Panama City
Arguably the most cosmopolitan capital in Central America, Panama City is both vibrant metropolis and gateway to tropical escapes. Many worlds coexist here. Welcoming both East and West, Panama is a regional hub of trade and immigration. The resulting cultural cocktail forges a refreshing 'anything goes' attitude, more dynamic and fluid than its neighbors.
Unflinchingly urban, the capital rides the rails of chaos, with traffic jams, wayward taxis and casinos stacked between chic clubs and construction sites. A center of international banking and trade, the sultry skyline of shimmering glass and steel towers is reminiscent of Miami. In contrast, the peninsula of Casco Viejo has become a thriving colonial neighbourhood where cobblestones link boutique hotels with underground bars and crumbled ruins with pirate lore.
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Panama Canal Murals
The story of the monumental effort to build the Panama Canal is powerfully depicted in murals by notable artist William B Van Ingen of New York. The murals are mounted in the rotunda of the Panama Canal Administration Building. The paintings have the distinction of being the largest group of murals by an American artist on display outside the USA.
It's closed on weekends, but guards may allow visits between 10am and 2:30pm if you ask politely.

Casco Viejo
Following the destruction of the old city by Captain Henry Morgan in 1671, the Spanish moved their city 8km southwest to a rocky peninsula at the foot of Cerro Ancón. The new location was easier to defend as the reefs prevented ships from approaching the city except at high tide. The new city was also easy to defend, as a massive wall surrounded it, which is how Casco Viejo (Old Compound) got its name.
In 1904, when construction began on the Panama Canal, all of Panama City existed where Casco Viejo stands today. However, as population growth and urban expansion pushed the boundaries of Panama City further east, the city’s elite abandoned Casco Viejo and the neighborhood rapidly deteriorated into a slum.
Today, Casco Viejo's crumbling facades have been mostly replaced by immaculate renovations. Declared a Unesco World Heritage Site in 2003, the area is getting international recognition. The newly restored architecture gives a sense of how magnificent the neighbourhood must have looked in past years. Some developers, committed to mitigating the effects of gentrification here, are creating one affordable unit for each high-end one constructed, and are working on interesting local cultural initiatives. Yet the Today, Casco Viejo's crumbling facades have been mostly replaced by immaculate renovations. Declared a Unesco World Heritage Site in 2003, the area is getting international recognition. The newly restored architecture gives a sense of how magnificent the neighborhood must have looked in past years. Some developers, committed to mitigating the effects of gentrification here, are creating one affordable unit for each high-end one constructed, and are working on interesting local cultural initiatives. Yet the consensus is that most of the neighbourhood's former occupants have already been relegated to the periphery.

Panamá Viejo
Founded on August 15, 1519, by Spanish conquistador Pedro Arias de Ávila, the city of Panamá was the first European settlement along the Pacific. For the next 150 years it profited mainly from Spain’s famed bullion pipeline, which ran from Peru’s gold and silver mines to Europe via Panamá. Because of the amount of wealth that passed through the city, the Spaniards kept many soldiers here, and their presence kept the buccaneers away. That was until 1671 when 1200 pirates led by Captain Henry Morgan ascended the Río Chagres and proceeded overland to Panamá where the Spanish force fell to pieces and nearly everything of value was either plundered and divvied up or destroyed by fire.
For the next three centuries, the abandoned city served as a convenient source of building materials. By the time the government declared the ruins a protected site in 1976 (UNESCO followed suit in 1997), most of the old city had already been dismantled and overrun.
So little of the original city remains that its size, layout and appearance are the subject of much conjecture. Today, much of Panamá Viejo lies buried under a poor residential neighbourhood, though the ruins are a must-see, even if only to stand on the hallowed grounds of one of Central America’s greatest cities.
For safety reasons it’s best to explore the area during daylight hours.

