlement on the northern shore of Lago de Izabal is El Estor, a friendly, somnolent little town with a lovely setting which provides an easy jumping-off point for Bocas del Polochic, a highly biodiverse wildlife reserve at the west end of the lake. The town is also a staging post on a possible route between Río Dulce and Lanquín.
There are no upscale hotels here, but there's a good enough range for the short time you're likely to be here.

Los Siete Altares
bout 5km (1½-hour walk) northwest of Lívingston along the shore of Bahía de Amatique, Los Siete Altares is a series of freshwater falls and pools. It's a pleasant goal for a beach walk and is a good place for a picnic and swim.
Follow the shore northward to the river mouth and walk along the beach until it meets the path into the woods (about 30 minutes). Follow this path all the way to the falls. Boat trips go to Los Siete Altares, but if you're a walker it's better to go by foot to experience the natural beauty and the Garifuna people along the way.

Sayaxché
Sayaxché, on the south bank of the Río de la Pasión, 61km southwest of Flores, is the closest town to around 10 scattered Maya archaeological sites, including Ceibal, Aguateca, Dos Pilas, Tamarindito and Altar de Sacrificios. Besides its strategic position between Flores and the Cobán area, it has a riverside appeal all its own, with rickety motorboats and funky barges floating trucks across the broad waterway, the former till sundown, the latter round the clock.

Ceibal
Unimportant during most of the Classic period, Ceibal (sometimes spelled Seibal) grew rapidly in the 9th century AD. It attained a population of around 10,000 by AD 900, then was abandoned shortly afterwards. Its low, ruined temples were quickly covered by a thick carpet of jungle. Excavation of the site is ongoing under the supervision of University of Arizona archaeologist Takeshi Inomata.
On the north side of the river in Sayaxché, lanchas (small motorboats) runs here (Q600 for up to five passengers). The fee should include a guide, who may actually be the boatman. In high season, ask the lancheros about joining a tour group. The one-hour boat ride up the Río de la Pasión brings you to a primitive dock. After landing, you clamber up a narrow, rocky path beneath gigantic ceiba trees and jumbles of jungle vines to reach the archaeological zone, perched about 100m above the river.
Alternatively, Ceibal can be reached over land: get any bus, minibus or pickup heading south from Sayaxché on Hwy 5 (toward Raxrujá and Chisec) and get off after 9km at Paraíso, from where it's an 8km walk east down a dirt track to Ceibal. About 2km in, where the road bends left by a small farmhouse, continue straight uphill to enter the park – there's no sign. In the rainy season check first that this stretch is passable.

Flores, Petén, Guatemala
With its cubist houses cascading down from a central plaza to the emerald waters of Lago de Petén Itzá, the island town of Flores evokes a Mediterranean ambience. A 500m causeway connects Flores to its humbler sister town of Santa Elena on the lake shore, which then merges into the even homelier community of San Benito to the west. The three towns actually form one large settlement, often referred to simply as Flores.
Flores proper is by far the more attractive base. Small hotels and restaurants line the streets, many featuring rooftop terraces with lake views. Residents take great pride in their island-town's gorgeousness, and a promenade runs around its perimeter. Flores does have a twee, built-up edge to it, though, and some Tikal-bound budget travellers opt for the tranquillity of El Remate, just down the road. Santa Elena is where you'll find banks, buses and a major shopping mall.
Flores is great for strolling, especially now that the lakefront promenade that rings the islet is complete – though rising lake levels have submerged much of the northern section. In the center, atop a rise, is the Parque Central, with its double-domed cathedral, Nuestra Señora de los Remedios.

