Managua
Managua itself, is in shambles. It is chaotic and broken, poetic and mesmerizing, all at the same time.
Travellers are mostly skip the city altogether – instead arranging for a quick airport transfers from nearby Granada. If you do stay a day or two, you will see that big, bad Managua probably isn't that bad!
Aside from diving into the whir of a magnificent beehive of honking horns, sprawling markets, garbage and rancor, this low-rise city with improbable trees, remarkable street art and spirited monuments also gives you easy access to nearby lagoons, the nature reserve of Chocoyero-El Brujo, a smattering of fun beaches like Pochomil, and the hot springs at El Trapiche.
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Plaza de la Revolución
This quiet collection of pre-earthquake and post-revolutionary monuments, parks, museums and government offices was once the pulsing heart of Managua. Then came the 1972 earthquake, and two decades of war and privation, and the center was all but abandoned. Slowly, it is being resuscitated.
The Malecón (pier) is re-emerging as a family-friendly destination, complete with new restaurants and activities for kids.

Malecón
The Malecón (pier) is re-emerging as a family-friendly destination, complete with new restaurants and activities for kids.
The area has been perked up by the newly renovated Puerto Salvador Allende tourist complex at its base. Still, it can be a bit depressing on off days, especially if you’re pondering how we could let Lago de Managua become one of the most polluted bodies of water in Central America.
The area has always drawn local families on weekends.

Puerto Salvador Allende
Thanks to a recent (and much-needed) overhaul to Managua's previously barren port area, this breezy lakefront complex is now a destination for tourists and locals alike. With around 20 dining venues – ranging from casual food stands to more elegant restaurants – plus playgrounds for children and pathways for strolling, it's a good bet in the afternoon or evening, especially around sunset when the views over the lake are particularly lovely.

Catedral de Managua
The hollow shell of Managua’s Old Cathedral remains Managua’s most poignant metaphor, shattered by the 1972 earthquake – and, despite promises, never restored. Though still beautiful and serene, attended by stone angels and dappled in golden light, it is empty and off-limits.

Parque Histórico Nacional Loma de Tiscapa
Home to what’s easily Managua’s most recognizable landmark, Sandino’s somber silhouette, this national historic park was once the site of the Casa Presidencial, where Sandino and his men were executed in 1934; what looks like a dilapidated parking structure was for decades one of Nicaragua’s most notorious prisons.
You can see Sandino, hastily erected by the departing Frente Sandinista de Liberación Nacional (FSLN; Sandinista National Liberation Front) government after its electoral loss in 1990, from almost anywhere in town; begin your ascent at the Crowne Plaza. You’ll pass Monumento Roosevelt, constructed in 1939, with lovely lake views (today it's a memorial to those killed in the revolution).
The top of Loma de Tiscapa is actually the lip of Volcán Tiscapa’s beautiful little crater lake, with incredible views of the city, both cathedrals and Volcán Momotombo.
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Catedral Metropolitana
An architectural marvel that leaves most visitors, well, scratching their heads. It’s not a mosque, really: the 63 cupolas (or breasts, or eggs; speculation continues) symbolize Nicaragua’s 63 Catholic churches, and also provide structural support during earthquakes – a good thing, since it sits astride a fault line.
The interior is cool, heartfelt and unspectacular, although the shrine on the northwest side is nice.