Parque Natural Metropolitano
n a hill north of downtown, the 265-hectare Parque Natural Metropolitan protects vast expanses of tropical semideciduous forest within the city limits. It serves as an incredible wilderness escape from the trappings of the capital. Two main walking trails, the Nature Trail and the Tití Monkey Trail, join to form one long loop, with a 150m-high mirador (lookout) offering panoramic views of Panama City, the bay and the canal, all the way to the Miraflores Locks.
Pick up a pamphlet for a self-guided tour in Spanish and English at the visitors center , 40m north of the park entrance.
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Miraflores Visitors Center
One of the world’s greatest human-made marvels, the Panama Canal stretches 80km from Panama City on the Pacific side to Colón on the Atlantic side, cutting right through the continental divide. Around 14,000 vessels pass through each year, and ships worldwide are built with the dimensions of the canal’s locks (305m long and 33.5m wide) in mind.
The canal has three sets of double locks: Miraflores and Pedro Miguel on the Pacific side and Gatún on the Atlantic. Between the locks, ships pass through a huge artificial lake, Lago Gatún, created by the Gatún Dam across the Río Chagres, and the Culebra Cut, a 14km cut through the rock and shale of the isthmian mountains. With the passage of each ship, a staggering 197 million L of fresh water is released into the ocean.
The easiest and best way to visit the Panama Canal is to head to the Miraflores Visitors Center, located just outside Panama City. This modern visitors center features a large four-floor interactive museum, several viewing platforms and an excellent restaurant serving sumptuous buffet spreads with panoramic views of canal transit. Tip: the best time to view big liners passing through is from 9am to 11am and from 3pm to 5pm, when they are more frequent.

Pedro Miguel Locks
North past the Miraflores Locks, the Pedro Miguel Locks can be seen from the highway to Gamboa. One hundred meters beyond the locks there’s a parking strip from where onlookers can watch ships transit the canal.

Parque Nacional Soberanía
This 22,104-hectare park is one of the most accessible tropical rainforests in Panama. It extends much of the way across the isthmus, from Limón on Lago Gatún to just north of Paraíso. It features hiking trails, the Río Chagres, part of Lago Gatún and a remarkable variety of wildlife. Leaflets and information about the park, including a brochure for self-guided walks along the nature trail, are available from park headquarters near Gamboa.
Known residents include 105 species of mammal, 525 species of bird, 55 species of amphibian, 79 species of reptile and 36 species of freshwater fish. Hiking trails in the park include a section of the old Sendero Las Cruces (Las Cruces Trail) and the 17km Pipeline Rd, providing access to Río Agua Salud, where you can walk upriver for a swim under a waterfall.
In order to fully appreciate the wildlife here, it's wise to hire a guide.
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Panama Rainforest Discovery Center
Geared towards ecotourism and environmental education, this is an excellent facility for birdwatchers and nature-lovers. Since you are probably here to watch wildlife, it’s worth making an effort to roll out of bed early. You will be rewarded for the effort. In fact, those arriving after 10am pay US$10 less in admission, a sure sign that you're getting less bang for your buck. During premium hours, just 25 visitors are admitted at one time to minimize the impact on wildlife.
A 32m-high observation tower is great for spotting blue cotinga and toucans. The sustainably built visitors center provides information and has 13 species of hummingbirds feeding nearby. Guides at the visitors center and tower can point out wildlife. Currently, a 1.2km circuit of forest trails offers options that range from easy to difficult. Lake-side you can view aquatic birds such as wattled jacanas, least grebes, herons and snail kites. Other animals around include monkeys, crocodiles, coatis and butterflies.
There's no bus access to the park. It's best to negotiate a taxi, rent a car or go with an organized tour. The center is located 1.6km from the entrance to Pipeline Rd. You must pass the town of Gamboa, at the end of Gaillard Rd, and follow the signs.
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Monumento Nacional Isla Barro Colorado
This lush island in the middle of Lago Gatún is the most intensively studied area in the neotropics. Formed by the damming of the Río Chagres and the creation of the lake, in 1923 Isla Barro Colorado (BCI) became one of the first biological reserves in the New World. Home to 1316 recorded plant species, 381 bird species and 120 mammal species, the island also contains a 59km network of marked and protected trails. It is managed by the Smithsonian Tropical Research Institute (www.stri.org), which administers a world-renowned research facility here. The island is open to a limited number of visitors on guided tours.