Tikal
The most striking feature of Tika is its towering, steep-sided temples, rising to heights of more than 44m, but what distinguishes it is its jungle setting. Its many plazas have been cleared of trees and vines, its temples uncovered and partially restored, but as you walk from one building to another you pass beneath the dense canopy of rainforest amid the rich, loamy aromas of earth and vegetation. Tikal is set on a low hill, which becomes evident as you ascend to the Gran Plaza from the entry road. Affording relief from the surrounding swampy ground, this high terrain may explain why the Maya settled here around 700 BC. Constructed in successive waves over a period of at least 800 years, Tikal is a vast, complicated site with hundreds of temples, pyramids and stelae. There's no way you'll get to it all in a day sowe suggest: (1) Museo Sylvanus G Morley, (2) Temple VI, Gran Plaza, North Acrop, (3) Gran Plaza, (4) North Acropolis, (5) Templo V, (6) Plaza de los Siete Templos, (7) Mundo Perdido, (8) Temple IV.
Much of the delight of touring the site comes from strolling the broad causeways, originally built of packed limestone to accommodate traffic between temple complexes. By stepping softly you’re more likely to spot monkeys, agoutis, foxes and ocellated turkeys.
Tikal is a popular day trip from Flores or El Remate, so is much quieter in the late afternoon and early morning, which makes an overnight stay an attractive option.

Yaxhá
The Classic Maya sites of Yaxhá, Nakum and El Naranjo form a triangle that is the basis for a national park covering more than 370 sq km and bordering the Parque Nacional Tikal to the west. Yaxhá, the most visited of the trio, stands on a hill between two sizable lakes, Lago Yaxhá and Lago Sacnab. The setting, the sheer size of the site, the number of excellently restored buildings and the abundant jungle flora and fauna all make it particularly worth visiting. The site is 11km north of the Puente Ixlú–Melchor de Mencos road, accessed via unpaved road from a turnoff 32km from Puente Ixlú and 33km from Melchor de Mencos.

El Remate
This idyllic spot at the eastern end of Lago de Petén Itzá makes a good alternative base for Tikal-bound travelers – it's more relaxed than Flores, and closer to the site. Just two roads, really, El Remate has a ramshackle vibe all of its own. El Remate begins 1km north of Puente Ixlú, where the road to the Belize border diverges from the Tikal road. The village strings along the Tikal road for 1km to another junction, where a branch heads west along the north shore of the lake.
El Remate is known for its wood carving. Some fine examples of the craft are sold from stalls along the main road.

Uaxactún
Uaxactún (wah-shahk-toon), 23km north of Tikal along an unpaved road through the jungle, was Tikal's political and military rival in late Preclassic times. It was conquered by Tikal's Chak Tok Ich'aak I (King Great Jaguar Paw) in the 4th century, and was subservient to its great sister to the south for centuries thereafter, though it experienced an apparent resurgence during the Terminal Classic, after Tikal went into decline.
Villagers make an income from collecting chicle (a natural gum), pimienta (allspice) and xate (low-growing palm, exported to Holland for floral arrangements) in the surrounding forest. In the xate warehouse on the west end of town, women put together bunches of the plants for export. Much of the attraction here is the absolute stillness and isolation. Few visitors make it up this way.

El Mirador
Buried within the furthest reaches of the Petén jungle, just 7km south of the Mexican border, the late-Preclassic metropolis at El Mirador contains the largest cluster of buildings of any single Maya site, among them the biggest pyramid ever built in the Maya world. Ongoing excavations have only scratched the surface, so many are still hidden beneath the jungle.
El Mirador was so-named by local chicleros (chicle harvesters) for the excellent views provided by some of the pyramids. La Danta (the Tapir) looms 70m above the forest floor. El Tigre is 55m high with a base covering 18,000 sq meters. At its height, the city spread over 16 sq km and supported tens of thousands of citizens. It was certainly the greatest Maya city of the Preclassic era, far exceeding in size anything built subsequently in the Maya world.
A visit to El Mirador involves an arduous jungle trek of at least five days and four nights (it's about 60km each way), with no facilities or amenities aside from what you carry in and what can be rustled from the forest. During the rainy season, especially September to December, the mud can make it extremely difficult; February to June is the best period to attempt a trek. The trip usually departs from a cluster of houses called Carmelita, 82km up the road from Flores.