Masachapa & Pochomil
The twin towns of Masachapa and Pochomil are so close together that they might as well be one. You arrive in Masachapa, a small fishing village with a handful of bars, hotels and restaurants on the beach. Some will rent surfboards and arrange boating excursions.
There’s great surfing – a left-point break just north of Montelimar, and a hollow right reef break to the south; beach-break Quizala is closer to Masachapa. South of Pochomil there are scores of smallish, predictable peaks, perfect to learn on. There's a surprisingly clean river between Masachapa and Pochomil that makes for a fun dip.
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Granada
Only 45 minutes from Managua, Granada is the oldest colonial town on the American mainland and is a true architectural gem. Granada drips with photogenic elegance, a picture postcard at every turn. It’s no wonder many travellers use the city as a base, spending at least a day bopping along cobblestone roads from church to church in the city centre, then venturing out into the countryside for trips to nearby attractions. Sitting on the shores of Lake Nicaragua, the area not only includes the city itself, but also the Isletas – 300+ islands sitting offshore in the lake, the green forests of Mombacho Volcano and the unique crystal waters of the Laguna de Apoyo. Culturally curious travelers might consider a trip to community-tourism operations in nearby villages such as Nicaragua Libre, or out to Parque Nacional Archipiélago Zapatera, home to one of the most impressive collections of petroglyphs and statues in the country
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Las Isletas
An easy morning or afternoon trip from Granada takes you by boat to this miniature archipelago of 365 tiny tropical islands. Along the way you'll spot rare birds, colorful flowers and some interesting indigenous fauna – keep your eye out for osprey, kingfishers, caimans and howler monkeys (along the mainland). The privately owned islands that would make a tremendous evil lair are highlights, as well as lunch at the handful of island hotels and restaurants.
There’s even a Spanish fortress. Castillo San Pablo was built in 1784 and has great views of Granada and Volcán Mombacho, plus a fine swimming hole nearby.
Most tours also pass Isla de los Monos (Monkey Island). The spider- and capuchin-monkey residents are friendly (they were brought here by a veterinarian living on a nearby island), but may run off with your picnic lunch.
Most tour companies run trips to Las Isletas, or do it yourself with Inuit Kayaks, about 1km from the Centro Turístico entrance, an outfitter that runs several guided kayak tours. Touts will offer to hook you up with a boat tour as soon as you enter the Centro Turístico. If you’re on your own or in a small group, wait around until a larger group forms (unless you want to pay for the whole boat yourself – around US$20 for a one-hour tour); the boat operators will offer discount seats just to fill their boat up. For the best birdwatching, arrange your trip the day before to leave at dawn. Sunset is also quite nice, but the tour is quicker, with less exploration of the further-afield corners of the island group.
A turnoff to the right, just after Inuit Kayaks (look for the sign saying ‘Marina Cocibolca’), takes you to the other side of the Peninsula de Asese to Puerto Asese, where you can hire boats to tour the isletas on this side. This is a less popular option, so chances of forming an impromptu group are slimmer. The advantage of a tour here is that there are fewer power lines and other boats, so it’s a more tranquil experience, but it involves a fair bit of time in open water. There are numerous restaurants in the island chain. Ask your boat operator to include a stop at one, where a large meal of locally caught fish will cost around US$7.50.
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Reserva Natural Volcán Mombacho
It’s been a few decades since this 1345m volcano, the defining feature of the Granada skyline, has acted up, but it is still most certainly active and sends up the periodic puff of smoke. It’s easy to get to the crown of cloud forest, steaming with fumaroles and other bubbling volcanic activity beneath the misty vines and orchids. Most visitors come here on guided tours from Granada.
Reserva Natural Volcán Mombacho is managed by the Fundación Cocibolca, which since 1999 has been building trails and running an eco-mobile (think refurbished military jeeps seating 25) on the 40% grade up to 1100m. Get there early to take the short trail through the organic coffee farm, or check out the mariposario (butterfly garden) and orchid garden (free with entrance), close to the parking lot.
At the top you can find three species of monkey, 168 species of bird and more than 100 types of orchids as part of the jungle canopy that this park is intent on preserving. There is a choice of several trails, including Sendero del Cráter, a 1.5km jaunt to the fumaroles, plus great views of Granada and Las Isletas, and Sendero la Puma, a steeper 4km trek around the lip of the crater, with even better views. Guides, many of whom speak English, are available at the entrance and cost US$12 to US$22 per group of up to seven. Guides are required for a trek up Sendero el Tigrillo, a heart-pumping two-hour tromp up to two overlooks.
The park is open to the public with regular hours on Friday, Saturday and Sunday. However, groups of 10 or more can make arrangements to visit on other days. Time your arrival to coincide with an eco-mobile departure, at 8:30am, 10am and 1pm. Public transportation here is inconvenient: most visitors drive themselves here or come on an organized tour from Granada.
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Reserva Natural Laguna de Apoyo
Set in a picturesque valley brimming with wildlife, the lovely Apoyo crater lake is another one of Nicaragua’s many natural wonders. Dry tropical rainforest along the surrounding slopes contains much biodiversity, including howler monkeys and many species of bats. But the real attraction is the pristine water of the lagoon, a massive, mineral-infused pool that is without doubt the best swim in the country.
There’s a free beach at the bottom of the road; look for the trail just to the right of the T intersection. Otherwise, pay for a day pass at one of the hotels for access to their beaches, docks and kayaks (US$5 to US$7).
You can easily visit Laguna de Apoyo as a day trip from Granada, but it's wonderful to wake up here, and there are several good places to stay – including a number of rental houses that are ideal if you're staying for more than a night or two.

Carazo Towns
Southwest of the Pueblos Blancos, in Carazo region, San Marcos and the ‘twin cities’ of Jinotepe and Diriamba are set in a citrus- and coffee-cultivation area. The three towns celebrate a distinctive religious and folklore ritual known as ‘Toro Guaco,’ in which the Nicarao town of Jinotepe and Diriamba, its Chorotega rival before the European conquest, commemorate their relationship.
Buses to Diriamba, Jinotepe and San Marcos depart from one block south of the market in Granada (US$1, 45 minutes, hourly until 6pm). There are extremely frequent departures from Masaya and Managua, as well.