Isla Taboga
A tropical island with just one road and no traffic, Isla Taboga is a pleasant escape from the rush of Panama City, only 20km offshore. With the addition of an annual festival and boutique lodgings, it's growing as a destination. Named the ‘Island of Flowers,’ it is covered with sweet-smelling blossoms much of the year. First settled by the Spanish in 1515, the quaint village is also home to the second-oldest church in the Western Hemisphere. While there are better beaches elsewhere, this quick getaway is a salve for city living.
Fine sand beaches lie in either direction from the ferry dock. Walk left from the pier along the island's narrow main road to the village. After a fork, a high road leads to the church and a simple square. Further down the road, a beautiful public garden bares the statue of the island’s patroness, Nuestra Señora del Carmen. The road meanders a total of 5.2km, ending at the old US military installation atop the island’s highest hill, Cerro El Vigia.
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Archipiélago de las Perlas
Named for the large pearls found in its waters, the Archipiélago de las Perlas comprises 90 named islands and more than 100 unnamed islets, each surrounded by travel-magazine-worthy white-sand beaches and turquoise waters. Home to the palatial mansions of the rich and powerful, Isla Contadora is the best known. Popular US TV show Survivor filmed its 2003 season on an unnamed island in the chain. Real-estate developments, which would add luxury homes and resorts to areas with poor long-time settlements, are increasingly under fire.

El Valle
Officially known as El Valle de Antón, this picturesque town is nestled in the crater of a huge extinct volcano, and ringed by verdant forests and jagged peaks. El Valle is a popular weekend getaway for urban dwellers in need of fresh air and scenery and it's a North American retirement community. With an extensive network of trails, this is a superb place for walking, hiking or horseback riding. Nearby forests offer excellent birdwatching, and the valleys of El Valle are home to an impressive set of waterfalls as well as the increasingly rare golden frog.
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Chitré
One of Panama’s oldest settlements, the hot city of Chitré is hardly geared up for travellers, but it’s an agreeable stop on the way down to the peninsula's beaches. The capital of Herrera Province, it’s the largest city on the Península de Azuero, and the cultural and historic capital of the region.

Pedasi
Unpretentious and picturesque, Pedasí’s streets are lined with tiled colonials and leafy spaces. For years this sleepy retreat came to life only at festival times. But outsiders are discovering the big appeal of small-town life and wilderness beaches.
Snorkelling and diving around nearby islands, which are surrounded by large coral reefs, are major attractions. Sport fishers can land wahoo, tuna, mahi-mahi, amberjack and Pacific mackerel

Santa Catalina
Santa Catalina is one of Central America's top surf spots. The fishing village has a laid-back feel, with limited dining and non-existent nightlife. Enjoy it while it’s still remote, undeveloped and home to some seriously wicked surf.
Santa Catalina is the main springboard for day and overnight trips to Isla de Coiba and its national park.
The best waves are generally from December to April, though there's surf here year-round. Unlike the Caribbean, the Pacific offers fairly consistent sets, though a good swell will really give a boost to the surfing here. Be advised that many of the breaks in the area are over rocks, and can easily snap your board if you don’t know what you’re doing. Most of the accommodations in town rent boards and offer surfing lessons.
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Isla de Coiba
With the exception of Ecuador's Galápagos Islands and Isla de Coco in Costa Rica, few destinations off the Pacific coast of the Americas are as exotic as this national park covering the 503-sq-km Isla de Coiba. Although just 20km offshore in the Golfo de Chiriquí, Coiba is a veritable lost world of pristine ecosystems and unique fauna.
Isolated for the past century due to its status as a notorious penal colony, Coiba offers travellers the chance to hike through primary rainforest and snorkel and dive in a marine park with increasingly rare wildlife. However, with virtually no tourist infrastructure in place, you’re going to have to plan hard (and pay top dollar) to really see it up close.
Coiba was declared a national park in 1992, and in 2005 Unesco made it a World Heritage Site.

Santa Fé
This tiny mountain town 53km north of Santiago lies in the shadow of the continental divide. At an altitude of 500m, Sante Fé is cooler than the lowlands, and much of the surrounding forest is as it was when the Spanish founded the town in 1557.
Santa Fé has fresh, clean air and bucolic surroundings, yet it sees few foreign visitors. With the lush mountainsides, waterfalls, mountain streams and accessible swimming spots of Santa Fé National Park on the town's doorstep, this is an ideal destination for hikers, birdwatchers and those simply wanting to soak up the beauty of the highlands.

Chorro El Macho
The most famous waterfall in the El Valle area is 35m-high Chorro El Macho, which is located about 2km north of town; it's a 10-minute walk from the road and the entrance to the Canopy Adventure (www.canopytower.com/canopy-adventure) tour. Below the falls you’ll find a large rocky swimming pool surrounded by rainforest and fed by river water. There is also a series of short hiking trails that wend their way into the surrounding forest.
As its somewhat humorous name implies, this towering waterfall is quite forceful and makes for some excellent photographs. El Valle’s famed canopy tour offers an unforgettable aerial view of Chorro El Macho.

Santiago
The Sunset Coast is the name given to the west side of Península de Azuero facing the Gulfo de Montijo and Pacific Ocean. The sobriquet is accurate for it is the only place in Panama from which you can watch the sun go down from a beach. Here you'll find long, sandy beaches virtually empty of holiday makers, excellent surfing and the chance to see three species of turtles hatching. There are nature walks in the mangroves and Parque Nacional Cerro Hoya is just down the road.
The gateway to the Sunset Coast is Santiago, about 60km north of Mariato. Other important settlements include Malena and Torio, 11km and 15km south of Mariato respectively.

Playa Venao
A long, protected beach, Playa Venao – officially Venado but mispronounced and misspelled as 'Venao' – recently transformed from a wild beach to a 'go to' destination. Surfers lay the first claim to its waters; waves are consistent and break in both directions.
The Playa Venao turnoff is 33km southwest of Pedasí (2km past the turn for Resort La Playita). The Cañas–Pedasí bus passes by between 7am and 9am and makes the return journey between noon and 12:30pm and 2pm and 2:30pm. Confirm exact times with your hotel. You can also take a taxi from Pedasí.
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David
Although it feels more like an overgrown country town, David is Panama’s second-largest city and the capital of Chiriquí Province. It's more a center of agricultural industry than a cultural hub; you will be disappointed if you have museums, clubs and fine dining in mind. Yet, with foreign capital flowing into Chiriquí, David is rapidly gaining wealth and importance, and is poised to boom.
Halfway between Panama City and San José (Costa Rica), David is an important transportation hub.

Golfo de Chiriquí
The gem of the Chiriquí lowlands is the Golfo de Chiriquí, home to the Parque Nacional Marino Golfo de Chiriquí, a national marine park with an area of just over 147 sq km, protecting 25 islands, 19 coral reefs and abundant wildlife. The marine park also protects the 30-sq-km Isla Boca Brava, a lovely little island with hiking trails and beautiful outer beaches. It's home to howler monkeys, several types of nesting sea turtles and 280 recorded bird species. It is reached from the mainland village of Boca Chica.
Visitors can surf, kayak the calm interior waters, snorkel, watch wildlife under the rainforest canopy or fish for big game.

Playa Las Lajas
With one of the longest beaches in Panama, 12km-long palm-fringed Playa Las Lajas seems to stretch forever. The beach gathers serious crowds at weekends, but during the week it often lies empty, so you can savour the glorious expanse all by yourself.
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Boquete
Boquete is known for its cool, fresh climate and pristine natural surroundings. Flowers, coffee, vegetables and citrus fruits flourish in its rich soil, and the friendliness of the locals seems to rub off on everyone who passes through.
Boquete gained a deluge of expats after the American Association for Retired Persons (AARP) named it a top retirement spot. Until you see the gated communities and sprawling estates dotting the hillsides up close though, you'd be hard-pressed to see what the fuss is about. Downtown Boquete, with its broken pavements, dirty sidewalks and single span across the Río Caldera is not the idyllic mountain town many expect.
The surrounds, however, are another matter. Boquete is one of the country’s top destinations for outdoor-lovers. It's a hub for hiking, climbing, rafting, visiting coffee farms, soaking in hot springs, studying Spanish or canopy touring. And, of course, there’s nothing quite like a cup of locally grown coffee.
With its breathtaking vistas of mist-covered hills and nearby forests, Boquete is one of the most idyllic regions for hiking and walking. Several good paved roads lead out of town into the surrounding hills, passing coffee farms, fields, gardens and virgin forest. Although many visitors will be content with picturesque strolls along the river, the more ambitious can climb Volcán Barú. There are several entrances to the Parque Nacional Volcán Barú, but the most accessible trail starts near Boquete. It's possible to access the Sendero Los Quetzales from Boquete, though the trail is uphill from here; you’ll have an easier time if you start hiking from Cerro Punta above Volcán. Landslides have affected the trail in the past. Ask locals about conditions before heading out.