Catarina
The gorgeous village of Catarina is known for its mirador (lookout point), which offers sweeping views of Laguna de Apoyo, Lago de Nicaragua and the city of Granada.

San Juan de Oriente
San Juan de Oriente may be home to fewer than 3000 people, but it is the most important center of artisanal pottery in Nicaragua. At workshops all over town, you can watch the artists at work.

Diria
Rarely visited by tourists, the friendly village of Diria is the gateway to the Mirador el Boquete, an alternate lookout over Laguna de Apoyo.

Masaya
Coming from Granada, Masaya may seem a bit down at heel. This is a very workaday little town, unexceptional but for two things – a wonderful, crumbling malecón (waterfront walkway) and the famous artisan market, Mercado de Artesanías de Masaya, where you can stock up for every birthday, Christmas and anniversary for the rest of your life without buying two of the same thing. Nicaraguan tourists, by the way, always make sure their visit coincides with one of Masaya’s many spectacular festivals, and there are cultural exhibitions and dances every Thursday evening.
Masaya is 29km southeast of Managua and 16km northwest of Granada. The city sits at the edge of Laguna de Masaya, beyond which rises Volcán Masaya, which can be visited on day trips from here or Granada.
One of the best ways to see the town is in a horse-drawn carriage, which costs about US$3 per person for the grand tour.

Parque Nacional Volcán Masaya
Nicaragua's largest national park is built around Volcán Masaya and its system of calderas and craters – including the enormous and ancient crater called El Ventarrón, with a barely perceptible rim that runs from Ticuantepe to Masatepe – and around the Laguna de Masaya.
Volcán Masaya is the most heavily venting volcano in Nicaragua, and in a more litigious nation there is no way you'd be allowed to drive up to the lip of a volcanic cone as volatile as the Santiago crater. In 2001, an eruption hurled heated rocks 500m into the air, damaging cars and narrowly missing people.
Try to arrive in the afternoon, when the crater’s thousands of chocoyos (parakeets) return to their nests in the crater walls, apparently unharmed by the billowing toxic gases. There’s always lava bubbling at the bottom (you probably won’t see it, though), and a column of sulphurous gases rising above.
The park entrance is 7km north of Masaya. You pay for your entry (US$4) and guided hikes at the entrance gate, and you'll receive a handy brochure with a map and useful information in Spanish and English. Many travellers come here on organized tours with transportation included. Any Managua-bound bus from Masaya or Granada can drop you at the entrance, but it’s a steep, hot climb to the crater;

Rivas
Rivas has its fans – people say it’s authentic and lively. But with the beaches, lake and Ometepe beckoning, few travellers pause here long enough to find out. Nearby San Jorge, with easy access to the ferries to Ometepe, is preferable for an overnight.

San Jorge
This relaxed spot, 6km east of Rivas, is where most travellers head to cross over to Isla de Ometepe. The center of town is 1km from the ferry dock, but it's more convenient to stay near the lake.
The road from Rivas to San Jorge ends at the ferry terminal, where there’s regular boat service to Isla de Ometepe. Eighteen boats make the trip from San Jorge to Isla de Ometepe (US$1.50 to US$3, one hour) each day between 7am and 5:45pm. Buses leave for Rivas almost hourly from the ferry terminal, passing by the Parque Central. Taxis charge about US$5 to US$6 for a ride between the Rivas bus terminal and the San Jorge ferry terminal.

Isla de Ometepe
Ometepe never fails to impress. Its twin volcanic peaks, rising up out of Lago de Nicaragua, have captured the imagination of everyone from precolonial Aztecs (who thought they’d found the promised land) to Mark Twain (who waxed lyrical about it in his book Travels with Mr Brown) – not to mention the relatively few travellers who make it out here. The island’s fertile volcanic soil, clean waters, wide beaches, wildlife population, archaeological sites and dramatic profile are quickly propelling it up traveller tick lists.
To get to Isla de Ometepe from this side of the mainland, you’ll need to first pass through rough-and-tumble Rivas, then get a boat from San Jorge.
Ometepe is great for hiking, exploring and swimming. However, the terrain is rough, signage minimal and trails hard to follow. Since a number of tourists got lost and died while climbing the volcanoes, authorities have made local guides mandatory for these trips. Guides can be hired at tour operators in Moyogalpa and Altagracia or through hotels.
Both of the volcanoes are challenging. Volcán Maderas is the more accessible of the two, a tough, muddy scramble through cloud forest to the crater, where there’s a greenish lake below. It’s about eight hours there and back. There are several routes to the top; the trails leaving from Finca Magdalena, Mérida and El Porvenir are the most used.
Volcán Concepción is a pretty serious 10- to 12-hour hike, the last bit up steep and slippery volcanic scree. Be prepared for intense heat (sun, not lava), and also for chills at the summit. The two main trails leave from points near Altagracia and Moyogalpa.
There are great beaches and swimming spots all around the island; check out Punta Jesús María, Playa Venecia and the Isla de Quiste, a beautiful islet not far from Charco Verde. The most popular beach, Playa Santo Domingo, is on the isthmus connecting the two volcanoes, and has plenty of places to stay and eat. Many of the sleeping options have horses, bikes or kayaks to hire at reasonable rates.