Parque Nacional Volcán Barú
This 143-sq-km national park is home to Volcán Barú, Panama’s only volcano and the dominant geographical feature of Chiriquí Province. Volcán Barú is no longer active, but it apparently once was, and counts not one but seven craters. At 3474m its summit, the highest point in Panama, affords views of both the Pacific and Caribbean coasts when clear.
For views from the summit of both the Pacific and Caribbean coasts, climbing Volcán Barú is a goal of many visitors. It might not be worth it in poor weather, as the going is strenuous and rough, and there is little to see in cloud cover. You can enter the national park on the eastern (Boquete) and western (Volcán) sides of the volcano.
The eastern summit access from Boquete is the easier, but it involves a strenuous uphill hike along a 13.5km road that goes from the park entrance – about 8km northwest of the center of town – to the summit. The road is paved to the ranger station and several kilometres beyond. If you drive or taxi as far up as possible and then walk the rest of the way, it takes about five or six hours to reach the summit from the park gate; walking from town would take another two or three hours each way. Best strategy is to hike at night, starting at 11pm or midnight and arriving at dawn to see the sunrise. But for this you'll need to hire a guide and be prepared for the cold. Another option is to spend the night. Camping will also allow you to be at the top during the morning, when the views are best.
The western access is just outside the town of Volcán, on the road to Cerro Punta. The rugged 16.5km-long road into the park (requiring a 4WD vehicle) goes only a short way off the main road to the foot of the volcano. The view of the summit and the nearby peaks from this entrance are impressive, and there’s a lovely loop trail that winds through secondary and virgin forest. The ascent takes eight to 10 hours.

Cerro Punta
Lying at 800m, this tranquil highland town is reminiscent of an alpine village. As you near Cerro Punta, the region takes on an almost European look, with meticulously tended vegetable plots and chalet-like houses with steep-pitched roofs. It's unsurprising to learn that a Swiss colony was founded here many decades ago and the hamlet just south is called Nueva Suiza (New Switzerland).
Visitors come to Cerro Punta primarily during the dry season (from mid-December to April) to access the two nearby national parks: Volcán Barú and La Amistad. The town itself makes a charming stop, however, especially since the area is known for its succulent strawberries, available much of the year at roadside stands.

Parque Internacional La Amistad
The 4000-sq-km Parque Internacional La Amistad, a favourite of hikers and naturalists alike, covers portions of both Chiriquí and Bocas del Toro Provinces. Although the lion's share of the park lies in the latter, the Chiriquí side, with its entrance at Las Nubes, is more accessible.
Most of the park is inaccessible terrain high up in the Talamanca mountains. It's worth making the trek, though, as the park is home to a recorded 90 mammal species and all six cat species. More than 450 bird species have also been recorded here, including quetzals and harpy eagles.

Isla Colón
The archipelago’s most developed island is home to the provincial capital of Bocas del Toro. From the mid-1990s, foreign investors flooded the island, creating hotels, restaurants and condos while infrastructure for water, trash and sewage lagged far behind. Today, the island, which runs on diesel, struggles to find a balance between satisfying development and serving community needs.
Although experienced divers accustomed to crystal-clear Caribbean diving may be disappointed with the archipelago – nearly 40 rivers discharging silt into the seas around the archipelago reduce visibility dramatically – it still has much to offer. The islands' emerald-green waters are home to the usual assortment of tropical species and with a little luck you might see barracuda, stingrays, dolphins and nurse sharks

Bocas del Toro Town
Colourful and full of Caribbean-style clapboard houses, Bocas del Toro (better known simply as Bocas town) was built by the United Fruit Company in the early 20th century. Today it is a relaxed community of West Indians, Latinos and resident gringos, with a friendly atmosphere that is contagious. It’s an easy place to get stuck into and an even easier one in which to linger.
Bocas serves as a convenient base for exploring the archipelago; taxis marinos (water taxis) can whisk you away to remote beaches and snorkeling sites for just a few dollars. The real allure here, though, is simply to be able to slow down and soak up the Caribbean vibes.

Playa Bluff
This lovely beach is pounded by intense waves. Though you wouldn’t want to get into the water here without a board, the soft, yellow sand and palm-fringed shores are pristine. The beach is 8km from Bocas town, alongside the road after you round Punta Bluff. It serves as a nesting area for sea turtles from May to September.

Boca del Drago
Boca del Drago, in the northwest of Isla Colón, is one of the best beaches on the island, though the surf can be rough at times. Just offshore from the beach is a patchy coral-and-sand sea bottom that offers good snorkelling when the sea is calm and the water clear.

Isla Carenero
A few hundred meters southeast from Isla Colón lies the often-overlooked Isla Carenero. This tiny island takes its name from ‘careening,’ which in nautical talk means to lean a ship on one side for cleaning or repairing. In October 1502, Columbus’ ships were careened and cleaned on this cay while the admiral recovered from a bellyache.
In recent times many hotels have been added, and nature isn't as wild here as it is on the more remote islands. Yet Carenero remains a nice alternative if you’re seeking peace and quiet. It's also a good place for an easily accessible, leisurely lunch.

Isla Bastimentos
Although it’s just a 10-minute boat ride from the town of Bocas del Toro, Isla Bastimentos is like a different world. Some travelers say this is their favorite island in their favorite part of Panama. The northwest coast of the island is home to palm-fringed beaches that serve as nesting grounds for sea turtles, while most of the northern and southern coasts consists of mangrove islands and coral reefs that lie within the boundaries of the Parque Nacional Marino Isla Bastimentos.
The main settlement on Bastimentos is Old Bank. It has a prominent West Indian population whose origins are in the banana industry. The island is also home to the Ngöbe-Buglé village of Quebrada Sal (Salt Creek).

Wizard Beach
The most beautiful beach on Isla Bastimentos is awash in powdery yellow sand and backed by thick vine-strewn jungle. It's connected to Old Bank via a wilderness path, which normally takes 20 minutes or so but can be virtually impassable after heavy rains. The path continues along the coast to Playa Segunda (Second Beach) and Red Frog Beach.

Red Frog Beach
Established in 1988, this 132-sq-km marine park was Panama's first. Protecting 130 islands of the Bocas del Toro archipelago, including the coral-fringed Cayos Zapatillas, and the wetlands in the center of Isla Bastimentos, the marine park is an important nature reserve for mangroves, monkeys, sloths, caiman, crocodile and 28 species of amphibians and reptiles.

Almirant
A clutch of stilted homes on the water, this unkempt village has seen better days, but it remains the springboard for the Archipiélago de Bocas del Toro so is always busy.
Taxi 25 runs a water shuttle to Bocas town (about US$6, 30 minutes); a taxi between the bus terminal and the dock should cost no more than US$1.
An air-conditioned bus to Changuinola (US$1.50) leaves every 15 minutes between 6am and 8pm and takes 45 minutes. Taxis to Changuinola (from US$20) can be bargained, particularly if you start your walk from the dock to the bus terminal.

Changuinola
Headquarters of the Chiriquí Land Company, the company that produces Chiquita bananas, Changuinola is a hot and rather dusty town surrounded by a sea of banana plantations. Although there is little reason to spend any time here, overland travellers linking to Costa Rica will have to pass through.

Colón
With its colonial grandeur crumbling and its neighbourhoods marginalized, Colón is the city that Panama forgot, in spite of vigorous development meant to court Caribbean cruise ships where the last whiff of prosperity was seen during the construction of the Panama Canal. On the city's edge, the Zona Libre (Free Zone) was created in 1948. Generating billions in annual commerce, little benefit seems to trickle down to locals. From close up, it's an island of materialism floating in a sea of unemployment and poverty.
Apart from the cruise port on the eastern side of the city and the bustling Zona Libre (free-trade zone), Colón has a dangerous reputation. Violent crime rates have lowered, but visitors should exercise caution when walking around, even during the day. Paseo de Washington, the renovated waterfront area, and Av Bolívar are safe to peruse by day. Always travel by taxi at night.
One of the best ways to fully appreciate the canal's expanse is to travel from Panama City to Colón along the historic Panama Railroad (www.panarail.com). Note that the Panama City terminus is actually located in the town of Corazal, a 15-minute drive from the capital.

Gatun Locks
The Gatún Locks, 10km south of Colón, raise southbound ships 29.5m from Caribbean waters to Lago Gatún. Just the size of them is mind-boggling.
A viewing stand opposite the control tower offers a prime view of the locks in action. The two-hour process is the most interesting stage of the canal transit and the English brochure clearly describes what you’re watching.
Once the ships pass through the locks, they travel 37km to the Pedro Miguel Locks, which lower southbound ships 9.3m to Lago Miraflores, a small body of water between two sets of Pacific locks. Ships are then lowered to sea level at the Miraflores Locks.
Buses to the Gatún Locks leave the Colón bus terminal hourly (20 minutes). If you arrive by taxi you can stop here before heading on to Gatún Dam – another 2km away. A taxi ride from Colón to the locks and dam and back should cost around US$60 per party, but agree on a price before leaving.