Moyogalpa
Moyogalpa is home to the ferry terminal for hourly boats from the mainland, and, as such, the nerve center for Ometepe’s nascent tourist industry. There are several hotels and restaurants here, and many of the island’s tour companies; it’s also base camp for the climb up Volcán Concepción. But it's not exactly an island paradise you'll want to linger in: you're only passing through.

Punta Jesús María
Around 5km south of Moyogalpa, and easily reached by bicycle, is the remarkable Punta Jesús María, a narrow sandbar that juts out into the lake, forming a natural pier perfect for swimming and picnics.
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Altagracia
With more natural protection from Concepción’s occasional lava flow than Moyogalpa, this is the original indigenous capital of Ometepe, and still the island’s most important town. For travellers, there's not much to see here, but it can be a convenient base for exploring the surrounding area – and a good place to crash if your boat gets in late from Granada.

Playa Santo Domingo
Windswept sandy beaches and many of the island’s finest accommodations lie southeast of Altagracia, on the long and lovely lava isthmus that cradles Playa Santo Domingo.

Santa Cruz
Here the beaches gets progressively less crowded. Santa Cruz itself has a few places to eat and sleep, and the views are gorgeous.

Cascada San Ramón
This stunning 40m waterfall is one of the jewels of the island. The trail begins at the Estación Biológica de Ometepe; it’s a steep, four-hour round-trip on an easy-to-follow trail that’s lost some of its charm since lots of trees were cut down. But it’s still mossy and beautiful at the top, and fabulous for a dip on a hot day.

San Juan del Sur
Easy-going San Juan del Sur is the hub for exploration of Nicaragua's toned-and-tanned southern Pacific beaches. The town itself, with its clapboard Victorian houses, a towering statue of Christ on a neighbouring hillside and a steady influx of young and beautiful international travellers and surfers, is quite fun, with a good range of dining, drinking, shopping and nightlife venues.
And while the o
nce-sleepy fishing village doesn't sit on an amazing stretch of coastline – you need to head just north or south for that – its half-moon, brown-sugar beach is pretty for a sunset stroll. Top it all off with a string of world-class surfing enclaves located within easy distance of town, and you have all the workings to kick off an amazing adventure in paradise.

Playa Maderas
A good-time-vibes backpacker and surfer hangout, this stunning beach – with rocky expanses that offer excellent tide pooling and wide, wonderful sandy stretches for sunbathing – is famed for having one of the best beach breaks in the country. The surf break here, sometimes called Los Playones, is a slow wave in fairly deep (2m) water, good for beginners, with two right and two left breaks that get hollow on a rising tide.
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Playa Hermosa
Playa Hermosa is famous for great surfing – there are five breaks on this beach alone – and a cool, lost-in-paradise vibe. It's a privately owned beach, so you'll need to pay an entrance fee of US$10 at Playa Hermosa Ecolodge. Here, at the lodge and surf camp, you can also arrange activities like horseback riding, sailing, fishing, ziplining and the like.
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Playa El Coco
This is a world-class beach – a spectacular stretch of sparkling sand punctuated by cliffs so pretty that they grace about half of the country’s tourist literature. Prices here are steep for the area.

Playa El Ostional
This fishing village, practically a stone’s throw from the Costa Rican border, has an attractive brown-sugar beach that's often totally empty. These calm waters are great for snorkelling and swimming; the beach is a lovely spot to get away from it all while still remaining in easy distance of San Juan del Sur. As the tide rolls in, fisherfolk push their colourful wooden boats out into the surf – a prime photo opportunity.

Leon
Intensely political, buzzing with energy and, at times, drop-dead gorgeous (in a crumbling, colonial kind of way), León is what Managua should be – a city of awe-inspiring churches, fabulous art collections, stunning streetscapes, cosmopolitan eateries, fiery intellectualism, and all-week, walk-everywhere, happening nightlife. Many people fall in love with Granada, but most of them leave their heart in León.
The city is strollable, but big enough that you may want to take taxis, particularly at night. The one-way streets and (relative) lack of traffic make León a good cycling city

Poneloya & Las Peñitas Beaches
The most accessible beaches from León are Poneloya and Las Peñitas, both an easy 20-minute bus ride from Mercadito Subtiaba in León. The road splits at the sea: go right for Poneloya proper, left for more developed La Peñitas and Reserva Natural Isla Juan Venado.
Several wilder, less accessible beaches further south are a bit more difficult to reach, including Salinas Grandes, with regular bus service from León and its own access to Reserva Natural Isla Juan Venado. A group of three even less explored beaches can be reached from the fractured but passable Carretera Vieja to Managua: Puerto Sandino, El Velero and El Tránsito.