Portobelo
This Caribbean fishing village is so laid-back and languorous, it is incredible to ponder that it was once the greatest Spanish port in Central America. Mules once carried Peruvian gold and Oriental treasures to Panama City via the fortresses at Portobelo. Though English privateers destroyed them several times throughout their history, many of these atmospheric colonial fortresses still stand. Throughout the village, homes are situated among these atmospheric ruins.
Today, Portobelo’s residents scratch out a living fishing, tending crops or raising livestock. Though economically depressed, Portobelo is experiencing something of a cultural revival, with interest surging in Congo art and dancing. There are also nice beaches, accessed by boat, and worthwhile diving and snorkelling.
- Hire a water taxi to explore the awesome mangroves east of Isla Grande.
- Snorkel around Spanish cannons encrusted in the coral landscape.
- Kayak up the tranquil Río Claro.
- Watch a sunset from Fuerte San Fernando .
- Join a Congo dance workshop.

Isla Grande
Palm trees and white-sand beaches form the backdrop to this lovely little island, just 15km from Portobelo. A popular getaway for Panama City folk fleeing the urban grind, Isla Grande is an ideal setting for snorkelling, scuba diving or simply soaking up the island’s relaxed vibe. There are no roads, just a path along the eastern island perimeter. A few hundred people of African descent live on Grande, most of whom eke out a living from fishing and coconuts – you’ll get a taste of both when you sample the fine island cuisine.
- This 5km-long, 1.5km-wide island has two trails, one that loops the shoreline and another slippery cross-island trail. The lovely beaches on the northern side of the island can be reached by boat or on foot.
- Some fine snorkelling and dive sites are within a 10-minute boat ride of the island. For diving, contact a Portobelo-based operator. Diving is limited to between April and December, when seas are calmer.
- Boat taxis can also take you further afield to explore the mangroves east of Isla Grande or snorkelling off the coast of the nearby islets.

Metetí
Located 1km southeast of a police checkpoint, Metetí is the Darién's fastest-growing locality, with the best infrastructure in the region. The surroundings are being quickly deforested, though interesting ecolodges are found on the outskirts. Travelers come to link to La Palma and interior Darién via a scenic boat ride.

Yaviza
Part bazaar and part bizarre, this concrete village is the end of the road. Here the Interamericana grinds to a halt and beyond lies the famous Darién Gap. Rough edged and misshapen, it’s hardly a destination in its own right unless you have cockfighting in mind. For travellers, it is an essential check-in stop for entry to Parque Nacional Darién.

El Real de Santa María
Riverside El Real, also known as El Real de Santa María, dates from the conquistador days when it was merely a fort beside Río Tuira. The settlement prevented pirates from sailing upriver to plunder Santa María, where gold from the Cana mines was stored. Today, El Real is one of the largest towns in the Darién, though it’s still very much a backwater settlement.
El Real is the last sizable settlement before the national park. Those heading up to Rancho Frío should either hire a local guide or be part of a tour – the Ministerio de Ambiente will not let you proceed unescorted. Before your arrival, send a letter of intent to SENAFRONT and contact the Panama City office of the Ministerio de Ambiente to pay the park entry fee and lodging fees.

Parque Nacional Darién
Parque Nacional Darién is the most ecologically diverse land-based national park in Central America, but with its serious risks and poisonous snakes, it isn’t for all. Yet as a destination it is fascinating and fulfilling – provided you take the necessary precautions and are prepared.
The jungle is an ideal hideout for rogue elements and a transit point for illegal migrants. The Panamanian police take defending this area very seriously and it is unwise to go against their recommendations. Established routes are recommended both for your safety and for legal reasons. The police have been known to detain those on unauthorized routes and suspect them of illegal activity – even if they are with a guide.
The Darién is also definitely not cheap. Travelers should make a careful budget, noting that even those who loathe taking tours generally do so here. Decide whether going with an independent guide and paying all the fuel and food costs separately will really work out to your advantage – especially since the cost of fuel can be astronomical. Those who contract a local guide should speak Spanish, otherwise the whole endeavour is prone to frustrating misunderstandings. Keep your baggage to a minimum on any jungle trek. Insect repellent, sunblock, a hat and rain gear are essential. Food can only be found in the few towns; it's not available at the ranger stations. Bring some drinking water and a means of purifying water. Visit during the dry season (mid-December through mid-April); otherwise, you’ll be slogging your way through thick mud and swatting at moth-size mosquitoes.

La Palma
The provincial capital of Darién Province, La Palma is a one-street town located where the wide Río Tuira meets the Golfo de San Miguel. Pastel stilt houses lord over the muddy waterfront, a scene abuzz with commerce, bars and evangelist messages.
Most travellers pass through La Palma to take a boat ride to somewhere else, like the Ancon nature reserve and lodge at Reserva Natural Punta Patiño or the Emberá villages lining the banks of the Río Sambú. Every facility of interest to the traveller is located on the main street, which is within 300m of the airstrip. There's a bank, a hospital and a police station as well as a few hotels, some bars and several food stands. Those who intend to go further inland should talk to the police here first.

Reserva Natural Punta Patiño
On the southern shore of the Golfo de San Miguel, 25km from La Palma, is this private 263-sq-km wildlife preserve owned by Ancon and managed by the organization’s for-profit arm, Ancon Expeditions. It contains species-rich primary and secondary forest, and is one of the best places in Panama to spot harpy eagles. Even if the big bird doesn't show, there's a good chance of seeing everything from three-toed sloths to capybaras, the world's largest rodent.
The only way to reach the preserve is by boat or plane. Landing on the tiny strip of ocean-side grass that’s called a runway in these parts is definitely part of the experience.
The Ancon Expeditions tour includes the round-trip airfare between Panama City and Punta Patiño, lodging, food and activities. This can also be combined with a trip up the Río Mogué to the Emberá village of Mogué and a guided hike to a harpy eagle’s nest. Punta Patiño is also a destination on Ancon’s highly recommended two-week Darién Explorer Trek.
Independent travellers can hire boats in La Palma to reach Punta Patiño. Notify Ancon Expeditions in advance to reserve a cabin.

Sambú
Urban by Darién standards, Sambú has an airstrip, a hospital and a pay phone. Given the ease of flying in here, it makes a good launching point for visiting riverside Emberá and Wounaan communities and absorbing the slow jungle pace.
From Sambú, visitors can plan enjoyable trips to Puerto Indio (with permission from the Emberá and Wounaan) and visit petroglyphs or mangrove forests. Bocaca Verano is a lagoon with crocodiles and prolific birdlife. Local guide Lupicinio, found in front of Sambú Hause hotel, guides hiking excursions to see harpy eagles and tours to Bocaca Verano in the dry season.

Comarca de Guna Yala
A tropical archipelago with one island for every day of the year. With white sand and waving palms, these Caribbean islands cheat no one’s version of paradise. The Comarca is home to the Guna, the first group in Latin America to gain indigenous autonomy. Though they have had contact with Europeans since Columbus sailed these waters in 1502, clan identity is paramount, and many make tenacious efforts to preserve a traditional way of life.
In 2009 the road to Cartí was completed, making the region more accessible than ever and opening up options for day trips. Still off the beaten track, this narrow, 226km-long strip on the Caribbean coast stretches from the Golfo de San Blás to the Colombian border. Community islands are acre-sized cays packed with bamboo huts, livestock and people. Visitors often prefer the more remote outer islands with few inhabitants. Most areas require landing fees.
When visiting the Comarca de Guna Yala, consider how your visit may affect the community and be aware of your surroundings and remain sensitive about your impact.
Most lodgings offer complete packages, where a fixed price gets you a room, three meals a day and boat rides to neighbouring islands for swimming, snorkelling and lounging on the beach. If you seek community life, you can also arrange visits to more populated islands. Before swimming off the shores of a heavily populated island, consider that all waste goes here, unfiltered in most cases.
Snorkelling is good in places, but many coral reefs are badly damaged. You can often rent snorkelling equipment from your hotel; serious snorkelers should bring their own gear. Jaunts to hike the mainland jungles are arranged with a guide. Most travellers are content with simply soaking up the Caribbean sun.
Carefully selecting your accommodations on the islands is key, since their remoteness makes it difficult to change your mind. Camping on an uninhabited island isn’t wise, because you run the risk of encountering drug traffickers in the night. The Guna do not allow the Panamanian coast guard or US antidrug vessels to operate in the archipelago, so the uninhabited islands are occasionally used by Colombian traffickers running cocaine up the coast.
There is only a handful of lodgings on the islands and none on the mainland. Most of these are basic but comfortable. Since there are almost no restaurants, each lodging provides meals for guests. Quality varies, as some of the fishing stocks have been depleted, but there is always rice and a healthy supply of fresh coconuts.