Reserva Natural Isla Juan Venado
This 18km-long, sandy barrier island (in some places only 300m wide) has swimming holes and lots of wildlife, including nesting turtles and mosquitoes galore. On one side of the uninhabited island you’ll find long, wild, sandy beaches facing the Pacific, on the other, red and black mangroves reflected in emerald lagoons.
During the turtle egg-laying season, which runs July through January and peaks in September and October, thousands of olive ridleys, careys and leatherbacks lay their eggs in El Vivero, close to the Las Peñitas entrance. For the best wildlife-watching opportunities, it's best to go at low tide, or at dawn or sunset if you're especially interested in birds.
Several hotels and lodges in an around town offer guided boat tours of the reserve. You can also go to the reserve yourself if you can negotiate a ride with a local fisher. Another option is to hire a local guide and rent a kayak.

Corinto
Nicaragua’s only deep-water port was originally a much older town, Puerto El Realejo; founded in 1522, it was subsequently attacked by such famous pirates as William Dampier and John Davis. As time passed and sand filled in the estuary, the barrier island of Punto Icaco became the port, where Corinto was founded in 1858.
Corinto’s 19th-century wooden row houses, narrow streets and broad beaches score high on the ‘adorability potential’ scale, although actual adorability ratings are much lower. It’s a bit sad: although some 65% of the nation’s imports and exports flow through, very little of the money stays here. Cruise ships arrive throughout the year, but passengers are whisked away to more scenic spots

Reserva Natural Estero Padre Ramos
This river delta is part of the largest remaining mangrove forests in Central America, and is key in the proposed Reserva Biologica Golfo de Fonseca (Gulf of Fonseca Biological Corridor), a wetlands conservation agreement between Nicaragua, Honduras and El Salvador.
There's not much tourist infrastructure here, but hotels in the area offer boat, kayak and birding tours for around US$10 to US$40 per person. Sea turtles lay their eggs here between July and December, peaking in October and November.

Esteli
Estelí has a multifaceted soul. On weekdays you can wake up with sunrise yoga before Spanish class; on Saturday you can mingle with farmers at the massive produce market, then see them again at midnight, dancing like mad in a ranchero bar. And we haven’t even mentioned the world-class cigars or the zeal with which a city with socialist roots has taken to slot machines. You don’t have to be a Che Guevara devotee to dig this town.
Set on the Pan-American Highway close to the Honduran border, Estelí was a strategic gateway that saw heavy fighting and helped turn the revolution and, later, the Contra War. It's no surprise then, that Estelí has remained one of the Sandinistas’ strongest support bases.
Although Estelí's most impressive attractions are in the surrounding mountains, the 1823 Catedral has a wonderful facade and is worth a wander. Keep an eye out for the interesting murals that crop up about town, many of which were painted by participants in the Funarte children's mural workshop.

Área Protegida Miraflor
Part nature reserve, part rural farming community, it's challenging to get to and even more difficult to define. There are no big hotels or restaurants here, just a loose collection of like-minded farmers with an interest in tourism and the environment.
Its namesake is a small mountain lake around which the Área Protegida Miraflor (declared a reserve in 1999) unfurls with waterfalls, blooming orchids, coffee plantations, swatches of remnant cloud forest home to hold-out monkey troops, hiking trails and dozens of collective-farming communities that welcome tourists. Yes, nature is glorious here, but the chance to participate in rural Nicaraguan life – making fresh tortillas, milking cows, harvesting coffee, riding horses through the hills with local caballeros (horsemen) – is unforgettable.
Advanced reservations are essential to ensure visitor income is distributed evenly among participating farmers and your hosts are prepared for your arrival. There are several choices of accommodations within the reserve, all of which should be booked through UCA Miraflor or Tree Huggers in Estelí.
Miraflor has three climate zones (ranging from 800m to 1400m) and is home to over 200 species of orchid and 307 bird species, linked by 20km of trails and rutted roads. The zona bajo (low zone), around Coyolito, is a tropical, oak savannah ecosystem; the zona intermedia (intermediate zone), which includes Sontule, has some remnant cloud forests and tons of orchid varieties; in the zona alta (high zone), you’ll find coffee farms, more swatches of cloud forest, and some excellent quetzal and monkey viewing near Cebollal in Los Volcancitos.

Área Protegida Cerro Tisey-Estanzuela
Smaller, drier and less populated but every bit as gorgeous as Área Protegida Miraflor, this other protected area, just 10km south of Estelí, has also jumped on the tourism bandwagon. You won’t see the same species diversity in Tisey (which is what locals call the region), but those rugged, pine-draped mountains, red-clay bat caves, waterfalls and marvelous vistas that stretch to Lago de Managua – and even El Salvador on clear days – are worth the trip. It's possible to visit Tisey on a day trip from Estelí; however, the reserve's attractions are spread out all over its 93 sq km and public transportation is limited so you'll see more if you spend the night.
The main entrance to Tisey is accessed from the dirt road beside Hospital San Juan de Dios in Estelí. In the park’s lower elevations, just 5km from Estelí, is the inspiring Salto Estanzuela, a gushing 36m waterfall that careens over a bromeliad-studded cliff and breaks into a half-dozen foaming threads that feed a perfect swimming hole. Locals descend in hordes during Semana Santa.
After the falls, the road begins to climb high into the mountains before arriving at the Eco-Posada, where you’ll find a handful of Spanish-speaking guides for hire.

Somoto
Diminutive Somoto has not always been a shoo-in on the itineraries of visitors to northern Nicaragua. In fact, until 2003 this was just another sleepy colonial town in the Honduran shadow, famed for its donkeys and rosquillas (crusty cornbread rings). Then two Czech scientists stumbled onto a rift in the rugged, overgrown clay earth outside town and, just 75 million years after these charcoal granite cliffs pierced the earth’s surface, Europeans ‘discovered’ Cañon de Somoto (Somoto Canyon), where the Río Coco is born.
Of course, the locals living nearby have known about it all along and formerly referred to the site as 'La Estrechura' (The Narrows), while it's said that the area's original inhabitants, the Chorotegas, referred to the region as Tepezonate (Mountain of Water).

Somoto Canyon
The Coco (or Wangki), Central America’s longest river, runs all the way to the Caribbean, but its first impression may be its most spectacular. Gushing from underground, it has carved solid rock into this 3km-long gorge that drops 160m, and at times is just a hair under 10m wide. Protected as Monumento Nacional Cañon de Somoto, the canyon is an unmissable experience.
There are three routes to explore the canyon. You won’t always have comfortable footing, so reef shoes or sandals help a lot, and you’ll have more fun if you’re fit. Within the canyon proper there is one deep stretch of about 200m where you'll have to swim (tours will always supply life vests).
The full six-hour, 13km circuit will take you to two bat caves well above the rim before you hike down to the river, boulder-hop, swim through (small) rapids and leap off 8m rocks into deep swimming holes. This version is highly recommended for nature fanatics, as you'll hike through pristine landscapes and get to see the point where the Tapacalí and Comali rivers join at the birthplace of the Río Coco.
The most popular option is the four-hour, 6km classic loop: you head straight to the far entrance of the canyon, from where you’ll swim, hike and leap beneath slate-rock faces and jagged peaks until you reach the exit.
For those who are adverse to exercise, there is also a three-hour 'lite' tour where you are paddled up the gorge a short distance in a small boat and then can splash around in the canyon mouth or float around in an inflatable tube.
Following a couple of incidents, local guides are now mandatory if you want to venture inside the canyon. In addition to having expert knowledge of river conditions – which can become dangerous during the wet season – guides also blend local insight with adventure and create a richer experience.

Jinotega
Hidden in a cat’s eye of a valley, Jinotega, the 'City of Mists,' is enclosed on all sides by mountains dappled in cloud forests, crowned with granite ridges and pocked with deep gorges. While coffee tourism percolates in Matagalpa, Jinotega, which brims with adventure and promise, still sees far more foreign-aid workers than tourists. So walk these cobbled streets, visit nearby Lago de Apanás and hike into the misty mountains, where you can harvest coffee with locals and stroll through primary forest. Just make sure to get to Cerro La Cruz on a clear day to glimpse the cat’s eye in all her jade glory. The average temperature is just 20°C (68°F) and the town can get 2600mm of rain annually. Bring rain gear and a fleece for the cool evenings.

Matagalpa
If you love coffee, mountains and urbanity, then have your cake and eat it in Matagalpa, a town where, for decades, an ever-increasing number of Liberal coffee patriarchs and subsistence Sandinista farmers have rubbed shoulders during city festivals and at market. Growth has sent Matagalpa sprawling into the foothills, up crumbling streets lined with shacks and onto graded plateaus laid out in tony subdivisions. Just glance skyward from nearly every city street and you’ll see pristine boulder-strewn peaks.
When you’ve sipped your last cup of city, head for the hills, where you can hike through primary forest to gushing waterfalls, pick coffee, explore mineshafts and listen to ranchero troubadours jam under a harvest moon. If you're looking for a base from which to explore the best the region has to offer or just want to hang around in an accessible, authentic city, it's hard to beat Matagalpa.

Bosawás Biosphere Reserve
If you are the kind of traveler that relishes dropping off the radar, the Reserva de Biosfera Bosawás is the place for you. The largest rainforest in the Americas after the Amazon, it’s a magical place of spectacular forested peaks and fast-flowing rivers that rush past tiny indigenous villages. With no roads, no hotels and no electricity, it’s a tough place to visit, but the potential for adventure is enormous.
The easiest way into the reserve is via the town of Wiwili on the Río Coco in northern Jinotega department. There is no public transportation on the river, but if you’re not in a hurry, it’s possible to travel all the way to the Caribbean using the boats of local traders and organizations. Once you get into the reserve proper, the only places to stay are in indigenous Mayanga and Miskito villages, where you can often arrange some sort of accommodations. It can get cold at night, so bring warm clothes as well as plenty of food, water purification tablets and a flashlight.

Bluefields
With brick streets etched into a series of jade peninsulas, Bluefields (the city) stretches into Bluefields (the bay) like many fingers. In between is a series of docks, floating restaurants, shipwrecks, and fish and produce markets. The city was once full of old wood Victorian charm before Category IV Hurricane Juana wiped it off the map in 1988. Today’s Bluefields is rather overindulgent in new concrete boxes, especially in the loud knot of streets downtown that eventually give way to poor tin-roof neighbourhoods that ramble over nearby hillsides and inland along polluted brackish creeks.
While it is not your typical Caribbean dream destination, if you give it a chance and get to know some of the town's colourful locals, Bluefields' decaying tropical charm will definitely grow on you. Still, you probably won’t linger too long. After all, you are just a boat ride away from the intriguing Pearl Lagoon basin, the spectacular Pearl Keys and those luscious Corn Islands.

Rama Cay
Located inside Bluefields' bay, this barbell-shaped island is home to around 800 people – around half of all remaining Rama Indians. Isolated by the dominant Miskito culture, they still speak their own language and use their traditional government structures. It's a crowded place and a trip here is a cultural experience rather than a relaxing Caribbean island excursion.
Visits can be organized through the GTRK office in Bluefields, which can arrange transportation and also lodging.

Pearl Lagoon
Dirt roads and palm trees, reggae music, and an English-speaking Creole community that fishes the local waters for shrimp, fish and lobster, and still refers to Spanish-speaking Nicaraguans as ‘the Spaniards. The best part is that despite its obvious charms, this town still sees very few tourists – which means you may well be the only foreigner buzzing through the mangroves and jungle that surround Pearl Lagoon (the bay). The bay is a timeless expanse of black water and home to more than a dozen ethnic fishing villages.
If your Caribbean dream is tinted turquoise, you can easily arrange a tour of the nearby Pearl Keys, where you’ll find sugar-white beaches that double as turtle hatcheries, and swaying coconut palms that lull you into inner peace. Of course, nothing tops off a day on the water like cold beer, lobster with coconut sauce and heavy doses of reggae music, all of which are available among Pearl Lagoon’s collection of restaurants and bars sprinkled along traffic-free roads patrolled by fishers, their families and free-roaming horses.

Great Corn Island
Great Corn is the larger of the two and peopled by a Creole population that lives in colourful wooden houses, many of which are sprinkled along the main road that encircles the island. And though tourism is the second-largest industry, behind lobster fishing, you won’t see mega-developments here. Great Corn is on the shortlist for most authentic Caribbean island. Here are barefoot bars, commercial fishing wharfs, pickup baseball games on the beach, smiling young lobster divers catch-in-hand, an ever-present armada of elders sitting in rocking chairs on creaky front porches and elegant virgin beaches backed by picturesque headlands. It’s a place where reggae and country music can coexist without irony. Where fresh lobster is a staple ingredient rather than a luxury. And the longer you stay, the less you want to leave.
Great Corn measures about 6 sq km and is looped by one main road – which has several spur roads that lead to various beaches and neighbourhoods. Long Bay is where you’ll find the island’s best stretch of golden sand. It arcs from a pile-up of local fishing pangas and lobster traps to a wild, jungle-covered headland. If you’re looking for a place to snooze and swim in absolute tranquillity, this is your destination. Southwest Bay beckons with another outstanding wide beach. The water here is calmer but the area is more developed and less rustic.
Walk up the dirt trail behind the Sunrise Hotel in South End past the banana groves and you will be rewarded with panoramic views from Mt Pleasant as the sun plunges beneath the Caribbean Sea. Or make your way to Quinn Hill, where Spanish artist Rafael Trénor has installed a cube (the lower half is buried to make it look like a pyramid) symbolizing one of the earth’s eight vortex points as part of his Soul of the World Project.

Little Corn Island
Little Corn, a tiny, jungled, car-less jewel, actually attracts more tourists, with most visitors heading for funky, creative beachside cabañas that are the perfect setting for Robinson Crusoe 2.0. The dive sites are more diverse on Little Corn, the jungle is thick and the food is outrageously good, which explains why so many ignore the larger island and indulge in car-free tranquillity. But there is a catch: during high season there can be more foreigners than locals.
The northern end of the island is the most secluded, has the best beaches and is the perfect setting for your Crusoe homage. Locals live, drink, dine, shoot pool and dance in the Village, which is set on a serene harbor sheltered from the north winds. The rugged, windy eastern coast makes for a transcendent afternoon of beachcombing: gorgeous white-sand beaches are framed by boulders, driftwood, headlands and coconut groves.
The island’s best and most picturesque beaches are on opposite ends of the island. Sadly, many of the beaches on the windward side had lost a fair bit of their sand to erosion, although locals say that with an extended set of good north winds the sand should pile up again.

Puerto Cabezas (Bilwi)
Old wooden churches, antique craftsman homes and ramshackle slums are knitted together with rusted sheet-metal fencing, coconut palms and mango trees. This impoverished Caribbean port town and ethnic melting pot sprawls along the coast and back into the scrubby pines on wide brick streets and red-earth roads, full of people and music, smiles and sideways glances.
There is next to no tourism in Bilwi; missionaries and aid workers still far outnumber travellers here. Beaches around Bilwi are nobody’s idea of the Caribbean dream. La Bocana, an old pirate hangout at the river mouth north of town, has a stretch of decent beach, but crooks also like this area - rather come with a local.

San Carlos
The capital of the isolated Río San Juan department is the gateway to some of Nicaragua’s most compelling countryside but is itself a curious place with a bit of an identity crisis. During the day it is a busy international port filled with herds of travellers in transit, which explains the bustling and festive malecón (waterfront) lined with restaurants. But when night falls, and the magnificent views disappear with the setting sun, it reverts to a rather lacklustre small town where gossiping is the main form of entertainment.
Most travellers spend their San Carlos hours by exploring the old Spanish fortress, planning river and island adventures, stocking up on córdoba and checking emails one last time before they drop off-grid for a while.

Islas Solentiname
Solentiname comprises 36 islands; the largest are Mancarrón, San Fernando (also called Isla Elvis Chavarría) and Venada (Isla Donald Guevara). The first two have the principal facilities for travellers. Mancarrón also has the islands’ most famous sight, the simple yet beautiful adobe church that was the spiritual and communal centre of Cardenal’s community. Near here is an interesting archaeological exhibition, while a short walk away is El Refugio, the main community on the island, where you can wander among the local homes watching artisans create brightly painted balsa carvings.
San Fernando has an excellent museum, with informative displays on the pre-Columbian residents of the archipelago, as well as a gallery that showcases the work of some of the islands’ best artists. There are many petroglyphs scattered around the islands, which make appealing destinations for hikes – there are also caves to explore on Isla Venada.

Río San Juan
The Río San Juan surges purposefully through rolling green hills, thick jungle and wetlands on its irrepressible march to the Caribbean.
it was once the domain of indigenous traders, Spanish conquistadors, British pirates, gold hunting travellers and even Mark Twain. Follow their example and penetrate the vine-hung wilderness of jaguars and macaws that is the Reserva Biológica Indio-Maíz.

Boca de Sábalos
It feels like that thick jungle looming on its edges is about to reclaim this muddy, dusty town set at the confluence of the Río San Juan and Río Sábalos (Tarpon River). And therein lies its appeal. When you lounge on the terrace of your hotel, lodge or guesthouse at sunset, you’ll watch birds fish and ride end-of-the-day thermals as you hear that familiar, primordial roar of the howler monkeys.

El Castillo
Cute, compact and crowned with its stunning 17th-century Spanish fortress, it's no surprise that diminutive El Castillo is the Río San Juan's showpiece destination. It’s laced with pebbled-concrete walking paths that wind up, down and around the hill, shaded by mango, coconut, orange and almond trees, and cradled by the Río San Juan – wide and foaming with two sets of rapids that proved to be the bane of British pirates for centuries. A town this civilized means that the jungle has been tamed here. So don’t expect the howlers to sing you to sleep. The good news is that you are just 15 minutes by boat from Nicaragua’s best-preserved lowland rainforest, the Reserva Biológica Indio-Maíz.